Ughh... I blew my front rotor. (help)
05-06-09, 12:04 PM
#1
Darn Rotisserie Engines.
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Posts: 152
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ughh... I blew my front rotor. (help)
Title pretty much says it all. I blew the front rotor on my daily driven N/A S5 FC. shittiest night ever. It's cruel irony it really is. I spent the whole day washing her, clay barring her, waxing her, detailing the interior, and checking her fluids. I decide to take my nice pretty shiny RX-7 out for a nice drive around the lake and this happens...
So, I need some help from you guys with one thing. I'm taking this blown motor as an opportunity to do the TII swap/full restoration I've been wanting to do (after i buy a shitty honda or something to drive around.) To buy said honda I need to come up with some cash. so since I'm going to be swapping in a TII longblock, (eventually...) I figure I can start selling parts from my current longblock.
Outside of the obvious, complete blown shortblock, transmission, Upper and lower intake manifolds, exhaust manifold (and my custom cat delete/resonator pipe) what other kinds of things can i sell from my car so i can ughhhhhh buy a honda..... man this sucks.
So, I need some help from you guys with one thing. I'm taking this blown motor as an opportunity to do the TII swap/full restoration I've been wanting to do (after i buy a shitty honda or something to drive around.) To buy said honda I need to come up with some cash. so since I'm going to be swapping in a TII longblock, (eventually...) I figure I can start selling parts from my current longblock.
Outside of the obvious, complete blown shortblock, transmission, Upper and lower intake manifolds, exhaust manifold (and my custom cat delete/resonator pipe) what other kinds of things can i sell from my car so i can ughhhhhh buy a honda..... man this sucks.
Last edited by shrykFC3S; 05-06-09 at 12:16 PM.
05-06-09, 12:34 PM
#2
well rested,buffet o food
axles, driveshaft, rear, pressure sensor, afm, throttle cable, and ecu.
Not going to get much money though...... but then again, you are buying a honda.
So you should hopefully be fine
john ny
Not going to get much money though...... but then again, you are buying a honda.
So you should hopefully be fine
john ny
05-06-09, 01:05 PM
#3
Darn Rotisserie Engines.
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Posts: 152
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
well all that and a set of S5 tail lights (one broken) i should be good hehe.... what about external engine bits? alternator, intake assem., harness, air pump, A/C, BAC, ACV, that kind of stuff?
05-06-09, 03:03 PM
#5
Don't sell much of it of you'll kick your self in the *** when you go to put it together and need to buy X or Y little part from some hoser on here who wants $40 for a little piece off a 20 year old engine.
Sell whats left over IMO......if you need the money big time though, just sell the main items. The nick nack stuff is what will bite you in the *** later on.
Sell whats left over IMO......if you need the money big time though, just sell the main items. The nick nack stuff is what will bite you in the *** later on.
Trending Topics
05-06-09, 11:12 PM
#9
Zoom Zoom
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 638
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Rather than digging up a motor and paying for shipping and such, I'd recommend getting yourself a not so perfect T2. I will be cheaper in the long run and then you'll have a spare parts car.
05-06-09, 11:45 PM
#10
If you can find a T2 with a good engine and drivetrain for less than 2k then go for it. Very unlikely that you will though.
My suggestion? If you can get over the common misconception that boosting an NA engine is harder than building a space shuttle then buy an NA engine with good compression for a few hundred, throw it in, drive the car and boost it later on with stock TII parts.
Btw NA parts don't really sell for much. Most of the exterior stuff doesn't go bad on these cars either, including most of the parts you listed. Good luck, and you might want to look into a Toyota instead if the theft rate of Hondas is high in your area. Non interference engines too.
My suggestion? If you can get over the common misconception that boosting an NA engine is harder than building a space shuttle then buy an NA engine with good compression for a few hundred, throw it in, drive the car and boost it later on with stock TII parts.
Btw NA parts don't really sell for much. Most of the exterior stuff doesn't go bad on these cars either, including most of the parts you listed. Good luck, and you might want to look into a Toyota instead if the theft rate of Hondas is high in your area. Non interference engines too.
