Updrade spark or fuel ???
04-18-16, 03:28 PM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: North jersey
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Updrade spark or fuel ???
Whats up guys. I have a 91 fc3s periphal port that im trying to get running reliably. i have two msd boxes with selectors clicked in at 10000 , ngk R plugs , ngk wires , and dual ignition coils going to a stock distributor.. i hard to start have to give it a few pumps without flooding then when on sputters on the way to rev limiter, And i cannot drive it without it dying out and almost like it has to much fuel and floods itself..do i need hotter plugs ?? try upgrading the distributor ?? im lost this thing can idle forever when WARMED UP AND GOING BUT ONCE I START DRIVING JUST CHOKES AND DIES THEN ITS THE STRUGGLE TURNING ON AGAIN..SO I DONT DARE TAKE IT ANYWHERE TO GET LEFT STRANDED.. ANYBODY HAVE IDEAS WITH PORTED ENGINES
04-18-16, 05:54 PM
#2
I wish I was driving!
Whats up guys. I have a 91 fc3s periphal port that im trying to get running reliably. i have two msd boxes with selectors clicked in at 10000 , ngk R plugs , ngk wires , and dual ignition coils going to a stock distributor.. i hard to start have to give it a few pumps without flooding then when on sputters on the way to rev limiter, And i cannot drive it without it dying out and almost like it has to much fuel and floods itself..do i need hotter plugs ?? try upgrading the distributor ?? im lost this thing can idle forever when WARMED UP AND GOING BUT ONCE I START DRIVING JUST CHOKES AND DIES THEN ITS THE STRUGGLE TURNING ON AGAIN..SO I DONT DARE TAKE IT ANYWHERE TO GET LEFT STRANDED.. ANYBODY HAVE IDEAS WITH PORTED ENGINES
04-19-16, 10:42 AM
#3
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: North jersey
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
13b peripheral port with i believe a 51da and genesis stacks .. previous owner took that motor out of his starlet drag car and put it in the vert fc.. NOW I DID SOME POKING AROUND AND HAD A HUNCH, THIS A PERIPHERAL PORT SET UP WITH STOCK PLUGS ?!?! two burq9s and two burq7s which i believe is the setup for a stock 13b..That also could explain choking and getting flooded easy ******* thing is not burning the fuel quick enough..
04-19-16, 11:57 AM
#4
MECP Certified Installer
hotter plug does not equal burning fuel any faster (unless you go too hot and detonate and that's bad!).
If you are running the MSD, trust me, the fuel is burning. Your ignition system is actually overkill as the factory ignition is fine up to about 600hp.
Sounds to me you are getting way too much fuel. Have you tried adjusting the carb? A wideband or preferably an exhaust gas analyzer would be ideal but you can always do the old school "turn the screw, sniff the tailpipe" method.
Edit: Just to add, hotter and colder spark plugs relate more to them cleaning themselves. If you use too cold of a plug on a daily driver type car, it will carbon foul as it never gets hot enough to clean itself. In a race situation where the car sees maximum load 95% of the time you need a colder plug so that excess heat can be drawn away from the plug so it doesn't melt, and also a glowing red spark plug will cause the fuel to detonate.
Basically, it isn't your spark plugs my friend.
If you'd like to read more about spark plug heat ranges, click the link below...
https://www.mazdatrix.com/ign-2.htm
.
If you are running the MSD, trust me, the fuel is burning. Your ignition system is actually overkill as the factory ignition is fine up to about 600hp.
Sounds to me you are getting way too much fuel. Have you tried adjusting the carb? A wideband or preferably an exhaust gas analyzer would be ideal but you can always do the old school "turn the screw, sniff the tailpipe" method.
Edit: Just to add, hotter and colder spark plugs relate more to them cleaning themselves. If you use too cold of a plug on a daily driver type car, it will carbon foul as it never gets hot enough to clean itself. In a race situation where the car sees maximum load 95% of the time you need a colder plug so that excess heat can be drawn away from the plug so it doesn't melt, and also a glowing red spark plug will cause the fuel to detonate.
Basically, it isn't your spark plugs my friend.
If you'd like to read more about spark plug heat ranges, click the link below...
https://www.mazdatrix.com/ign-2.htm
.
Last edited by jjwalker; 04-19-16 at 12:08 PM. Reason: additional information
04-19-16, 12:19 PM
#5
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: North jersey
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
thanks for the input. i figured it was overkill but hey he had it in there so why not. i forgot to mention a stock distributor as well. Thinkin maybe upgrade plugs slightly to the iridiums NGK Spark Plug for BR10EIX Racing - Racing Beat
and i believe because i keep looking for markings or numbers on the carb this one makes sense thats on it Weber Carb - 51 IDA, Down Draft for RX7 1986-1992 - Racing Beat
and i believe because i keep looking for markings or numbers on the carb this one makes sense thats on it Weber Carb - 51 IDA, Down Draft for RX7 1986-1992 - Racing Beat
04-19-16, 02:04 PM
#6
MECP Certified Installer
Leave the plugs alone. You have a fuel issue.
