lonetlan

I'm going to to buy an 87 rx7 from Tulsa, and drive it to Claremore. The drive from the owners house to my house is about 45 minutes. The rx7 has a leak in the clutch line. My question is will I make it? Keep in mind, I learned how to drive manual yesterday so I'm not smooth.

Evil Aviator

No, you will not make it. However, the problem is easy to fix if it is limited to the clutch slave cylinder or its flex line. You can order the parts from Mazdatrix or your local generic auto shop and then take the parts with you when you go to pick up the car.
http://www.mazdatrix.com/f-hydral.htm

lonetlan

is it soo easy that I will be able to fix it at the owners house? How fast can mazdatrix ship a ss clutchline?

importtuner137

You should be able to make it, assuming you can make it to the freeway or whatever.

But, I do recoomend buying some DOT4 brake fluid and taking it with you. You shouldn't need a whole lot so buy a small bottle.

I ran my RX like that untill I fixed the master cylinder after that no problems. If your clutch won't work though, just pull over pop the hood fill up the clutch and pump fluid back into it. Make sure the Master is full before you go and when you're pumping the clutch full of fluid again, make sure the engine is off it'll save a little clutch life.

It'll either be leaking out of the Master or Slave cylinders, both if you're lucky.

After you fix whatever the problem is, make sure you bleed the clutch line at the Slave Cylinder, that's the one attatched to the tranny bell housing. you'll need some 1/4 inch drive extensions... And, if I remember right it's a 10mm socket.

Best of luck to you!

Evil Aviator

It will just take a couple of minutes to fix if it is the line or the slave cylinder. It will take a lot longer if it is something else like the master cylinder.

If the part is in stock they can ship 1-day or 2-day if necessary, but they are not open on the weekends. You would need to contact them for a more accurate estimate.

You could also check your local generic auto parts store to see if they have any in stock, or how long they could get you the part. However, I would personally stick with the nicer stainless steel hose from Mazdatrix.

Note that the TurboII and non-turbo slave cylinder have the mounting holes in different positions, so if you need one be careful when ordering so you don't get the wrong part.

Mmm, I think he is going to kill himself if he tries to make it. It's not worth the risk IMO.

Circuit Theory

iTrader: (52)

if you know someone that can drive a manual fairly well you can crank it over in 3rd gear and try and not stop all the way back ahhaah or take someone that can rev match for shifting. Your best bet is to just get it towed.

lonetlan

i watched a video on rev matching and it didnt look that hard. its just really fast!

jackhild59

iTrader: (7)

Bad Idea, but whatever. Claremore isn't that far, get a tow or find a friend with a pick-mup and trailer.

The bleeder is an 8mm.

lonetlan

I'm going to go to autozone tomorrow real early and see if I can just buy a new line and fluid. Another question, do I use transmission fluid(redline50w90) for the clutch or is there a different type? Honestly, all is appreciated. I thought it would take until 12am like in the readme, but wow, this is awesome how fast I'm getting help

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

Haha, no don't put 90W gear oil in the clutch reservoir. Buy some DOT3 or 4 brake fluid.

Evil Aviator

The clutch fluid is just DOT-3 or DOT-4 brake fluid, and any brand should work fine. If you want to get some brake fluid from Autozone that you can also use in your brake system then you may want to pay a couple of extra bucks for Castrol LMA. I used LMA with good results for many years of street/autocross driving before I stepped up to race-level ATE Super Blue / TYP 200.

Also, the Red Line product that you should use in the transmission is "MT-90", which is rated at 75W-90, not 50W-90.

lonetlan

DOT3, cus when i searched, that is what i came up with in the archive for tune ups, is there dot3 royal purple or something like that i can get? i don't want to look like an idiot in public again

Evil Aviator

DOT-3 is a slightly inferior standard compared to DOT-4.

Yes, you can get very expensive brake fluid like Castrol SRF if you wish, but I don't see much point in doing so. The really good stuff only has an advantage in high-heat environments like full track racing, it is very expensive at $40-$75 per liter, and only lasts 6-18 months due to its higher water absorption rate. Like I said, Castrol LMA is pretty good for street/autocross driving and it's only about $4 per 12oz bottle.

