Ok I used Permatex Ultra Black on the First PLate I madebut I t started to leak oi after saome use. The thing is the first one I made was very thin so maybe it was just the thickness of the metal. I have made a new one that is still kinda thin comared to what you all have told me it is only 1/16 of an inch thick. I could not find anything thicker than that at the local harware stores.I will start the car soon in about 25 minutes the RVT has had about 12 hours to set up if it leaks whould it be because of the thickness of the plate or the failure of the gasket maker? I need to know because I go to school on monday and I need my FC back. If RVT is no good what other gasket makers are there available?

 

Both What probably happens is the plate flexes enough to 'tear' the gasket maker apart. I used I think a 1/8" plate (maybe a bit thinner) for the OMP blockoff, and permatex ultra blue (LOTS of it ) It works great! This is probably a REALLY dumb question, but you did use the 3 bolts to bolt down the plate, right? (sorry if that seems obvious )

-Manolis

 

There are only two bolts on my OMP. I am using ULTRA BLACK should I try ULTRA BLUE?

 

I think Ultra Black is supposed to be better actually. Just goop it up big time and give it another shot If it leaks, then try a thicker plate (1/8") and lots of RTV. That WILL fix it

 

yeah I think it worked this time I just need to double check for leaks before I drive it for more than 5 miles. I already tested it once but I am not sure yet. I will start looking for some 1/8" steel if it does not woik. Thanks for the help.

 

If you can't find thicker alum sheets, try making 2 or 3 plates and stacking them. Also, try looking in the phone book for metal shops in your area. That's where I bought my 1/4" alum sheet, b/c the hardware stores only carried the 1/8" stuff.

 

Took the words out of my mouth. LoL, yeah, id just stack them up man, and be done with it, im sure it'll be fine. As for the black RTV, sure.. i use it all the time. As a matter of fact, dont tell anyone, but im just using straight black RTV for a water pump to block gasket (no gasket in there at all) and its held up for .... ****... months now. Good luck.

 

Guess what's sealing off my water pump --> engine block junction (no gasket there either)... lol

Permatex Blue baby... ****'s awesome

 

Stop wasting time with aluminium plats that are way too thin. Use at leat 4MM steel, and good black or grey RTV sealant. Of course, you could also just put the metering oil pump back on...

 

oh it was not aluminum. I got stell. I could not find any aluminum. It worked anyways so it is all good.

 

Why would you want to keep the OMP if your remixing? You make no sense.

 

Its the lazy syndrom. There are more supporters and users of pre-mix that know what they are talking about and have torn down and built a lot of engine than those who say the MOP is better. I may not be a rotor god but I know pre-mix is great.

 

Why don't you just get some gasket material and cut out your own gasket instead of messing with all the RTV?

And Aaron’s right about the thickness. Needs to be at least 4mm steel or 4mm sheet alum.

 

Give the 2 surfaces a real good rough up with some v-coarse grade sandpaper and try to punch some dents/scratches into the pieces that the gasket has to bond to, this will help it seal and stay.

 

Oh and you NEED to use thicker metal, but you know that already

 

This man is a frickin' genius. It's good to see someone thinking beyond auto parts and hardware stores for a change.

Always look for 3-4mm aluminium plate for block-off plates. Steel is overkill and requires far more effort to work with hand tools than aluminium. Yeah I'm lazy...

 

Stop premixing, use the metering oil pump. Thought it was clear...

 

No leaks here.

 

What a dumb thing to say.. even after so many have proof that premixing is way better than using motor oil to burn because its not even made to burn and when its burned leaves behind a lot of desposits.

 

I used mega copper rtv on mine, simply becuase its an exhaust sealer and holds heat better. I used black the first time i did my FD, notice i said first time, the heat caused it to blow out of a spot, or lack of sealent. I re-did them with the copper, never had another problem-

 

As far as I am concerned, there is no solid proof that premixing is superior. There have been no official studies done, and most of what is said is hersay. In fact, an engine that I recently pulled apart had been running premix since it was built...Well, you know those carbon deposits that everyone says premix cures? Yep, still there. Rotors completely caked with carbon. Even the characteristic "clean" spot in the center of the apex was visible, leading me to believe that this is caused by the spark plug, and NOT the oil injector as many people think.

So get some real world experience before you advise people to modify a key component of their engine's lubrication system. And try not to call those who have had siginficant experience in these areas "dumb" when they have VERY good reasons to recommend that most people stick with the stock system....In fact, my very own engine, with 250K on it, run on the stock MOP for that entire time, has beautiful rotor housings. No scratching, scuffing or other major wear is visible, aside from the normal "corner seal" mark. Rotors were of course coated in carbon, but they always are...

 

As far as I am concerned there is no proof that the MOP system is good at all either. Its been explained why mada would not ask people to use pre-mix time and time again. People are lazy as **** everywhere and barely change their oil and flush coolant on time do you think they would add two stroke oil to a container as often as we do to the tank? I think not. That would make the Rx-7 line and any other rotary engine less desirable to people over others so they HAD TO find another way to keep the engine lubed up. Unless there is some data at mazda to disprove this and that says MOP with 4 stroke is better you do not have ANY proof of anything that says the MOP system is better or provides more lubrication than pre-mix. In fact drop for drop pre-mix HAS TO lubricate better because of the simple fact that with a 128:1 ratio there is well over twice the amount of lubricant in the cumbustion chamber than with the MOP.


Santiago

 

Well, you don't have any proof that premix is superior...So there we go...

 

I guess anyone here who thinks that premix leaves no deposits has never worked on a 2 stoke engine. Most dirtbike and jetski motors i've seen have had some pretty good carbon build up. And honestly both methods, premix and omp, achieve the same goal, so as long as the oild gets where it needs to be there is no problem, My car has been driven hard with the omp in place for 100,000 miles and everythign works great and compression is still 115 everywhere, seems that this omp works just fine

 

Icemark, don't you sell block off plates?