I have read a few places about how the cost of adding a turbo almost equals the cost of doing a comlete t2 swap (driveline, engine, harness etc etc) What I dont understand, is how this is possible..?
Seems like its just mostly fabbing the spacer for the Turbo manifold, and buying the turbo and turbo parts, along with fuel pump and injectors, and, well just some more fabricating (plumbing coolant and oil to the turbo, custom IC piping, etc.).
It seems like you could do this project without breaking 1grand.
How does this price compare with the full blow T2 swap?

 

I don't believe it would cost the same, I'm going to go for this and hopefully do it for like 500-600 ish, and that's with ss oil lines and making all the piping for the ic and the spacer myself. I wouldn't be surprised if it hit 700 though, things always come up.

A full TII swap should be more than that, if you want a GOOD motor.

 

Oh, and I'm planning on making the downpipe myself too

 

Wow, i definetly want pictures
I'm planning on doing this instead of supercharging. I figure our engines are more suited for turbo anyway. But I need to hit the books quite a bit more before I jump into something like this, or SonicRat will make fun of me

 

I'll provide plenty of pics once I actually do it. I have everything planned out in my head and know all the parts I need.

I'm still contemplating whether to do the turbo first or my other projects, these are my options:

Turbo'd 6 port first and drive it hard till i blow my motor

Full rebuild with very large streetport (done by myself) with an aluminum flywheel and koyo radiator at the same time, along with an RB street oil pressure regulator (85psi iirc)


I really want to do the full rebuild and port first, so I can break it in properly with absolutely no boost. Plus a large streetported 6port will spool the turbo crazy fast. The only thing stopping me is the cost With all I want to do during the porting/rebuild, its expensive, like I'm calculating somewhere around 1500 or more (this includes cost of special tools I'll need). If I went the route of the full rebuild and stuff first, I'd save up enough money to do the turbo conversion the way I really want, with a BNR stage 1 or 2 to start out with

 

Instead of the spacer.....have you considered buying a turbo lwr and upper intake w/throttle body? And matching the lwr intake manifold to the six ports with a dremel motor? These parts are not part of the normal spacer method, but they are not that expensive. Look on ebay or in the parts section of this site. I think Hypertenz has some of these items for sale right now.

For what its worth, I think the fuel pump can wait if your installing a regular stock turbo. I did the turbo swap on one car and ran the stock series four pump and the car ran rich. Too rich. Normal series four too rich. I bought a SAFC to lean things out by quite a bit.

I'm going this route for one reason. One very good reason. I have to pass emissions each year. With the series four lwr intake manifold I can mount the acv and make it functional. With the spacer idea....no acv. Most people are not interested in making the car emissions leagal, so they don't consider this and go with the spacer route.

The only thing bothering me is how to mount the oil return line for the turbo....without hacking up the turbo return line. I notice there is a BOSS on the front of the front cover. I drilled and tapped a hole in a spare 12a front cover and I can see where/how I could mount a 90 degree union there and run a hose b/t there and the turbo oil return line. P.S. It's gotta be a large return line or pressure will build in the turbo and blow oil out the rear, from what I understand.

 

I thought about the manifold idea, but I really didn't want to go that route. It seems easier, but the only issue I see is correctly matching the LIM from a turbo to the 5th/6th ports. Other than that, it is a great idea. Since you will probably get to this before I do, please let me know once you do this and how it worked out. If all worked out well, I may just do the same, to make things easier.

As far as emissions, I have to stay legal too But my plans were a walbro fuel pump (except during emissions swapping in a turbo pump) 550cc primaries and 720 or 850cc secondaries, tuned with a wideband 02/logger and my s-afc, manual boost controller set to 10-13psi. All of this with no emissions equipment. When emissions time rolls around I would swap in my bonez high flow cat in place of the test pipe (the downpipe I will be making will be 3" tapered to 2.5" btw, so it will mate up with the bonez cat), turn the boost controller to nothing and let the turbo boost to whatever psi my system has it go to, and then put in my airpump and run a line straight from the airpump to the split air pipe. This is how I passed emissions this year with FLYING colors, so I should be fine doing this. If I cant pass emissions, however, I will take out the bigger injectors, fab up a pipe to go from the turbo manifold to the downpipe, and take out the turbo. Then I'd lean out the s-afc and easily pass. This is a hassle for some, but since I have two cars I'd just put my car down for a week or two and do a little work each day before emissions time comes, then put it all back together.

 

Is it difficult to port match the T2 intake to the 6port? You would think that this has been tried before...anyone have info on this?

 

how much can i get the Stock T2 (t14?) turbo for usually?

 

I have a 91 vert N/A wich I turbo charged.
My cost including rebuilt was about $2,200.

Rebuilt $710
Turbo $400.
BOV $ 80.
Wastegate $100.
Manifold $100.
Gaskets $ 40.
Bolts/nuts $ 20.
Spacer $ 60.
FMIC $100.
Pipeing/IC & DP $240.
TB adapter $ 80.
Fuel Pump $ 90.
Injectors $100
Silicone rubber $ 20


And yes, you can put a T2 UIM on a 6 port (Hondakiller)

 

That part I've done. The na had a metal lower intake gasket. I layed it over the turboii lower intake manifold. Got the Dremel Motor out with several drums of sixty grit and a scribe. Took about two hours off and on. Maybe four drums for the dremel. Cost probably three bucks in material. Well, maybe five. Those drums cost a bunch!

