junito1

I want to know if anyone if using these things.
I seen a 3rd gen in town with one. Not even mounted to the motor it was out to the side above chassi.

WHat is required for the installation? Must remove stock watter pump or wut?

Im trying to find out everything about it.



WOuld this be something that would handle drifting and up to 6 hard laps on a circuit?

Alex Rodriguez

iTrader: (137)

heres all th info you need

theracingstore.com - they sell the adapter to remove the pump and the flage to adapt the external pump

you will then need all the required plumbing to do this, summit sells the pumps too

Sideways7

iTrader: (7)

What does the stock pump put out? The one they have listed is only 20 GPM, is that enough?

RETed

The problem is most of them are NOT designed for continuous street use.

I think only the Meziere one is rated for street use.


-Ted

Sideways7

iTrader: (7)

Yes, but does it flow enough? I searched and couldn't any info on what the flow needs to be. I assume that would be plenty, but I'd like to make sure as this is something I've been thinking about for a while.

RotaMan99

There is no reason for one for the street. Our water pumps are fine and won't gain much of anything removing it. You will probubly loose more considering the electrical conversions, going from mechanical to electrical back to mechanical.

Sideways7

iTrader: (7)

Unless you plan on tracking it occasionally, like I do. I really don't want to underdrive anything since I still street drive it, but I don't want it to cavitate when at the track. Its more of a pipe dream, anyway, but if I get the money down the line I'd like to do it.

The other question is what the current draw is like. I'm swapping on an FD alt soon, so hopefully that would take care of it.

RotaMan99

True. I wonder at what RPM the water pump starts to cavitate? I think that would be a question to ask and then ask your self, how long are you going to be at that rpm to actually allow the engine to overheat due to the cavitation?

I have driven around at 6500-7000rpm on the highway for about a mile or so now and then, just because and I have no issue, also racing through the gears on the highway and getting the rpms up to 7500rpm from 5000 every shift doesn't harm it either. Also going through the gears on deserted back roads not going over 60 bringing the rpms up to 7500, 8000 at times doesn't overheat my engine either.

My engine temp climbs to about 100*C when around 4000-5000 under WOT on the highway but I don't have the belly pan on either which would make a large difference.

I know the highway can make a difference but just trying to let you know that I don't see a need for an electric pump but I also have not brought it to a track. How much longer are you going to hold the engine at high rpms? Since mazda designed the engine to have power to about 6800-7500 depending on series, I don't see why Mazda would use a water pump that would cavitate at those rpms or lower.

teddyrx2

iTrader: (33)

I know im doing an electric water pump for both my drag cars my sa and rx2 im going to be running the meziere

KNONFS

iTrader: (14)

For the 86-88:
http://www.eastcoastparts.com/html/water_pump.html

Also, here is a good thread that you should read:
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ght=water+pump

Plenty of real life experience

moonless

I was at the drag strip about 2-3 weeks back and was having major heat soak. I let the car sit for over a hour after doing 3 runs. The radiator was still too hot to hold your hand on for more then a few seconds. I don't know if it got this hot from cavatation but that is my guess as I do rev to right to 8,400 before shifts just before my rev limiter kicks on and occassinoly cross the line on the limiter if I didn't have time to go to 4th. I started toying with the idea of going to a electric pump set up just for this reason. Would allow me to run the pump with the car shut off to cool it down between runs with a battery charger and genarator set up. I am concerned about how a electric pump will be on the street but I know a lot of my freinds with muscle cars don't have problems with electric pumps on hte street so shouldn't be a problem.

RotaMan99

My guess is that if your radiator was hot, then the cavitation of the water pump was not your issue since the hot coolant was being pumped into the radiator. If the pump was cavitating then I would think the rad would be cool to the touch since the fluid in it would just be over cooled.

You may need an aftermarket radiator if you don't have one already

junito1

ok. EnJ sell a direct replacement electric pump that flows 35-70 GPM.

I would much rather go with one that is universal and could be mounted out to the side of the motor where stock battery or air box go.
For this method what has to be done to the stock water pump?

splatterbass

cavitation. hmmm.

any water pump in a car is a centripital pump. meaning that the vanes on the pump are throwing the water from a central point ( just like in a turbo, or a vacum cleaner ) cement pumps work in the same way, and those push concrete up a few stories. i really donīt think cavitation will effect efficancy all that much. not a lot to worry about.

caviation occurs in two fashions.

#1 - when the water is moving in a fashion that causes bubbles to occur.
when these bubbles colapse they cause a mini shockwave that impacts the metals surface and causes particals to relese causing indentations that further cause bubbles and shockwaves, thus perpetuating the problem. this happens on the blades of ship propellers, 38 - 120 rpm. it dosn`t have to be fast.

#2 - the speed of the fluid is as such that a corner or imperfection large enough to cause vorticies ( mini tornados ) will erode the metal at that point.( sand it off on an atomic level ) high pressure lines. when hydraulic valves fail, or steam valves.

both scenarios occur at an atomic level, and take some time to become a problem ( except with concrete pumps, but they have rocks and sand going through them )

i think the problem in high revving engines is more a problem of, will the bearings take it. the majic number here is 10000 rpm, at which point most things will tear themselves apart. each fan blade in a jet engine is made in such a way that each blade is a single crystal of metal ( long expensive process of manufacture, as well as alloys used ) the bearings in turbos are manufactured in much the same way, as well as the fans.

so basicly it is an rpm problem more than anything else.

junito1

well i have an s4 tII which only does 7,000 rpms.


what kind of GPM should i need?

How much do the stock pumps flow?