Uh oh, this can't be good... no compression.
11-27-07, 10:28 PM
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Uh oh, this can't be good... no compression.
Well, I went to start my FC earlier ('90 GXL) and I turn the key to hear my starter going full bore, but not like a "cranking" kind of sound. More like an RC car engine sound! I figured "great, my starter finally fucked up" and thought nothing of it. So I have my friend crank the car while I'm out in front of it... problem is... the engine was turning over WAY too freely. As in, the starter was essentially "running" the engine (in a manner of speaking.) There was no struggle whatsoever by the starter to turn the engine over. There was also a smell of fuel. I just have no clue what could have happened to my FC since I parked it from driving it last. All I can think of is the coolant froze and fucked **** up, but thats the thing- I have about 65/35 mix of antifreeze/water in the damn thing. Any ideas???
Oh, also, my oil cap is somehow missing, but I even covered that hole up and still no compression (sounds dumb, I know). So is my motor toast or is it just uber-flooded?
Oh, also, my oil cap is somehow missing, but I even covered that hole up and still no compression (sounds dumb, I know). So is my motor toast or is it just uber-flooded?
11-27-07, 10:35 PM
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^I'll go ahead and do that. It's been flooding on me a little bit here lately (well, at least daily) but not nearly this bad. What could cause this? Leaky injectors maybe?
11-27-07, 10:38 PM
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yup sounds flooded mine was like this when i got it. I removed plugs cleaned them then poured sum oil in the chambers reinstalled cranked with egi fuse out until it sputtered to life then put in fuse.I also had to hold the throttle wide open until it stumbled and smoked out my yard finally it cleared up and started running smooth.I replaced my plugs and its been good as new ever since.
11-27-07, 10:38 PM
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I had a similar problem with mine not this week. When it gets cold it is hard to start and it floods easier. Just unflood it first and then check compression with a proper tool.
11-27-07, 10:40 PM
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^LOL, I don't have a comp tester unfortunately. Hell, I don't even have the money to replace my plugs. I should be able to clean them though right?
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11-28-07, 06:38 AM
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11-28-07, 09:10 AM
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If I was trying to unflood/ get compression back when plugs removed, I always pulled the 40 amp fuse for the fuel injection and spark, if you only pull the 30 amp, the gas thats comes out of the plug holes could catch on fire, as the plug wires are still sparking.
also add your oil, use a baby phlem sucker. you will only be able to squirt into one rotor at a time and only through the leading plug holes, touch the key to slightly turn engine and repeat process, till you hear a nice squishy sound, "kinda like really good sex". You will then see a mist coming out from the open hood, replace plugs and fuse and should run again.
should add about 10 hp or more..to a beat engine! till it burns off.
trying adding TCW-3 to your gas, helps engine last longer. change oil every 1000k helps also.
also add your oil, use a baby phlem sucker. you will only be able to squirt into one rotor at a time and only through the leading plug holes, touch the key to slightly turn engine and repeat process, till you hear a nice squishy sound, "kinda like really good sex". You will then see a mist coming out from the open hood, replace plugs and fuse and should run again.
should add about 10 hp or more..to a beat engine! till it burns off.
trying adding TCW-3 to your gas, helps engine last longer. change oil every 1000k helps also.
11-28-07, 07:33 PM
#18
You need to check compression.
I've had plugs that would not work until I blasted them with a propane or mapp gas torch. It burns off all the residue that is completing the circuit.
Yeah, that and it's a bottle of liquified trash. I guess it just depends on how you define "trash".
I've had plugs that would not work until I blasted them with a propane or mapp gas torch. It burns off all the residue that is completing the circuit.
Yeah, that and it's a bottle of liquified trash. I guess it just depends on how you define "trash".
11-28-07, 07:42 PM
#19
1.3L piston eater
pull out your bottom plugs, crank for 20 - 30 seconds till white mist stops coming out (gas) then get a hose and pour a spoonful of 2 stroke oil or engine oil in the leading plug holes , put them back in and it will hopefully start, thats what i did when my engine was EXTREMELY flooded. the oil will help build up compression
11-29-07, 03:21 PM
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UPDATE:
Alright, so I pulled the plugs, cranked till no more mist, cleaned the plugs with a wire brush, and put about 1-1.5 teaspoons of 2stroke oil in the holes. Put everything back together and went to start it. I have compression, but it will not start!!! I've been trying for over an hour (even got some starting fluid) and still nothing. I'm getting spark, thats for certain. I pulled the plugs and cranked it over with the plugs on the wires and they all had spark. Is it possible that its flooded on 2stroke oil???
Alright, so I pulled the plugs, cranked till no more mist, cleaned the plugs with a wire brush, and put about 1-1.5 teaspoons of 2stroke oil in the holes. Put everything back together and went to start it. I have compression, but it will not start!!! I've been trying for over an hour (even got some starting fluid) and still nothing. I'm getting spark, thats for certain. I pulled the plugs and cranked it over with the plugs on the wires and they all had spark. Is it possible that its flooded on 2stroke oil???
11-29-07, 04:39 PM
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If you say it has compression based on the "Whooshes" you're getting, thats not highly accurate. The "poor man" compression test is only good to see if the seals are still in tact, but tell you nothing about the actual level of compression... 30psi could sound like 60psi.
Do a real test, if you've got more than 70psi, it should fire up with some minor flooding from time to time.
I dont think I saw anybody else mention this either, but if you have an S5, crank the car with the gas pedal on the floor (I know - it sounds the opposite of what you want), but its an ECU trick. With the gas pedal down, crank for about 7-10 seconds, then crank normally. S5 have a fuel shut-off switch that triggers w/ the pedal fully depressed while cranking. Perhaps mazda knew these things would flood someday.
Do a real test, if you've got more than 70psi, it should fire up with some minor flooding from time to time.
I dont think I saw anybody else mention this either, but if you have an S5, crank the car with the gas pedal on the floor (I know - it sounds the opposite of what you want), but its an ECU trick. With the gas pedal down, crank for about 7-10 seconds, then crank normally. S5 have a fuel shut-off switch that triggers w/ the pedal fully depressed while cranking. Perhaps mazda knew these things would flood someday.
