UIM Nipple Facing Passenger Strut Should Hold Vac Right?
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 11,576
Likes: 27
From: Morristown, TN (east of Knoxville)
hold vacuum?
it will generate vacuum if that is what you mean. if you shut the engine off, it will no longer generate vacuum, so no, it will not hold vacuum.
it will generate vacuum if that is what you mean. if you shut the engine off, it will no longer generate vacuum, so no, it will not hold vacuum.
No, I mean I suspect I have a vac leak. How do you go about finding vac leaks kevin? I used my air compressor and a 2" rubber cap from home depot. I pumped compressed air ito the motor and sprayed around with soapy water. Found a massive ACV block off plate leak. This is the only method I can use, because I can rarely get the car started.
When I do get it running, it will keep at 2000 rpm, because of the manual adjustment. It stays at 2000 rpm, until I release the clutch, at which point, the car drops to 1200rpm, and fluctuates to 1500.
When I do get it running, it will keep at 2000 rpm, because of the manual adjustment. It stays at 2000 rpm, until I release the clutch, at which point, the car drops to 1200rpm, and fluctuates to 1500.
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 11,576
Likes: 27
From: Morristown, TN (east of Knoxville)
There is no solid way to do it. I personally just take the upper manifold off and start looking. The other way is to do as you described, pressurize the intake pathway and listen for hissing while moving hoses and stuff around trying to make the sound change.
Really, if you tear the intake off down to the block (not a really big deal on an NA) and put in all new gaskets and hoses from there up, and are meticulous about hose connections, there's not much of a way to have a leak.
Really, if you tear the intake off down to the block (not a really big deal on an NA) and put in all new gaskets and hoses from there up, and are meticulous about hose connections, there's not much of a way to have a leak.
Hmm, this is a rebuild of a TII motor being swapped into my N/A. All emissions have been removed, and the throttle body mod was done also. I suspect a vac leak but I'm not sure that's the cause. I did just realize 2 other things that may be a problem. I noticed that the ground that runs to the driver side frame rail, coming from the battery is not connected.
I have an after market grounding kit with wires run to just about everything, but is that enough to compensate for the lack of the stock ground missing?
Second thing I realized, I may have inadvertently used a N/A main crank pully. The chances of this are Very, very slim, but I do have 3 sets of pullies, only one being the TII pully. Maybe I grabbed the wrong one? How can you tell the difference? I assume the timing marks would be in a different location as compared to the screw holes?
I have an after market grounding kit with wires run to just about everything, but is that enough to compensate for the lack of the stock ground missing?
Second thing I realized, I may have inadvertently used a N/A main crank pully. The chances of this are Very, very slim, but I do have 3 sets of pullies, only one being the TII pully. Maybe I grabbed the wrong one? How can you tell the difference? I assume the timing marks would be in a different location as compared to the screw holes?
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 11,576
Likes: 27
From: Morristown, TN (east of Knoxville)
pullies are different with regard to the timing marks. each pulley with marks is set up for the engine it originally came on. Mixing up pullies can get your timing marks off by quite a bit without you knowing it.
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