underheating problem? how long does it take to reach operating temp?
#1
underheating problem? how long does it take to reach operating temp?
i have an auto-meter gauge, as well as an aftermarket radiator. i'm affraid the radiator is overkill as my car seems to stay around 160*, it never really gets hotter than that, maybe 163* SOMETIMES... but never above that, most times it never gets hotter than 145* i'm scared that my car is underheating.. the seller of the car told me that the gauge needed an adapter and that that's why its 20* off..
what do you guys think? and is anyone else running auto-meter gauges having this issue?
what do you guys think? and is anyone else running auto-meter gauges having this issue?
#5
Rotary Freak
iTrader: (10)
Probably should get the reading from the stock location underneath the Oil sending unit.
Hopefully when the rad was replaced the guy knew how to bleed it. Air in the system could cause false temp readings if the sensor is not at the block. Who knows it might even be OVERHEATING!!!!
Get it fixed ASAP!
Hopefully when the rad was replaced the guy knew how to bleed it. Air in the system could cause false temp readings if the sensor is not at the block. Who knows it might even be OVERHEATING!!!!
Get it fixed ASAP!
Last edited by RexRyder; 02-19-12 at 01:20 AM. Reason: Needed to emphasize ASAP!
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#8
Rotary Freak
iTrader: (10)
Yes there is air where you are explaining.
Read here: http://www.radiators.com/radiator_how_to_maintain.html
Also make sure your temp sensor is at the correct location or you may not receive an accurate temp reading, who knows you might be overheating!!!
#9
Goodness, you guys are making me feel like an idiot hahaha.. I'm not sure what kind of thermostat is in the car, or where the readings are coming from.. but tomorrow I will check manually with a temp reader thing. So point it under the oil sender you say?
#10
Rotary Freak
iTrader: (10)
Also if you're not sure what thermos you got, just get a new OEM MAZDA one. It's only like 10 or 15 bucks.
#11
I don't think that will work unless your temp reader can somehow get coolant temp readings from inside the block. Just trace the wire from the back of the gauge to a brass looking thing in the engine bay.
Also if you're not sure what thermos you got, just get a new OEM MAZDA one. It's only like 10 or 15 bucks.
Also if you're not sure what thermos you got, just get a new OEM MAZDA one. It's only like 10 or 15 bucks.
And where would be the ideal place to wire my gauge to? Or is that what you meant by the "under the oil sender" thing?
#13
Alright.. thank you, I know I'm a ****** retard.. I'm glad this is rx7 club and not zilvia or someshit, cuz I woulda for sure got eaten up on a different forum. I guess this just goes to show the difference between civic, integra, 240sx enthusiasts vs rx7 owners hahaha.. thanks
#15
Rotary $ > AMG $
iTrader: (7)
Alright.. thank you, I know I'm a ****** retard.. I'm glad this is rx7 club and not zilvia or someshit, cuz I woulda for sure got eaten up on a different forum. I guess this just goes to show the difference between civic, integra, 240sx enthusiasts vs rx7 owners hahaha.. thanks
Some one at least should have bitched that you haven't read the FAQ or searched the stickies.
No one has called you a nimrod or a phuktard yet? We gotta be slipping.
Maybe all the mean boys are out rotating the tennis ***** on their walkers...there were rumors at one time of an old farts club.
Just for grins-here is a link for you-
http://www.fc3spro.com/TECH/PROBLEMS...OT/coolant.htm
http://www.fc3spro.com/TECH/PROBLEMS/problems2.html
Good Luck
-Jack
#19
Cake or Death?
iTrader: (2)
That would be a reasonable assumption (like I said three months ago).
If your gauge is correct and temp never breaches 170°, the upper rad hose should always be cold/warm, not hot.
You could easily check this and see.
Hot upper hose=open thermostat=temp greater than 160°=lying *** gauge.
If your gauge is correct and temp never breaches 170°, the upper rad hose should always be cold/warm, not hot.
You could easily check this and see.
Hot upper hose=open thermostat=temp greater than 160°=lying *** gauge.
#20
That would be a reasonable assumption (like I said three months ago).
If your gauge is correct and temp never breaches 170°, the upper rad hose should always be cold/warm, not hot.
You could easily check this and see.
Hot upper hose=open thermostat=temp greater than 160°=lying *** gauge.
If your gauge is correct and temp never breaches 170°, the upper rad hose should always be cold/warm, not hot.
You could easily check this and see.
Hot upper hose=open thermostat=temp greater than 160°=lying *** gauge.
#23
i just thought of something else interesting.. the original t.stat that i had in the car(not oem) would rest at 140* most of the time which i now concluded must have been 180*..
and upon replacing it with an oem t.stat from mazdatrix.. it now rests at 160* most of the time which must actually be 200*.. what the hell is going on?!
that means the non-oem one was working better?!
and upon replacing it with an oem t.stat from mazdatrix.. it now rests at 160* most of the time which must actually be 200*.. what the hell is going on?!
that means the non-oem one was working better?!