MarkPerez

i'm a noob to 2ed gens but i've found that on the stock innercooler if the underside of the innercoolers metal ' shield' is removed it allows more air to flow through the innercooler instead of being blocked by that piece of metal. the idea is air to flow through not be stopped and that is what that piece of metal does.IMO.

Icemark

except you get the intercooler hot sinked from the engine heat when you remove the lower sheild

zeromage428

slap!!! icemark strikes again

FB II

yep, that was put there to help prevent heat soak. which it doesnt do the greatest job, but by removing that you are just making it so much worse.

MarkPerez

i can understand that. i'm looking at it like : the better place is not over the engine. i have 2 innercoolers, one with and one without the metal. it does sink the heat and holds it, thats what a heat sink or shield does. when air passes through the cooler and blocked right after that the cooler isn't getting enough room or space for air to flow. the air flows through the fins not just too the fins and then stop or blocked the flow. a radiator is meant for air to flow through.
imagine the cooling systems radiator with such a piece of material blocking the air flow. it wouldn't work too well. a radiator needs room and a good fresh air supply.
turbo model cars all have more underhood heat by design adding more metal means more mass to heat up and more mass means it takes longer to cool..
it makes sense....

88RX27

So is it better to remove the shield or leave it alone?

Terrh

iTrader: (7)

a much better idea is to remove the whole shebang and front mount it.

SnowmanSteiner

Okay first the design of the hood scoop on the TII is pathetic, so it doesn't get enough air flow as it is. With the design of the scoop you are not going to overflow the capacity of the heat sheild. Even if you did you are going to get much higher temps by removing it. It's there to keep as much heat away from the intercooler as possible, remove it, and you are just going to heat soak the intercooler worse.

- Steiner

FB II

and muffins.

Terrh

iTrader: (7)

WOW!

yes, and muffins, omg, how could I have forgotten?

NZConvertible

What method did you use to prove this? Did you measure the pressure differential between the top and bottom surfaces of the intercooler or did you measure the post-intercooler intake temps? Or did you just assume...

SureShot

If you do the TB mod, including removing the dash pot, you will have some extra clearance to open up heat shield exit path.
That's about the best you can do.

Another option is an S5 J-spec TMIC.

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

there are differances between the tmic's???? I had no idea I always thought they where the same. Strange.

MarkPerez

method to proove this,,,,,,i don't have numbers to back up my findings, what i do have is one turboII, two innercoolers. having to replace the cooling systems radiator lately i started thinking about the fins on radiators. you know how the fins get bent flat ? oil coolers get this alot and i've made efforts on both of my rx's to straighten the fins on all radiators.anybody would agree that straight fins allows the air to pass through, where as a flat fin blocks the air from flowing freely.i have 2 stock top mount t2 innercoolers, i drilled the rivits out on one innercooler and removed the metal,,shield,sink,bracket whatever it's called and used a regular house fan on high and held up one innercooler at a time in front of the air flow. one the air passed through the radiator and the other with the metal did not pass air through. so i installed the one without the metal on the car. and believe it or not i could feel the difference in how the car pulled that little innercooler was working for as much air the hood scoope can scratch off the air flow over the car at speed. i would call it a performance gain i stumbled upon..
i'm not a kid ,and giving false information is not my gig. i will say that if whoever uses a top mounted innercooler to try it without the metal piece and see what you think. it can always be re-installed back on..looking at the yamaguchi book i also think the air intake could use some help. my t2 didn't have the tray under the radiator/engine so i'm going to fabricate one from 16 guage aluminum here soon.

i used to own a 1969 shelby gt350, a 1993 eclipse gs turbo ( i don't like front wheel drive) and used to work in a automotive machine shop. all aspects of internal cumbustion engines and am a member of the ford drag club(old school) and my favorite production car is the 1964 427 hi-riser ford fairlane(thunderbolt)
i produce 10 lb. fibreglass hoods and other body panels for the 1st gen,i vent headlight lids with the customers choice of a NACA duct or other vent styles for $40.00 dollors with no core charge along with custom taillights and front and rear strut bar braces. soon to produce carbon fibre storage bin lids. i traded my 1984 GSL-SE straight across for this turboII i now own. yes,,,a noob to 2ed gens and when i get the body kit and wheels this t2 should be pretty cool,,,,,, soon

SureShot,, you sound very knowledgable.

Icemark

But the thing you are missing Mark , is that you do not want engine air to flow through the intercooller like it would through the radiator.

Engine air = hot
Outside air = cooler

So if you don't want the intercooller to get hot, you want to shield it from the engine air.

MarkPerez

is it possible to mount one of these innercoolers up front ? ever hear of someone doing this? isn't it just a matter of plumbing ? it's no problem to tig up some mounting brackets . i totally favor all the feedback.
Icemark , your in california, right? did you attend SS7 ?

SureShot

Shane at Rotaryworks.com pointed it out to me last Spring.
The later years & the J-specs had a slightly thicker IC core than the early A-specs.

My 91 A-spec & the S5 J-spec in it now were the same.

walken

iTrader: (6)

Or you could weld your two intercooler cores together and mount it up front.

Digi7ech

iTrader: (1)

Hmmm...

Me thinks I will get some insulant stuff and lay it on the back of the IC shield to help prevent direct heat soak.

There will be indirect engine bay air but it should help a little bit right?

I can really tell when the IC gets heat soaked here in AZ. It's still in the 90's during the day.

Icemark

Yes you can use the intercooller up front, but you want to triple the size, as the extra length of the pipe run radically lowers the efficency.

Yes I was at 7 stock and yes I live in Northern CA

SureShot

Here we go:
some of this stuff on the bottom ot the TMIC heat shield & the rest on areas near the turbo.
http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...c+mat&x=15&y=8

SDrotary-FC

if your going to all the touble on mounting up front i would go with a larger IC , i have the S5 jpsec one you can use and see if it helps any - chris @ spd racing , ramona

steve84GS TII

Heres a little additional tidbit about that shield.
Not only does it act as a poor heatshield,but its also a rain gutter.Without it,water entering from the hood scoop will run down onto the block,injector sockets and other undesirable places.Be it from a wash job,rain or leaking scoop seals,water will get in there.
I learned this from icing my stock IC between runs and noting how the melted ice ran down the backside of the shield along an intentional gutter groove in the shield.In place,the shield runs the water back onto the bellhousing and down the tranny's side.

Snrub

iTrader: (1)

I disagree. http://www.geocities.com/jeffguilfoil/tmic.html