i desided (after talking to members and using peoples ideas) to go premix using the stock OMP to run pre mix.(cmsprofessor) a forum member had this good idea to tap into the OMP instead of blocking it off and runing pre mix from the tank.you guys might have seen a thread like this before but i am just learning about it,so i just wanna know what you guys think?

i just want some feedback on this MOD.

 

Grr..I can't remember the website. Search around all the rotary aftermarket websites - there is an add-on to the OMP that lets you add a premix tank somewhere in the engine bay. A lot easier to bolt this on, rather then tapping into the OMP..this also seems a lot more reliable.

 

Wierd, I am not really understanding why but ok...

 

Well, 2-stroke oil apparently lubes the seals better then just regular oil, as it does not do a complete burn - regular dino oil does. A "film" is left on the seals after each combustion, rather then none from regular oil.

 

plus you can use synthetic engine oil without worrying about anything not burning off, and crudding up the engine.

 

Real World Solutions, Inc

i know this web site,but like most of us rotary fanatics "I AM BROKE" so i gotta take other alternatives.

 

Yeah, there's a Rotary Aviation site that has an aftermarket item. That said, I'd never pay money for that item if all I had to do is drill a hole in the existing omp body and have a feed line to it. You have to make a blockoff plate on the mating side of the omp to block off the original oil passage also. Been there, done two cars this way. Using two stroke oil in a reservoir to feed it.

The reservoir does not have to be elecated either. The omp is a PUMP. Proven that also on another thread. This site: https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...highlight=PUMP

Rotary Aviation one cost about 88 bucks.

 

Have you ever looked at a 2-stroke engine before? I mean...carbon still forms.

 

But....when premixing in a rotary compared to not; the difference is night and day.

 

with a little money save up and time this is the best route, in case you dont like it always can go back to stock with no more mods and is easy this way, IMO
http://www.rotaryaviation.com/oil_in...p_adaptors.htm

 

S5's had an electrical pump correct? so woudl u use the electrical pump adapter that the above links says is onyl for 4rd gen engines?

 

never heard about this. but i think this is a great mod.

 

Making the OMP draw from another source should not have anything to do with how it is metered - electrically (S5) or mechanically (S4). I have a 91 but the engine is from an 88 so I am using the mechanical pump. I now have nearly 3,000mi on it using this modification. The idea is not mine, it comes straight from a Yamaha dirt bike (circa 1970) when they used a pump driven by the throttle cable to inject oil from a remote reservoir. Two stroke oils are designed to lubricate and then burn with little or no ash deposit unlike four stroke oils. You are freed up to use what oil you feel is the best for each situation. I use Royal Purple in the crank and Golden Spectro for the injection. The cost of the modification is minimal since the components can either be fabricated or, as in the reservoir, bought at the local junk yard. BTW your work looks good as long as there is absolutely no leakage around the fitting or the cover plate. Inspect the area often until you are certain of its integrity.

 

Another thought. While you have the pump off, replace all the O-rings as they will take a set and become brittle with heat, age, and chemical exposure. Use the Nitrile O-rings as they stand up better and are not that much more in cost.

 

The reason it is different for electrical and mechanical pumps is because the adapter fits between the pump and the block, and the pumps are differenct sizes.

 

You can modify either type of pump. It just depends on which one is on your engine. The modification merey sucks the oil from another location and has no effect on how much or at what rate the oil is injected.

 

why do all that
leave the stock system intact.....

 

well the whole point of doing this mod is to avoid the rotors from crusting over time

i have seen rotors converd in black crap,so i wanna see what this would do...

 

what this would do is give you a placebo effect and waste a bunch of your time for no accomplishment....

 

if everyone had that attitude... we would all have boring, stock FC's!!!!

 

This is correct, but there's a very important point that nobody ever seems to mention. There is not much point in switching an old motor over to an alternative source of internal lubrication (either pre-mix or OMP with remote supply) in an effort to stop "crusting", because the damage has already been done. You're not going to suddenly make things better because you've stopped injecting crankcase oil after 100,000+ miles with the stock set-up.

Personally I think this is an excellent mod, but if you're doing it to keep the engine internals clean then you might as well wait until you need a rebuilt and you can start with clean engine.

 

When I first did the modification it was on a fresh rebuild. I'll let you know how clean after 100k or so. If it is anything like my dirtbike you only had to wipe the top of the piston not scrape an 1/16' of carbon. Time will tell.

 

Frankly speaking, that carbon build up on the rotor faces isn't all due to the omp injecting oil. Running too rich causes it also in my humble opinion. Plus I'd suspect a good number of the engines that get rebuilt are rebuilt only after they fail and have had the oil control rings in the failed mode for a good number of miles.

Have you ever noticed the threads on this forum that say *why's my car smoke when I rev it up to five grand in neutral?*. His oil control rings have given up long before he noitced that smoke.

 

Got a source for all the o-rings in the OMP?

 

Mazda dealer.