hsilive

ok so my vert blew i say that coming i have special plans for that anyway my turbo is getting hard to start and exess cooling system pressure i need help as to what i need for a awesome rebuild i want to stick with my setup but upgrade cooling rings and radiator im thinking a four core but dont know what seals would be the absolute best money is the easy part i need to know what to spend it on i want this thing to be able to drop in a volcano and not overheat !!! thanks for everyones help !!!

SirCygnus

iTrader: (1)

whoa whoa whoa there speedy. you didnt even use any punctuation or if you did, not properly. if you want help, please use correct grammar and punctuation. sometimes youll get help from someone who isnt a native english speaker or if someone searches for something similar to what you have going on and they dont speak english, it might be difficult for them to find any info.


to answer your question though, the 7 is kinda a two way street. some have it easy and its hard for them to even get it to overheat. some have theirs overheat at even a mere glance at the temp gauge. so... with that said, if you are overheating on the stock ****, maybe something else is the problem.

hsilive

ok. so my vert blew ! i saw that coming . i have special plans for that anyway !! my turbo is

getting hard to start and has exess cooling system pressure . i need help as to what i need for a

awesome rebuild . i want to stick with my setup , but upgraded cooling rings and radiator ! im

thinking a four core , but dont know what seals would be the absolute best . money is the easy

part. i need to know what to spend it on. i want this thing to be able to drop in a volcano and not

overheat !!! thanks for everyones help !!! i currently have a 3 in koyo radiator stock pump heater

delete and well alot of upgrades but they should be irrelevent. i just want the best shiz i can get as

far as cooling

hsilive

i post from my phone alot sorry

dwb87

iTrader: (22)

Feel free to answer most, all, or any of these questions...


Do you use an OEM thermostat?

Do you use a dual alternator pulley or a "yoohoo" belt?

Clutch fan or electric fan?

Whichever fan you use, do you use a fan shroud?

Do you use the stock undertray?

Do you use a "radiator cooling panel"?

Are you using demineralized water?

What kind of water/coolant mixture are you using?

Do you let your car heat up to full operating temperature BEFORE boosting?

Do you let your car run a bit before shutting it off?

What kind of intercooler set-up are you running?

How often do you flush your water/coolant system?

Have you PROPERLY broken either of these engines in??

hsilive

ok yes i will answer these ? please esxuse my spelling or mistakes

as far as i knw oem thermo but overheated above 1240 once two thermo installed staok and one just past thermostat

lucky 7 pully set i dont trust much prob havining custom one with a tensioner built soon

e fan off a taurus set on high and blowing towards motor

underlay off my 91 vert plus som make shift air daming

radiator cooling panel im guessing refers to my ducting which i made from some sheet aluuiminim

yes pure 50 50 higher grade coolant plus wetter wter additive

always warm up to 180 on alc gauge just after thermostat

always let cooldown before shut off and do a high rev shut off to keep it clean

fmic set up but thinking of v set up for next setup

ive put 3k on the motor done 2 flushes with new coolant and additives one new radiator i hate godspeed shiz

yes it has been broken in at a 6 rpm rev limit for about 600 miles but that was before i bought it

hsilive

btw thanks for your questions please keep up

dwb87

iTrader: (22)

Overheated above 1240?? What does that mean?

It is possible that your FMIC set-up may be part of the problem.

6k RPM rev limit for 600 miles is NOT a proper break-in. Who has built these engines?

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

a volcano is a bit overkill, other things in the engine will still break regardless of my aim being an engine that can withstand 300F and survive. the engine oil will start to coke at about 280-300F in the pan and then the lubrication system will be compromised without any alternative. following that the rotor housings are aluminum and will expand and warp with sustained heat that high, then there is internal combustion temps which will likely cause tons of autoignition(detonation) and either twist the engine to the point of breaking or blow out an apex seal. the aim is to only build the engine for the possibility of an unexpected overheating followed by repair of the cause.

of course keeping temps under control is the first goal.