Lean the carb out some and see if it helps. There is no exact science on carbs. Get after that fuel screw and lean it out. since it doesn't want to idle cold turn the screw 2 turns clockwise and try and fire it up. Fuel screw clockwise leans it out and counter clockwise richens it up. Once you get it to idle, at operating temperature, turn the screw clockwise and idle speed will go up until the car starts to sputter and complain. Once at that point turn the screw a full turn counterclockwise.
Let me know your results.
Lean the carb out some and see if it helps. There is no exact science on carbs. Get after that fuel screw and lean it out. since it doesn't want to idle cold turn the screw 2 turns clockwise and try and fire it up. Fuel screw clockwise leans it out and counter clockwise richens it up. Once you get it to idle, at operating temperature, turn the screw clockwise and idle speed will go up until the car starts to sputter and complain. Once at that point turn the screw a full turn counterclockwise.
Let me know your results.
04-19-16, 02:28 PM
#7
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: North jersey
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
wow... Thanks alot brotha. i will try as soon as i get home. It does idle after a a ton of trys to start it and pumping and trying not to flood the damn thing. then idles like a typical 13bpp but with an occasion sputter.. This going to look noob but my idle ( brap brap brap brapbrap then back to brap brap brap brapbrap ) lol like sputtering in between then as soon i try to put the hammer down instant choke i have to gradually give it gas then pin it. As far as driving just bogs down after a couple shifts and slowly just dies till shut off then back to the freakking starting game..so you figure with two mds boxes ngk everything it might be what you said because i did store it over the winter an started once in a blue.. then i took the carb apart to see how it looked looked clean put it back together and still no dice bieng relaible to at least take it to a local car show or the drag strip....thanks man..
Also im guessing the obvious flat head gold looking screw in the middle of the carb ??
Also im guessing the obvious flat head gold looking screw in the middle of the carb ??
Trending Topics
04-19-16, 07:32 PM
#8
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: North jersey
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
wow... Thanks alot brotha. i will try as soon as i get home. It does idle after a a ton of trys to start it and pumping and trying not to flood the damn thing. then idles like a typical 13bpp but with an occasion sputter.. This going to look noob but my idle ( brap brap brap brapbrap then back to brap brap brap brapbrap ) lol like sputtering in between then as soon i try to put the hammer down instant choke i have to gradually give it gas then pin it. As far as driving just bogs down after a couple shifts and slowly just dies till shut off then back to the freakking starting game..so you figure with two mds boxes ngk everything it might be what you said because i did store it over the winter an started once in a blue.. then i took the carb apart to see how it looked looked clean put it back together and still no dice bieng relaible to at least take it to a local car show or the drag strip....thanks man..
Also im guessing the obvious flat head gold looking screw in the middle of the carb ??
Also im guessing the obvious flat head gold looking screw in the middle of the carb ??
These are the screws i see to adjust
04-19-16, 07:45 PM
#9
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: North jersey
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Leave the plugs alone. You have a fuel issue.
Lean the carb out some and see if it helps. There is no exact science on carbs. Get after that fuel screw and lean it out. since it doesn't want to idle cold turn the screw 2 turns clockwise and try and fire it up. Fuel screw clockwise leans it out and counter clockwise richens it up. Once you get it to idle, at operating temperature, turn the screw clockwise and idle speed will go up until the car starts to sputter and complain. Once at that point turn the screw a full turn counterclockwise.
Let me know your results.
Lean the carb out some and see if it helps. There is no exact science on carbs. Get after that fuel screw and lean it out. since it doesn't want to idle cold turn the screw 2 turns clockwise and try and fire it up. Fuel screw clockwise leans it out and counter clockwise richens it up. Once you get it to idle, at operating temperature, turn the screw clockwise and idle speed will go up until the car starts to sputter and complain. Once at that point turn the screw a full turn counterclockwise.
Let me know your results.
Brand name on top GENE BERG
These 4 on top of what im guessing is the float
04-19-16, 07:50 PM
#10
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: North jersey
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Whats up guys. I have a 91 fc3s periphal port that im trying to get running reliably. i have two msd boxes with selectors clicked in at 10000 , ngk R plugs , ngk wires , and dual ignition coils going to a stock distributor.. i hard to start have to give it a few pumps without flooding then when on sputters on the way to rev limiter, And i cannot drive it without it dying out and almost like it has to much fuel and floods itself..do i need hotter plugs ?? try upgrading the distributor ?? im lost this thing can idle forever when WARMED UP AND GOING BUT ONCE I START DRIVING JUST CHOKES AND DIES THEN ITS THE STRUGGLE TURNING ON AGAIN..SO I DONT DARE TAKE IT ANYWHERE TO GET LEFT STRANDED.. ANYBODY HAVE IDEAS WITH PORTED ENGINES
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post