2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

used 5w-30

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Old Feb 23, 2008 | 11:51 AM
  #1  
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used 5w-30

So the oil place used 5w-30 on my car. Would that be the reason my guage shows like 15 psi on the guage at idle? It goes to around 25 when driving.
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Old Feb 23, 2008 | 12:17 PM
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Well if it was fine before the oil change then I would go back to a 10-30 or 20-50. Also hopefully they used an OEM filter.
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Old Feb 23, 2008 | 12:29 PM
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from my expierience rx-7s don't much care what oil you use, and older engine or a good one in a hot climate will like thicker oil. But there was a guy on here who modded his OMP to run 2 stroke oil from a tank and ran 0w synthetic in the crank and said it ran better. also i'm not sure if i'll get killed by people for saying it but i like the kn filter for out cars even better than stock i always had a little more pressure with them, whatever you do don.t get a fram filter lol
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Old Mar 7, 2008 | 05:14 PM
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Found out it was my sender.
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Old Mar 7, 2008 | 05:22 PM
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totallimmortal from my expierience rx-7s don't much care what oil you use, and older engine or a good one in a hot climate will like thicker oil. But there was a guy on here who modded his OMP to run 2 stroke oil from a tank and ran 0w synthetic in the crank and said it ran better. also i'm not sure if i'll get killed by people for saying it but i like the kn filter for out cars even better than stock i always had a little more pressure with them, whatever you do don.t get a fram filter lol


Don't get a FRAM filter, why? Does it leave sediments in the oil or something? I've never heard of this.
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Old Mar 7, 2008 | 05:26 PM
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Originally Posted by SleepeR1st
Don't get a FRAM filter, why? Does it leave sediments in the oil or something? I've never heard of this.
Poor construction, poor filtering ability, oil bypasses filter when even moderately dirty, poor anti-drain back construction (and if you buy the cheap one- no anti-drain back) that doesn't seal well and allows some if not all drain back.
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Old Mar 7, 2008 | 05:28 PM
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Icemark, any comments on STP? I've heard it was bad, but I don't know why.

I stick with stock Mazda OEM or Nippon OEM.
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Old Mar 7, 2008 | 05:33 PM
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What's good recommended autozone off the shelf filter than?
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Old Mar 7, 2008 | 05:37 PM
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I only use Mazda OEM or Nippon filters for the last 20+ years. Every couple of years I cut one one and look at the construction just to make sure they still are decent filters.

I have not opened either one up, but supposedly the K&N and Mobil1 filters are very good as well.

But the OEM Mazda and Toyota OEM filters are night and day better than 99% of the other filters out there for any amount of money. Better construction, better filtering, better anti-drainback... just better filters.
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Old Mar 7, 2008 | 05:42 PM
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Sweet deal, awesome reports Icemark!
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Old Mar 7, 2008 | 06:22 PM
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how about the bosch filter?
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Old Mar 7, 2008 | 07:30 PM
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ive heard the napa gold filters are a better designed filter... word of mouth
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Old Mar 7, 2008 | 07:34 PM
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From: Rohnert Park CA
Originally Posted by DREYKO
how about the bosch filter?
The bosch is just a Purolator


Here is a quick comparison between construction of most popular filter types including the Denso (Nippon/ Nippon Denso):

http://www.knizefamily.net/minimopar...rs/toyota.html

and the old flying Miata test from the late 90's:

http://www.teammiata.com/libs/oil-filters.htm

and Russ Kinses opinion of the Fram Extra Guard:
Years ago Fram was a quality filter manufacturer. Now their standard filter (the radioactive-orange cans) is one of the worst out there. It features cardboard end caps for the filter element that are glued in place. The rubber anti-drainback valve seals against the cardboard and frequently leaks, causing dirty oil to drain back into the pan. The bypass valves are plastic and are sometimes not molded correctly, which allows them to leak all the time. The stamped-metal threaded end is weakly constructed and it has smaller and fewer oil inlet holes, which may restrict flow. I had one of these filters fail in my previous car. The filter element collapsed and bits of filter and glue were circulating through my system. The oil passage to the head became blocked and the head got so hot from oil starvation that it actually melted the vacuum lines connected to it as well as the wires near it.
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Old Mar 7, 2008 | 07:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Phantomkid
ive heard the napa gold filters are a better designed filter... word of mouth
Napa gold are wix filters. Good stuff.

I prefer oem tho
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Old Mar 7, 2008 | 08:00 PM
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You're in Hawaii, right? It's WAY to hot there to use that low of a weight. 10-40 or 20-50 would probably suit your needs well.
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Old Mar 7, 2008 | 09:31 PM
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Ignoring the false oil pressure reading. I wouldn't worry about 5w-30 at all. The only big difference between 5 and 10 w is viscosity when cold. They are intended to both act as a 30 weight when warm, but the 5 remains thinner at low engine temps for better lubrication until warmed up.

I would have gotten nervous too, though.

Originally Posted by Icemark
The bosch is just a Purolator
According to BITOG and what I've seen, bosch isn't purolator. Bosch is made by champion labs in the US. K&N and Mobil1 are also made by champion labs... and certainly not least surprising the brand I use, walmart supertech filters are also champion filters.
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Old Mar 7, 2008 | 09:34 PM
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Wow, I didn't know this about the FRAM's. I guess I'll have to stash up on OEM Mazda filters then.
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Old Mar 7, 2008 | 11:04 PM
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I never really believed the hype about FRAM filters until reading this thread.
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/best-oil-filters-734289/
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