05-07-09, 12:25 AM
#12
Darn Rotisserie Engines.
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Posts: 152
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks for the tips guys, I would think i can at least get rid of some parts for the engine, enough to get together some cash to get a beater. I've been wanting to turn the car into a full project for quite some time.
Idk about that. as much as i would love that, the idea of rebuilding a 30,000 mile engine and starting with an essentially clean fresh platform is much more appealing than trying to rebuild a 100k one and having to spring for new housings and rotors and such. also living in an apartment limits my space for spare parts cars.
Yeah I've never been opposed to the idea of a 6 port turbo, I've actually been putting more and more thought into it... I do want a certain degree of reliability out of it however and though I could put down more power I would suspect that high compression turbo would be much more prone to problems.
My primary issue is getting my hands on a decent DD. Honda, Toyota, whatever. something i could also drive in the winter without being concerned about destroying a clean RX chassis. The two winters it has seen have taken a toll but its fixable. I want to make a nice solid ~300ish HP turbo street car out of it and having another car to drive will also give me the ability to do so.
Idk more advice on the current situation, or on the question of TII or 6 port turbo would be appreciated.
also would it be possible to do s5 N/A block, S5 mani and turbo, and S5 LIM with an FD UIM?
If you can find a T2 with a good engine and drivetrain for less than 2k then go for it. Very unlikely that you will though.
My suggestion? If you can get over the common misconception that boosting an NA engine is harder than building a space shuttle then buy an NA engine with good compression for a few hundred, throw it in, drive the car and boost it later on with stock TII parts.
Btw NA parts don't really sell for much. Most of the exterior stuff doesn't go bad on these cars either, including most of the parts you listed. Good luck, and you might want to look into a Toyota instead if the theft rate of Hondas is high in your area. Non interference engines too.
My suggestion? If you can get over the common misconception that boosting an NA engine is harder than building a space shuttle then buy an NA engine with good compression for a few hundred, throw it in, drive the car and boost it later on with stock TII parts.
Btw NA parts don't really sell for much. Most of the exterior stuff doesn't go bad on these cars either, including most of the parts you listed. Good luck, and you might want to look into a Toyota instead if the theft rate of Hondas is high in your area. Non interference engines too.
My primary issue is getting my hands on a decent DD. Honda, Toyota, whatever. something i could also drive in the winter without being concerned about destroying a clean RX chassis. The two winters it has seen have taken a toll but its fixable. I want to make a nice solid ~300ish HP turbo street car out of it and having another car to drive will also give me the ability to do so.
Idk more advice on the current situation, or on the question of TII or 6 port turbo would be appreciated.
also would it be possible to do s5 N/A block, S5 mani and turbo, and S5 LIM with an FD UIM?
Last edited by Aaron Cake; 05-09-09 at 10:55 AM. Reason: Merge two posts
05-07-09, 12:41 AM
#13
^yes that would work but with the proper adapter. Or you could just run a stock UIM...
300whp is CAKE for a 6 port turbo. Run water and methanol injection over 5psi if you're paranoid (basic kit is ~$200), or retard the timing, or run lower boost. Either case the setup would have better response and make more power than a TII engine. In a situation like this, research is your key to saving money.
300whp is CAKE for a 6 port turbo. Run water and methanol injection over 5psi if you're paranoid (basic kit is ~$200), or retard the timing, or run lower boost. Either case the setup would have better response and make more power than a TII engine. In a situation like this, research is your key to saving money.
05-07-09, 04:26 PM
#15
You'll ALWAYS be further ahead to build an engine yourself rather then buying something "compression tested". Aside from a rare case where you know the history of an engine, its local, its cheap etc. you're further ahead to put one together fresh. The benefits are huge - you can use whatever you like as far as specific items (FD corners/springs, maybe comp. control rings springs...oil pump/channel mods) you gain a huge amount of understanding, and the next time you rebuild (because you will unless you leave the rotary game ) you're already setup for it.
An N/A turbo can be done its not difficult, but if you plan to retain reliability on the first build - stay well away from it. A regular turbo engine putting down 50% higher power then stock is already hard enough to keep together for us small timers.
