Hey guys. Hows it going? Well i got tuned by steve kan yesterday and the car is running great..but i noticed i wasnt building boost to 12psi until about 3k..and then full boost at 3400-3500...which i feel is WAY to high for the stock turbo. Ive heard the twin scroll actuator makes it spool much faster...where do i hook that line up too? Pressure or relief side of the manifold? Also...I have a microtech installed...and when you do..you have to run a wire from a relay to get power to the pump...so i did that and now i have no gas guage. I see the wires and all that need to be hooked up...But how do i hook them up...I guess since i took power away from the stock harness it doesnt work anymore...What do i hook them up to? Thanks alot!

 

I may be speaking out of turn here, but wouldn't this mess up your Steve Kan tune and make the car run really lean if the boost comes in earlier?

I wouldn't mess with this if I were you, unless you can just have him retune it as soon as you get the twin scroll working.

 

How high are you boosting on the stock turbo?

 

^^ 12psi... and jackhild...i belive you are right...i didnt even think about that. Ill look into it. Any ideas about the gas guage?

 

no it won't affect the tune but as far as i know there is no output that you can use to run the solenoid to switch the twin scroll properly anyways with the microtech but that depends on which series microtech you have.

 

Just reconnect the fuel pump plug back up to where it was stock. Whatever you did with the power wire for the pump, just route it around the fuel pump plug.

There's no PUMP involved with the twin scroll solenoid. There's a vacuum line to the actuator from the twin scroll solenoid. There is vacuum on that line as long as the rpm is under 2800 rpm. Above that the vacuum is removed from the actuator by the solenoid.

You mean to tell me that Mickeyteck can't output a signal to a simple solenoid at a given rpm???? Eeeeeek. So much for StandAlones.

 

the LT8 is a basic basic standalone, it can control some basic functions like a BAC duty cycle output but i don't recall seeing any type of RPM activated outputs, not that it can't be done with one of the other outputs like for the gauges at set RPMs but that was not the original intent for those circuits output so i'm not sure if they could support a solenoid activation, perhaps through a relay though.

i only recommend the microtech if you only need basic functions, it has been proven on plenty of high output applications but the LT8(most commonly used) has very little versatility for various outputs.

 

the microtech install should not have affected the fuel gauge btw, you inadvertantly cut one of the sender wires i will bet, iirc the gauge signal wire is the blue wire at the pump, check to see you cut any extra wires at the pump. all you needed to do was splice in a feed wire to the pump 12V wire which is the black wire with white tracer, 2 of the other 4 wires go to the sender unit and obviously the 4th is the ground for the pump.

 

You mean vacuum side; there's no relief...

The twin-scroll actuator is operated manifold vacuum, but you can't just connect it up to the manifold because it won't work properly. The flap would simply open when you put your foot down rather than at a particular rpm like it should, which would be pointless. You need to connect the actuator to the manifold via a check-valve and an ECU-switched solenoid just like the stock set-up. Let me know if you need to know how.

There are four wires at the fuel pump plug: fuel pump power, fuel gauge sender, low-fuel warning light sender and (importantly) the ground for all three. Although there shouldn't have been any need to mess with the ground wire when you wired up the fuel pump, it sounds like you have. Make sure the ground wire from the fuel pump harness is grounded and the gauge should work.

Not if the fuel map has been fully tuned. All combinations of load and rpm should have a suitable amount of fuel.

 

whats the solenoid?
and could you post up how to hook the twinscroll up plz!

 

any one plz

 

Hook it up exactly as per the schematic on page 4B-53 on the FSM, making sure the solenoid valve sonnections are right and the check valve allows air to flow towards the manifold.

Note that searching the 2nd Gen section for "twin-scroll" would find you the dozens of other threads I've said exactly the same thing...