That's for using a complete tuboii lower, upper intake and turbo throttle body. Advantage is in keeping the acv and making it easier to supply the water to the turbo. You just drill out what looks to be a freeze plug on the rear rotor housing on the na rotor housing to supply the water to the turbo thru the turbo lower intake manifold.

The acv won't be functional unless other modifications are made to feed the air from the acv to the front and rear end housings. REquires a drill, a tap and some ingenuity to plumb the air to the right place. I can almost guarantee that I'm the only person that even thinks about doing that.

 

Would you mind posting pictures of the TII LIM after you port matched it? I'm curious to see how it turned out and what it looks like and all. If you could that'd be awesome, thanks.

 

Cost can be more or less then a TII swap. It all depends on where you get your parts, how ghetto the installation is, etc.

I would think that I spent around $2500-$3000. That included the turbo, all parts, S-AFC, contracted welding (the adapter), tool rental, etc. Also some extras like stainless braided oil cooler lines.

If you have the turbo around and can make your own manifold, then make "ghetto" intercooler piping (ie. rubber bends or ABS pipe), salvage an intercooler and injectors, etc., then the project can be done very cheaply....

Also, don't assume you can pass emissions. You will no longer be able to run the emssion system on the car. Pumping air into the cat may or may not work, depending on how strict your tests are.

 

i just wanted to know would it be good for the motor if i turbo`d a 86 motor, or should i just get the a new 87 TII motor,trans and turbo.

 

thx for the reply aaron, its good to have you post in my thread since youve done this already.

Well ill start gathering the pieces as I educate myself more and more

 

Like Aaron said it's all dependant on how far you go.

My swap has cost me over $6k.

I went with a Jspec Core then rebuilt it.
Then walbro,Koyo,cleaned injectors,new waterpump,BOV,Tii tranny,hybrid driveshaft,etc.........

The engine alone cost be about $2000 after getting the core and rebuilding.

If you wanted to cheap out.
I could have gone with a Jspec and cross my fingers on it's health and save a lot of money.

 

I would never do this, and im sure you wouldnt either, its just not worth it. If at anytime you buy a used rotary engine, in most cases, its a good idea to just rebuild it before you put it in, to save time and money

 

I'm pretty sure I can do it for less that 2500-3000, and I'm not planning on doing it the "cheap" way by any means. Since I do not care about when exactly I start this project, I've been gathering parts here and there when they are going for a good price, I watch the for sale/wanted section daily as well as ebay, for any parts that are on my list for a good price. I'm going to make the downpipe myself out of header steel from ebay (3" u-bends going for around 20 bucks) and then I'm going to make the intercooler piping myself usuing aluminum piping and silicone couplers, again ebay (you can buy tubes of 1 to 4 foot long silicone and cut the couplers to length, and you can also get 90 degree bent couplers for pretty good prices).

Since I'm doing all the work myself and not pressed for time (so I can wait for good prices) I am hoping to do this in the 700 dollar range, or course I wouldnt be surprised if it ended up higher.

 

It's almost taken me 8 months to finish my TII conversion. I mainly do the work on the weekends though. Then there were the cop out weekends where I left it.

I got the engine in the car in like April but haven't gotten it fully street ready yet. Hopefully it will be ready this weekend.

I;ve done all the work myself including polishing the manifolds,tb mod,rewiring bad harness. The only stuff done by others is the rebuild for the turbo and engine.

 

Here's my hacked up turbo lwr intake manifold. Notice the cavity that has to be filled. I filled it with silver solder, the kind you buy at the hardware store for plumbing solder jobs. Attached is a jpg of the cavity and if the forum is willing followed by the cavity filled. Maybe. I have no patience today with this site. http://www.teamfc3s.org/forum/showth...threadid=31037

http://www.teamfc3s.org/forum/showth...threadid=31036

Just remember this before being critical....the six port has two holes with a bridge b/t them. That bulge you see is where the bridge goes. Comprede? It's a work in progress.

 

I'm well under $1,000 on mine.

Edited so people don't get wrong info if they search.

I'll probably be going the TII LIM/UIM route, as I'm planning on putting a full T04E on. I need more power! At this point, I'm pretty much expecting to tear the rear apart or lose a half-shaft (or driveshaft). We'll see!

 

HAILERS: The water flows the other direction, it comes in from the waterpump, and out through the intake manifold

You sure about that? I gotta go take another look. I was sure it came into the manifold thru the large approx 1 1/2 hole and exited the small line at the front of the turbo assy. Hmmm. That actually goes against what is normal though. Usually the pressure side is a smaller dia than the return.....so you are maybe/probably right. I gotta go take a look......later that is.

 

hey guys when you are talkin about rebuilding are you rebuilding to factory NA specs???

just wondering because I will be pickin up an 87 NA and I want to turbo when the motor goes down... so the question is should I just do a full NA rebuild or is there a way to swap in the turbo rotors to lower the compression(or do I need too)

-non

 

Wow, it appears I'm wrong. I must've read the diagram incorrectly when I looked at it. Stock it flows the way you described. Wonder how bad it is that I'm running it in the other direction?

Ok, don't listen to me, I'm an idiot

 

Hrm, that was lame. Damn forum keeps doubleposting when I don't even click twice!