You will, but it is worth it if you learn something.

lonetlan

PLAN!! Alright, they have a replacement hose at Oriley's. I will get Castrol LMA DOT 4 $4 one like Evil Aviator said(thanks). Go to the place, replace the hose with a...uh wrench? Then, get rid of the air bubbles using the...uh valve on the slave cylinder(thanks importtuner). Drive real slow so I don't kill myself and have to stop at red lights. Get on the highway. I guess when I feel the clutch loose pressure, pull over, pop the hood put more fluid in, push clutch for a bit, close hood drive(pray I don't stall), make it home. Tell you guys the story, then finally stay in the cold hugging muh ride! For clearance the "uh" parts mean I'm gonna stand there and don't know that to do. So, weres a tutorial on how to replace the hose, and how to get rid of air bubbles, I'm gonna search.

importtuner137

To remove the air from your clutch system, you're going to have to open up the bleeder screw on your slave cylinder about a full turn. After that push the clutch pedal down and either have some one hold it down untill you tighten the bleeder screw back up. Or find a big rock on the side of the road that can hold down the pedal untill you tighten the bleeder screw. After the screw is tight you can let up on the pedal. While you're doing that make sure that the Master cylinder doesn't empty out and such. Keep doing that untill you get a steady stream of DOT4 shootin' out. Make sure to keep the DOT 4 off of paint, as it will eat it up. No Bueno.

But, yeah as soon as you get into fifth you should be fine untill you hit city drivin' again... I'm really excited to see another, such as myself, get started on their own personal project car. I'm in the middle of savin' up for a TIi swap.

Anyways, keep us posted on how things go for you man.

lonetlan

thanks, the owner of this FC is off the highway, so I won't be driving into the city. I will hit two stoplights and one intersection where I will have to slow down or stop.

I hope all this doesn't take over an hour. Do I hand screw off the old flex hose and hand screw on the new one, or is it more difficult?

importtuner137

I never had to replace the hose... But, when I replaced my Master Cylinder, I just used a combination wrench. You won't need an insane amount of pressure. You'll probably be able to replace it in, oh under an hour I'm sure.

Hell, I know this is the WRONG thing to do... But, if you're that worried about taking too much time at the guys place you may be able to just duct tape it up. Lol.

Now, doing that is the absolute last resort if you can't find the line or don't have time to fix it... Doing that would be an insane saftey hazard though... But, if worst comes to worst.

You should be fine though, I would bring a phillips screw driver, a set of metric combo wrenches, and some slip joint pliers... That should be all you need to get the job done.

Good Luck

lonetlan

I'm worried about time because I don't want to pay cash upfront and then stay after to fix something. I'll bring ductape if its a last resort, I got a screwdriver, if a combination wrench is the one that is adjustable, I will bring that and really try to find the actual sizes of the nuts* so I don't strip anything.

lonetlan

^^Edit When I find the sizes, I will bring a wrench set that is the right size for the job.

lonetlan

I can't find the size to the part on the flex hose that screws onto the slave cylinder, or the master cylinder.

1979rx-7

iTrader: (1)

Well the rubber hose doesn't attach to the master it attaches here

on the firewall. That holding it together is a 10mm nut make sure not to twist the metal line off *I've seen it happen before*

On the backside here

IIRC is a 15mm or if you have it a crescent wrench hold it there when taking the nut on the other side loose

And on the slave cylinder I believe it is a 15 also.

You will have to have a wrench for that one you will be able to get the sizes for sure when you get your new hose

jackhild59

iTrader: (7)

No adjustable wrenches!

List:
10mm flare wrench
combination 17mm
combination 14mm
12 mm socket and extension
8mm combination
2' long piece of plastic tubing1/4" Inside Diameter
papertowels
screwdrive-flat blade
small long neck funnel.


Ok, for the hard metal line, you need a 10mm flare wrench-get a combo that will have 10mm on one end and 12mm on the other. Try do to this one with a combination wrench is asking for trouble.

