I was in a local hardware/farm supply store this week that will measure your drive belt(s) and match it as closely as they can. They offer two replacement types - good 'ol regular rubber and Kevlar.


It was explained to me that:

a) the rubber belt is unremarkable, and not intended for higher-revving engines. It's intended for things like lawnmowners.

b) the Kevlar belt will handle higher-revving engines, but it will not stretch. When it fails, it'll just break and that's the end of that.


The prospect of using an alt belt that will just up and snap without warning doesn't sound very good, but otoh if I can get a long life out of it (like 2 years,) I won't especially mind one day having to do a roadside belt change when it does go.


I've searched the forum, and Googled a bit and haven't found any comments at all on this other than:

from a boating newsgroup.


Penny for your thoughts?

 

I think you should test it and tell us how it goes.

 

how much $ for a replacement?

-Jacob

 

why not just get a normal belt from an auto parts store?

pat

 

Gates from dealership: about $10, but my car likes to eat them.
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/gates-belts-share-your-pain-53674/


Goodyear and other AEM: $7- $10. I've heard bad things about the Gatorback in particular.


Importing a Bando: last time I did that the bill came out to $60. For one belt.


The regular rubber one from the store: $5


The Kevlar: $9



It's not the money. It's the reliability/lifespan. So I'm asking questions.

 

I say look at the experiance that these boaters have had with it. If you like the risk (possibility of breakage as opposed to rubber, better or worse) as compared to stock, then go for whatever you gut instinct is.

NOW WHERE'S MY DAMN PENNIE!!!!!

 

It's in the mail. But by the time it gets there it's going to cost you $60. Spend the penny wisely.

 

Kevlar baby They are all the rage for newer cars like the Evo (GReddy kevlar timing belts). Longevity is the only advantage - how much longer is debatable.

 

ANyone ever use a chain? Or a timing belt? I want to do that now...

I would say go with the Kevlar one...buy a kevlar one and a rubber on to toss in the bin for an emergency belt. Let us know how they work/fit/last.

 

Dayton. get a good dayton belt for $20, and dont worry. they come with a lifetime guarantee IIRC.

pat

 

piston engine suxor when the timing belt breaks

 

Only if it's an interference based engine.

FWIW, my friends and I all run Gatorbacks on our GTP/Regal GSs for our superchargers (5-10 of us). No problems in somewhere around a collective 100K miles. These are high stress situations; imperfect pulley alignments and turning roots superchargers to 15-18K RPM.

 

Tweak-it markets a gilmer belt drive for our cars... (A Gilmer belt is a toothed belt like a timing belt). You can't run PS or AC with it... but I'm seriously looking into getting one

 

That quote I posted is the only comment I found on it.



I figure I'll give it a go. Look for my next post here, from a roadside at midnight in a snowstorm.




Pennie? In the oven.

Penny? It's become your fine and is in the Bad Spelling Jar (beside bigmack000's college fund.)

 

I second the dayton.... use the gold.

Great belts.

 

I quickly skimmed the other, and I had not seen this mentioned.

If you are breaking belts constantly, then there is some other problem. I spent years building go-karts and such, so I know what kills belts. By far, over tensioning is the worst. You should have a half inch of deflection at the longest part of the belt. It should not take extreme effort to get this deflection (1 finger should be enough). Your pulleys need to be clean and free of rust and paint. Also important is alignment. If you are more then a few MM off, friction will build heat up VERY quickly and you'll snap the belt. If the spacer on the alternator is installed wrong, you can get misalignment (though this takes effort).

 

I sure have seen a lot of threads like this lately. My answer has pretty much been the same as AaronCake's.