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-   2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) (https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/)
-   -   used 5w-30 (https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/used-5w-30-a-732911/)

Houstonderk 02-23-08 11:51 AM

used 5w-30
 
So the oil place used 5w-30 on my car. Would that be the reason my guage shows like 15 psi on the guage at idle? It goes to around 25 when driving.

freemanrx7 02-23-08 12:17 PM

Well if it was fine before the oil change then I would go back to a 10-30 or 20-50. Also hopefully they used an OEM filter.

totallimmortal 02-23-08 12:29 PM

from my expierience rx-7s don't much care what oil you use, and older engine or a good one in a hot climate will like thicker oil. But there was a guy on here who modded his OMP to run 2 stroke oil from a tank and ran 0w synthetic in the crank and said it ran better. also i'm not sure if i'll get killed by people for saying it but i like the kn filter for out cars even better than stock i always had a little more pressure with them, whatever you do don.t get a fram filter lol

Houstonderk 03-07-08 05:14 PM

Found out it was my sender.

SleepeR1st 03-07-08 05:22 PM


totallimmortal from my expierience rx-7s don't much care what oil you use, and older engine or a good one in a hot climate will like thicker oil. But there was a guy on here who modded his OMP to run 2 stroke oil from a tank and ran 0w synthetic in the crank and said it ran better. also i'm not sure if i'll get killed by people for saying it but i like the kn filter for out cars even better than stock i always had a little more pressure with them, whatever you do don.t get a fram filter lol


Don't get a FRAM filter, why? Does it leave sediments in the oil or something? I've never heard of this. :Wconfused

Icemark 03-07-08 05:26 PM


Originally Posted by SleepeR1st (Post 7952612)
Don't get a FRAM filter, why? Does it leave sediments in the oil or something? I've never heard of this. :Wconfused

Poor construction, poor filtering ability, oil bypasses filter when even moderately dirty, poor anti-drain back construction (and if you buy the cheap one- no anti-drain back) that doesn't seal well and allows some if not all drain back.

Roen 03-07-08 05:28 PM

Icemark, any comments on STP? I've heard it was bad, but I don't know why.

I stick with stock Mazda OEM or Nippon OEM.

SleepeR1st 03-07-08 05:33 PM

What's good recommended autozone off the shelf filter than?

Icemark 03-07-08 05:37 PM

I only use Mazda OEM or Nippon filters for the last 20+ years. Every couple of years I cut one one and look at the construction just to make sure they still are decent filters.

I have not opened either one up, but supposedly the K&N and Mobil1 filters are very good as well.

But the OEM Mazda and Toyota OEM filters are night and day better than 99% of the other filters out there for any amount of money. Better construction, better filtering, better anti-drainback... just better filters.

SleepeR1st 03-07-08 05:42 PM

Sweet deal, awesome reports Icemark! :icon_tup:

DREYKO 03-07-08 06:22 PM

how about the bosch filter?

Phantomkid 03-07-08 07:30 PM

ive heard the napa gold filters are a better designed filter... word of mouth

Icemark 03-07-08 07:34 PM


Originally Posted by DREYKO (Post 7952789)
how about the bosch filter?

The bosch is just a Purolator


Here is a quick comparison between construction of most popular filter types including the Denso (Nippon/ Nippon Denso):

http://www.knizefamily.net/minimopar...rs/toyota.html

and the old flying Miata test from the late 90's:

http://www.teammiata.com/libs/oil-filters.htm

and Russ Kinses opinion of the Fram Extra Guard:

Years ago Fram was a quality filter manufacturer. Now their standard filter (the radioactive-orange cans) is one of the worst out there. It features cardboard end caps for the filter element that are glued in place. The rubber anti-drainback valve seals against the cardboard and frequently leaks, causing dirty oil to drain back into the pan. The bypass valves are plastic and are sometimes not molded correctly, which allows them to leak all the time. The stamped-metal threaded end is weakly constructed and it has smaller and fewer oil inlet holes, which may restrict flow. I had one of these filters fail in my previous car. The filter element collapsed and bits of filter and glue were circulating through my system. The oil passage to the head became blocked and the head got so hot from oil starvation that it actually melted the vacuum lines connected to it as well as the wires near it.

fc steve 03-07-08 07:37 PM


Originally Posted by Phantomkid (Post 7952979)
ive heard the napa gold filters are a better designed filter... word of mouth

Napa gold are wix filters. Good stuff.

I prefer oem tho :)

MmSadda 03-07-08 08:00 PM

You're in Hawaii, right? It's WAY to hot there to use that low of a weight. 10-40 or 20-50 would probably suit your needs well.

alexdimen 03-07-08 09:31 PM

Ignoring the false oil pressure reading. I wouldn't worry about 5w-30 at all. The only big difference between 5 and 10 w is viscosity when cold. They are intended to both act as a 30 weight when warm, but the 5 remains thinner at low engine temps for better lubrication until warmed up.

I would have gotten nervous too, though.


Originally Posted by Icemark (Post 7952985)
The bosch is just a Purolator

According to BITOG and what I've seen, bosch isn't purolator. Bosch is made by champion labs in the US. K&N and Mobil1 are also made by champion labs... and certainly not least surprising the brand I use, walmart supertech filters are also champion filters.

KhanArtisT 03-07-08 09:34 PM

Wow, I didn't know this about the FRAM's. I guess I'll have to stash up on OEM Mazda filters then.

Soma 03-07-08 11:04 PM

I never really believed the hype about FRAM filters until reading this thread.
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/best-oil-filters-734289/


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