) you're already setup for it.An N/A turbo can be done its not difficult, but if you plan to retain reliability on the first build - stay well away from it. A regular turbo engine putting down 50% higher power then stock is already hard enough to keep together for us small timers.
05-07-09, 04:54 PM
#16
Darn Rotisserie Engines.
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Posts: 152
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
yeah but i figure if i really take my time with the build making sure everything is right and perfect, and use the expertise of others as far as what exactly works and what doesn't, I could have a pretty reliable motor and if I ran it on low boost to get like 300-350 it could be pretty solid. I'm not saying nothing would ever go wrong with it, but it is an RX-7, i accepted that i would be fixing it often when i bought it....
05-07-09, 05:02 PM
#17
Food for thought: (note this is all just discussion)
Low boost (8-10psi) mid size turbo, good ol' turbo engine = 300hp
Low boost (8-10psi) midsize turbo, N/A engine (even just S4 n/a) = 330hp
Which one will last longer assuming that neither will have any issues being tuned (
) or that no mechanical parts ever fail during their life?
Either will be pretty reliable in close to stock power levels, but STILL the N/A engien will be far more suspectible to failure. These engines are more robust then most people think, but it would only take a bad tank of gas, a cold night of boosting, or a vac line popping on an EBC to kiss that engine good bye....trust me on that one.....so why would someone building a project designed around reliability opt for, well less reliability, at the heart of the project? (I know Aaron will tear me one for that )
Yes, a turbo N/A *can be* reliable, but its compression will always make it a little bit less so then a TII engine when talking of even slightly elevated power.
Low boost (8-10psi) mid size turbo, good ol' turbo engine = 300hp
Low boost (8-10psi) midsize turbo, N/A engine (even just S4 n/a) = 330hp
Which one will last longer assuming that neither will have any issues being tuned (
) or that no mechanical parts ever fail during their life?Either will be pretty reliable in close to stock power levels, but STILL the N/A engien will be far more suspectible to failure. These engines are more robust then most people think, but it would only take a bad tank of gas, a cold night of boosting, or a vac line popping on an EBC to kiss that engine good bye....trust me on that one.....so why would someone building a project designed around reliability opt for, well less reliability, at the heart of the project? (I know Aaron will tear me one for that
)Yes, a turbo N/A *can be* reliable, but its compression will always make it a little bit less so then a TII engine when talking of even slightly elevated power.
05-07-09, 08:44 PM
#18
Darn Rotisserie Engines.
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Posts: 152
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
You'll ALWAYS be further ahead to build an engine yourself rather then buying something "compression tested". Aside from a rare case where you know the history of an engine, its local, its cheap etc. you're further ahead to put one together fresh. The benefits are huge - you can use whatever you like as far as specific items (FD corners/springs, maybe comp. control rings springs...oil pump/channel mods) you gain a huge amount of understanding, and the next time you rebuild (because you will unless you leave the rotary game ) you're already setup for it.
An N/A turbo can be done its not difficult, but if you plan to retain reliability on the first build - stay well away from it. A regular turbo engine putting down 50% higher power then stock is already hard enough to keep together for us small timers.
) you're already setup for it.An N/A turbo can be done its not difficult, but if you plan to retain reliability on the first build - stay well away from it. A regular turbo engine putting down 50% higher power then stock is already hard enough to keep together for us small timers.
On another note I was thinking with an in car EBC I would daily drive it with even lower boost than 8-10 and set up a scramble button if I was feeling froggy. would it even be possible to run lower than 8 safely as to keep compression down and reliability up?
05-07-09, 10:21 PM
#19
Food for thought: (note this is all just discussion)
Low boost (8-10psi) mid size turbo, good ol' turbo engine = 300hp
Low boost (8-10psi) midsize turbo, N/A engine (even just S4 n/a) = 330hp
Which one will last longer assuming that neither will have any issues being tuned () or that no mechanical parts ever fail during their life?