For the other side of the upper connection, you need a combination 17mm.
For the connection on the other end (slave cyl) you need a combination 14mm.
You need a 12 mm socket and extension for the slave cyl bolts-
You need an 8mm combination for the bleed valve.

You need a 2' long piece of plastic tubing that fits over the bleed valve, 1/4" Inside Diameter.

And some papertowels!


Here is how to do it: Use the 10mm flare wrench and the 17mm combo to loosen the hardline/flexhose connection. The picture above doesn't show that you must also remove a 'U' shaped retaining clip. You can see the groove in the picture.

Use a screwdrive-flat blade- to pry it outward and off. Then disconnect the flexline completely.

Now, remove both slave cyl bolts and pull the slave out with the hose.

Use the 14mm to remove the hose from the slave. Thread the new hose into the slave and tighten securely.

While you have the slave out, loosen the bleed valve with the boxed end of the 8mm combination-It's easier to loosen with more elbow room-retighten very slightly.

Install the slave back in place on the tranny.

Attach the hose to the hard line through the bracket and tighten. Replace the clip.

Fill the master reservoir. You should use a funnel so you don't drip. In case no one has told you, brake fluid is very corrosive on paint, so use a small long neck funnel.

Put the combo end of the 8mm over the bleed valve and put the plastic tubing on the bleed valve nipple. The end of the hose should be put into a container, like a paper cup or plastic cup to catch the excess fluid.

Now you need a helper-*
Helper pushes clutch pedal down and holds it down.
You open the bleed valve and release the air/fluid.
Then, you tighten the valve and the helper releases the pedal. Pull it up by hand if necessary.
check the fluid level in the master reservoir every 3-4 strokes. Keep it between the low and full marks.

Repeat as until you get clear, clean bubble free fluid coming out of the bleed valve. When it runs clear and no more bubbles come out, tighten the bleed valve securely, wrap a papertowel around the bleed valve to catch the fluid in the hose and remove the hose.

Done.

If you do not have a helper, use a 2.5' long 2x4. Push the clutch pedal down, hold it with the 2x4 braced against the seat. Walk around the door, release the valve,retighten. Then walk back around the door, remove the 2x4, restroke the pedal, hold it down with the 2x4, repeat repeat repeat. This takes longer, but you don't have to have help.

Good luck!

lonetlan

I want to say thanks to 1979rx-7 and jackhid59 for the pics and write-up, that is awesome!(should be made into a tutorial)

I'm going to get this car in 30 minutes, and I'm gonna come back and tell what happened! Actually, I want to thank everyone who posted in this thread, you all really helped a lot!

lonetlan

SUCCESS!!! Gah I'm EXCITED!!!! We got there and the body is outdated, the Rx7 sticker is faded so it looks like RY7, The frame is straight with very little surface rust. The engine started, then died, than started again and I did the "hold at 3,000" for 10sec" thing and all is fine. We took if for a test drive, and my horrible shifting skills were ok with the broken flex hose. They put a foam washer that was like an inche wide and 3inches long over the cracks so I can drive it til I fix it. It was missing the driver side window and lock controls, and the seats were crap, also the carpet was crap, but I' gonna fix all of it. It has 178,xxx miles on it, so I will need to do a complete flush of all fluids until summer, than schedule a rebuild with one of the trusted restorers on this freakin awesome site. Anyways it needs new tires and an exhaust, the tips were warped and had holes. The engine bay needs a steam bath, and so does the interior I might add. I will have it tomorrow, $1750 cash, I have to get a new title and basically half-way restore for dd use and if the engine lets me, some fun that all you guys talk about in these tamed beasts known as the Rex7 to some. So, I want to REALLY THANK ALL THAT HELPED AND TOOK TIME TO HELP A NEW RX7 OWNER!!!

P.S. I'm going to make wicked awesome tutorials on how to do some stuff so people don't look dumb like I did(with detailed writing and pics)

1979rx-7

iTrader: (1)

No problem congrats on getting it