'87 t2. rtek 1.5 ecm. knight sport hybrid s5 turbo w/slightly larger compressor side (sorry, don't know exact spec). everything else stock.

*note-car had been sitting since '03 due to blown apex seal. replaced engine. transferred all parts from original engine, and here i am now.

so, car idles at 1200rpm cold and hot. jump service connector, adjust bypass air screw, no change. disconnect bac, no change. tested bac resistance-within spec. applied power/ground, valve clicks. resistance tested air supply solenoid valve-within spec. applied power/ground to valve-clicks.
the aws tested bad. wondering if it's possible that the aws is stuck partially open, allowing air past the throttle plate and keeping idle at 1200. but then, wouldn't adjusting the bypass screw or disconnecting the bac still have some sort of effect? because i'm getting absolutely no change when doing either. to my understanding, the air control valve should have no effect on idle. and so i have not tested it yet.

*another note-i try to set the timing, get it set, and the ecm seems to be countering my adjustment. for instance, get L1 and T1 set, blip the throttle a few times, and T1 will be firing at the same time as L1 (both lined up with yellow mark) or i'll tak it for a quick spin around the block and the timing is back out to lunch. i'm thinking i need to solve the idle issue first, as it could be causing my timing woes. or that you probably can't set timing at 1200rpm.
or maybe these things could be due to the rtek ecm? i do still have the stock unit

so basically, i'm wondering what could be causing this? and could it be the aws? rtek?
my first rotary, so please bare with me. really want to get this thing running proper so i can drive it.
as always, your insight is much appreciated

 

alright so apparently a vac leak can cause this, which could include am internal leak in the acv. i'd just assumed it would have caused a loping idle as apposed to just a high idle. will check for leaks when i get back from work tonight.

 

have you adjusted tps?

 

If you are idling at the same speed hot or cold, your thermowax is removed or out of adjustment.
It's not a bad thing if your engine is healthy enough to hold idle when cold.
Check that the throttle cable/cruise control cables aren't too tight. Set them after the engine is warmed up to ensure the thermowax is disengaged (if it's there).

Next, check for vacuum leaks by spraying carb cleaner near all the intake hoses and mating surfaces.

The deceleration dashpots could also be holding the idle open. The throttle body stop could be adjusted incorrectly.

As for timing, it needs to be set with the car idling under ~1000 rpm. Above that, the ecu adjusts timing.

 

tps has been adjusted as per fsm. i have since replaced the aws. no change. i am definitely suspecting the thermo wax pellet. having trouble seeing the marks on the throttle arm that are supposed to line up with the cam roller. my haynes shows for 6 port. turbo i believe is different. i think the uim/tb needs to be removed and this check done on the bench. any insight on that? i adjusted the cam screw to drop the idle to a more reasonable 900rpm. but that's where it sits regardless. the pellet is there. i doubt i'll even test it. probably just replace. i had been informed that after about 7 years, they usually need replacing. eh, may as well test while it's out. i was also thinking the double throttle diaphragm as well. i will test the wax pellet and see how that serves up.
thank you for the replies
edit: no vac leaks from anywhere that i could reach with my quick start
since i have lowered the idle, i have set the timing bang on. it seems to be in order now