Upgrade Pulleys?
05-09-16, 05:51 AM
#1
Upgrade Pulleys?
Is there solution to the 2 vbelts needed for an FC that is only running an alternator?
I can't seem to get 2 belts that are the exact same size(they are always off by a few millimeters) making 1 belt always looser than the other. Is there pulley kit that uses belts like the FD?
Do people just go gilmer drive and live with the noise?
I can't seem to get 2 belts that are the exact same size(they are always off by a few millimeters) making 1 belt always looser than the other. Is there pulley kit that uses belts like the FD?
Do people just go gilmer drive and live with the noise?
05-09-16, 09:17 AM
#3
Smells like 2 stroke.
My solution for this same issue was to put the single sheave 'pulley' back on the alternator, put a stock alternator drive belt on, then run a shorter belt from the eccentric shaft pulley to the water pump. I've used this set-up on both the FC'S I've owned since 2007. They are both running fine, no issues. No alternator slippage, no water pump slippage. Both cars run a stock clutch fan with good clutches. Both cars are S4 N/A. I run a 22" belt. You may need a longer or shorter one if your car is an S5. Keep in mind this doesn't work if you have an air pump on the car, which I assume in your case is not an issue anymore.
Edit: let the flaming begin.
Somebody is going to chime in about "side-loading the eccentric shaft" I'm sure of it. When I encounter this issue I'll let you know.
Edit: let the flaming begin.
Somebody is going to chime in about "side-loading the eccentric shaft" I'm sure of it. When I encounter this issue I'll let you know.
Last edited by DaBrkddy; 05-09-16 at 09:20 AM.
05-09-16, 09:42 AM
#4
I have a water pump...... I figured that was a given.
So I have main pulley, the water pump, and the alternator. The issue I get is that the belts seem to have to much slack. I can spin the water pump if I grab it by itself. Also the belts just wear unevenly. I have to replace the belts every few months which isnt expensive particularly but its unnecessary and annoying.
DaBrkddy... Im not sure I understand what you are doing there. can you explain?
So I have main pulley, the water pump, and the alternator. The issue I get is that the belts seem to have to much slack. I can spin the water pump if I grab it by itself. Also the belts just wear unevenly. I have to replace the belts every few months which isnt expensive particularly but its unnecessary and annoying.
DaBrkddy... Im not sure I understand what you are doing there. can you explain?
Last edited by 1NSIGHT; 05-09-16 at 09:44 AM.
05-09-16, 09:59 AM
#5
You can relocate the alternator to the side of the engine block (but only if you have no AC or PS) and have good pulley wrap with only one belt. Atkins make such a kit, I believe.
And recently, a forum member- who's name escapes me ATM, sorry- dealt with this issue by using an idler pulley where the air pump used to be, which allowed two belts again and made the WP happy.
And recently, a forum member- who's name escapes me ATM, sorry- dealt with this issue by using an idler pulley where the air pump used to be, which allowed two belts again and made the WP happy.
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05-09-16, 06:58 PM
#10
Yeah for some reason the outside belt is always tighter even though you'd think the inside one would be, and you always get water pump slip unless you overtighten. I did an idler pulley on mine rather than the "yoohoo" or helper belt thingo. Works well, except causes some brand belts to delaminate. Would go cosmo serpentine if i came across one.
05-09-16, 07:44 PM
#11
Like most people, I too have done the Yoo-hoo belt in a past life. Also done Gilmer drive (another discussion). All I will say is once you move on to another technique, you'll never go back to Yoo-hoo. It's a PITA to fit and it doesn't work as well as many think it does. It still slips at high rpm.
I currently use a dual sheave pulley system and it just works "okay". Nothing is going to be as good as a proper ribbed belt or an idler pulley retrofit.
I currently use a dual sheave pulley system and it just works "okay". Nothing is going to be as good as a proper ribbed belt or an idler pulley retrofit.
05-10-16, 02:09 AM
#13
Hi mate. Sorry cant help with part #, I just went through the pulleys brochure at the auto parts store and that was the only flat one that was wide enough and had a small enough diameter. I think its for a landcruiser or something.
Mounting is just a super high tensile 12.9 m8 bolt, a couple of bearing spacers from the bearing shop to make a 17mm hole fit on a 8m bolt and some backyard spacers to get it where it needed to be.
Not very high-tech i'm afraid but it seems rock solid apart from chewing through a certain brand of belt (bosch). seems good with "marathon" belts. Ideally probably want belts that dont have the serations. I dont think V belts are designed to be bent the other way.
Mounting is just a super high tensile 12.9 m8 bolt, a couple of bearing spacers from the bearing shop to make a 17mm hole fit on a 8m bolt and some backyard spacers to get it where it needed to be.
Not very high-tech i'm afraid but it seems rock solid apart from chewing through a certain brand of belt (bosch). seems good with "marathon" belts. Ideally probably want belts that dont have the serations. I dont think V belts are designed to be bent the other way.
05-10-16, 12:41 PM
#15
Smells like 2 stroke.
'Lawn mower' style V-Belts that do not have 'cogs' on them usually have extra material on the back to withstand the extra pressure/friction from tensioner(s). I've seen a few different types of lawn tractors with tensioners on the back of the belt.
That being said, I do not recommend running a lawnmower belt for your alternator drive belt. The cogs on most automotive V-belts are there to help them flex around smaller pulleys- like our alternator pulleys. It seems they are made with higher precision as well, as they have less 'runout.' I would be weary of using any lawnmower belt for my alternator belt; especially two lawn mower belts right next to each other. I'm sure the variation in the thickness of the belt and the total runout would ruin bearings at high RPM; at the very least you would risk excess heat and delaminating the belt, especially if there was a solid mounted idler pulley pushing on the back of the belt (most lawn mower tensioners are spring loaded 'floating' tensioners.)
As for multi-rib, serpentine, and Cogged belt drives, they all exceed the price of a $7 Yoo-Hoo belt. I've been through three Cogged belt drives; none of them fit or worked correctly because of the poor machining practices used in their manufacture. I'm not going to name names, but I am also not going to run a Chinese manufactured 'Gilmer belt drive' re-packaged by an American supplier. I have nothing against the above methods of turning pulleys; I just like the Yoo-Hoo belt because I haven't found a more effective method for the same price.
What would I do with unlimited funds and time? Relocate the alternator to the driver's side of the engine, machine my own pulleys, and run a radiused cog belt drive (like a timing belt.)
That being said, I do not recommend running a lawnmower belt for your alternator drive belt. The cogs on most automotive V-belts are there to help them flex around smaller pulleys- like our alternator pulleys. It seems they are made with higher precision as well, as they have less 'runout.' I would be weary of using any lawnmower belt for my alternator belt; especially two lawn mower belts right next to each other. I'm sure the variation in the thickness of the belt and the total runout would ruin bearings at high RPM; at the very least you would risk excess heat and delaminating the belt, especially if there was a solid mounted idler pulley pushing on the back of the belt (most lawn mower tensioners are spring loaded 'floating' tensioners.)
As for multi-rib, serpentine, and Cogged belt drives, they all exceed the price of a $7 Yoo-Hoo belt. I've been through three Cogged belt drives; none of them fit or worked correctly because of the poor machining practices used in their manufacture. I'm not going to name names, but I am also not going to run a Chinese manufactured 'Gilmer belt drive' re-packaged by an American supplier. I have nothing against the above methods of turning pulleys; I just like the Yoo-Hoo belt because I haven't found a more effective method for the same price.
What would I do with unlimited funds and time? Relocate the alternator to the driver's side of the engine, machine my own pulleys, and run a radiused cog belt drive (like a timing belt.)
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