a larger core radiator is the first step, 2nd would be if you're using A/C is it causing too much heat? ditch it or go with a hybrid setup like a V-mount if you want to keep it. ron davis and fluidyne are the better FC radiators, koyo N flow being third IMO(the cores are weak on koyos) followed last by the typical aluminum koyo upgrade.

problem i see most is the engines are being swapped with used ones, these uncracked(factory built engines) are all just about dead. swapping one with another original is asking for problems. look for a rebuilt engine from a quality builder, almost every single engine i have built is still out there on the road, the ones not i could probably count on one hand.

underdrive pulleys have no place on a street driven car. next a front mount intercooler is going to put the air intake temps higher in priority to coolant temps which is also completely the wrong order in my book. front mounts are for purpose built cars, not daily driven street machines in hot climates. some people opt for front mounts still but i also recommend not doing it for a daily driver car and especially not for one with A/C still under any circumstance.

a V-mount isn't in many people's budgets, so depending on your power goals and climate you may be able to get by with a stock or upgraded stock mount intercooler if using the stock turbo. the minor power gains aren't worth the other headaches unless you have a much larger turbo than stock. the stock mount intercoolers of course will limit the power ceiling to about 250(stock) or 300ish(upgraded stock like ARC).

next is e-fans. they are NOT superior to the stock fan that came on the car. the stock fan puts out more air than you will probably find from ANY large e-fan including the monster taurus fans. my 3000CFM black magic doesn't even hold a candle to the stock thermofan but i moved the radiator so the stock fan wouldn't work any longer, this is the ONLY reason anyone should opt away from the stock thermofan.

if this is in the valley, we see 115F temps fairly regularly, not a rotary haven by any means. keep all the above in mind when dealing with a rotary vehicle out here. mostly what i see out here is failed coolant seals that are the primary cause of the overheating in the first place, ie your overpressurization(may in fact be a failed iron coolant seal wall).

sorry, i was sick and took 2 days off of work.

hsilive

* 240 sorry and lucky 7

hsilive

that was the post i was looking for ! im pushing 340 rwhp with a large turbo running 9 psi and yes with a fmic . lucky 7 built and nelson s tuned haltech ex6 as well . so yes i will go v mount ! also what are the best coolant seals ? i almost want to pull the sides off a sherman tank and use those at the moment !

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

my coolant seals with sleeves are designed to specifically hold together up to 300F and even in the event of an iron seal wall failure still maintain their integrity, although i will say that they were not designed to hold up for as long as a brand new iron with perfect seal wall could do the job of. if it buys a year, 2, 4 or 7 then for the price i could not figure them not being worth it.

the working temperature of the coolant seals is 400F, the tensile strength of the stainless sleeves is negligible up to 800F. any shop can install them.

https://www.rx7club.com/group-buy-pr...ntion-1006993/

hsilive

i like that idea very much ! what else do i need for a proper rebuild and any other little upgrades i should do while its apart ?

beachFC

iTrader: (13)

damn, i wish money was the easy part

Bryan Jacobs

iTrader: (66)

maybe cut cooling fins near the spark plugs areas if it hasn't already been done

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

heat shedding relies on the list i made above, not many mods you can do to the engine itself to correct for it.

i have done the coolant passage mod and the effects on temperatures were literally unnoticeable, that particular mod is to pull heat away from the hottest parts inside the engine to help prevent autoignition/detonation. it's a reliability mod for very high horsepower engines, not a mod to help keep the engine cooler.

tuscanidream

iTrader: (6)

Please use some punctuation. My eyes are going nuts looking at that huge, run-on sentence.

Find an experienced engine builder and talk to them. It is the best advice I can give. I honestly don't even understand what you are asking.

SirCygnus

iTrader: (1)

you didnt even read the whole thread did you?

tuscanidream

iTrader: (6)

Nope. I got frustrated with the original post and stopped there.

hsilive

if you read two post down its double spaced. i post from my phone alot sorry

hsilive

so im going with our friend rotoryevo and buying the cooling ring system he offers as soon as he can get around to me . im interested in the cooling fins around the spark area does anyone have a pic of it ? and still should i go v mount ? and what about 4 core radiator ? please any suggestions are helpful and considered !