Either will be pretty reliable in close to stock power levels, but STILL the N/A engien will be far more suspectible to failure. These engines are more robust then most people think, but it would only take a bad tank of gas, a cold night of boosting, or a vac line popping on an EBC to kiss that engine good bye....trust me on that one.....so why would someone building a project designed around reliability opt for, well less reliability, at the heart of the project? (I know Aaron will tear me one for that )
Yes, a turbo N/A *can be* reliable, but its compression will always make it a little bit less so then a TII engine when talking of even slightly elevated power.
Low boost (8-10psi) mid size turbo, good ol' turbo engine = 300hp
Low boost (8-10psi) midsize turbo, N/A engine (even just S4 n/a) = 330hp
Which one will last longer assuming that neither will have any issues being tuned (
) or that no mechanical parts ever fail during their life?Either will be pretty reliable in close to stock power levels, but STILL the N/A engien will be far more suspectible to failure. These engines are more robust then most people think, but it would only take a bad tank of gas, a cold night of boosting, or a vac line popping on an EBC to kiss that engine good bye....trust me on that one.....so why would someone building a project designed around reliability opt for, well less reliability, at the heart of the project? (I know Aaron will tear me one for that
)Yes, a turbo N/A *can be* reliable, but its compression will always make it a little bit less so then a TII engine when talking of even slightly elevated power.
From the stories I've read here the conditions you described can be fatal to any of these engines, the Jspec engine that blew recently due to lack of FPR signal comes to mind. A bad tank of gas is pretty damn rare, lol and if he gets a standalone I'm sure most of them have a fuel/ignition cut fail-safe at a preset boost level. If they don't he can heatshield and clamp the EBC signal line if he wants lol. Or run a SS line with fittings.
As for the question the answer is easy, COST. NA engines sell for half the price when compared to T2 engines. For the price of a 13BT SHORTBLOCK from the only reputable seller (Japan2LA) he can have a completely rebuilt NA engine. Not only this but he can drive the car NA for as long as he wishes while he saves for the turbo stuff.
MANY 4 port people run the 9.4/9.7s with excellent results. You can run the setup, you just have to be more careful with things and run extra safeguards like less timing, less boost and aux injection. Or even 2 extra injectors, fuel mods and E85 if you're that paranoid and the cars not a daily.
05-07-09, 11:04 PM
#20
Darn Rotisserie Engines.
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Posts: 152
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well I would eventually want to have the car as a daily driver. (though never again after this will I have an RX-7 as my only means of transportation.) I'm of the opinion that with a good amount of time, care, and dedication, I can have a good reliable 6 port turbo making high 200s to low 300s that i can boost up if i want to really have go fast time. i would think with the right set up this is totally possible... (correct me if im wrong here.) btw, i would just love for aaron to chime in here. the kind of time and care he put into project tina is about the attention to detail i would attempt to retain. someone go get him i would love to hear some advice from him.
05-09-09, 10:59 AM
#21
Engine, Not Motor
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: London, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 29,789
Likes: 0
Received 108 Likes
on
91 Posts
I've been PM'd (twice) to reply to this topic. I don't know what more I can add.
In my opinion, a S5 NA turbo won't be reliable. Some have done it, but the vast majority I have seen (on these forums) have blown up in short order. A semi-local owner here went through something like 4 engines trying to get it right.
Give up on mixing and matching FD and 2nd gen parts. No point.
If you want a reliable 300HP with a great torque curve, keep the aux ports functional and use a smallish turbo (GT30R is my choice, but TO4B, etc. will do the job). You'll need to make a custom manifold. Create an adapter to mount the stock TII upper with the NA lower. A standalone is definitely necessary.
In my opinion, a S5 NA turbo won't be reliable. Some have done it, but the vast majority I have seen (on these forums) have blown up in short order. A semi-local owner here went through something like 4 engines trying to get it right.
Give up on mixing and matching FD and 2nd gen parts. No point.
If you want a reliable 300HP with a great torque curve, keep the aux ports functional and use a smallish turbo (GT30R is my choice, but TO4B, etc. will do the job). You'll need to make a custom manifold. Create an adapter to mount the stock TII upper with the NA lower. A standalone is definitely necessary.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post