I'm gathering all of the parts to turbo my N/A vert. I have the upper lower intake, fuel rail, injectors, front engine cover, and exhaust.

I'm also obtaining the ECU, but I don't know which sensors I specifically need.

What else do I need for this endevour?

 

my question is what year is the vet? sec of all you can boost your N/A engine but 5 psi is like the safest you can run unless the engine is rebuild with better internals. and third stock turbo ecu is gonna but like i said before N/A max psi is 5 psi unless is built. and dont try to run 87 **** gas on it or goes kaboom on you

 

If you do a search for threads by AaronCake, you'll see all the progress he made turbocharging his NA. I think he even has a part of his website dedicated to it: http://www.aaroncake.net/RX-7/naturbo.htm

 

You do know that the TII manifolds don't bolt up to the NA engine, right? It sounds like you just got the turbo manifolds and were going to slap them on your block, which doesn't work.

 

^^^^ True that. But, alas, it's not that hard. Put some paint (or RTV) on your block, around where the intake ports are, and put the turbo lower intake manifold up against it. Then pull it off, and woot! You now have an outline of where your ports need to end up. Same way you port-match...


If your going to really do this, why not go the aestetically pleasing way, and use S5 T2 LIM and FD UIM+TB? :-D All the cool kids are doing it mang! xD

 

it bolts up, you need to port the intake to match the ports on the engine. david randall did it and i have a page on my cardomain of how to doit

 

Yeah, my wording was bad. I realise it bolts up, but the ports dont match up, which is what I meant. I just figured that if he didn't know that they didn't match, then port matching might be out of his scope.

 

What you MIGHT do, is offer up to the turbo intake manifold, the gasket for a n/a six port engine.

When you do, you'll realize there is a large chunk of metal on the turbo intake that needs to be removed so air will flow in that area. If you look at one of the jpg I attached you'll see where I put red x's. That is where the excess metal is.

A Dremel motor with a sanding drum will work just fine on aluminum metal removal in that area.

Also in one jpg I attached, is an area shown with a BLUE line around it. The turbo intake has a CAVITY in that area. I decided to fill it in with METAL. I poured the metal at one fill so there won't be any flaking off of several pourings of metal. The metal WILL stay in place and not migrate because I WILL IT TO STAY IN PLACE! Acutally there are divots in the void area the metal got poured, so it CAN'T move and migrate anywhere much less flake off like say, Devcon or JBWELD might.

In the last jpg I layed the gasket over the gutted out holes, and it more or less is in the finished stage. The gasket isn't aligned perfectly because it's hard to put a intake manifold with loose gasket on a scanner and have it perfect.

The big ACV outlet rectangle at the middle/bottom is going to get filled in and the ACV air is SOMEHOW going to be routed to the front and rear side housings like its routed on a n/a engine (series four engine, series five is different).

Oh yeah. See the two OVAL intake ports in the middle of the gasket/manifold? See the bolt hole just above them? That bolt hole does not exist on a n/a engine. So I drilled and tapped a hole in that area using the maifold as a pattern.

I'm also going to drill a hole in the rear rotor housing so water can flow to the turbo, much like a real turbo housing. You know, where the red RTV is smeared on the gasket. That area.

EDIT: Looking at the jpg with the metal gasket, I just realized I'm going to lose my primary injector air bleed. Oh well, I think Ill ditch that metal gasket and make my own paper gasket. It'll seal the water passage better anyway.

 

This question has never been asked or pondered on this forum before. Ever.

 

so do i have to port the manifold of the block, grrrrrrrr this is frusterating

 

This is one of those times when, if you have to ask, you shouldnt be trying. Not saying that to be an ***, but to be honest.

 

You have to gutout/port the intake manifold to match the gasket shown in the picture. In the jpgs I delibertly put RED slashes in the area of the intake manifold to show how much material has to be removed.

A Dremel motor with a course drim will remove the metal fairly quick. You have to watchout for the thickness of the walls so you don't grind through the walls. You can control that by taking a 1/16 drill bit and drilling thru the thinest wall, then as you grind insert the drill bit thru the hole you created and measure how much material is left, to keep from grinding thru the wall.

It's the area in the top hole that has to be ground out.

Just go buy a intake manifold and get a idea of what needs to be done.

IN other words the block does not get ground on/out.

IF you look at the middle picture, you'll see some BLUE lines. This area is filled with molten metal in my case. This area originaly had a Depression/Hole in the area where the blue lines are. It makes sense to fill this area in so you can have a better port when your done. Some people fill it with JBWELD/DEVCON/You name it. I couldn't live with that.

 

change that "of the manifold" to "or the manifold"

 

check out my OLD OLD thread on the other forum. I used parts from a Cartech Turbo kit.

http://forum.teamfc3s.org/showthread.php?t=24108

 

ok now i see. maybe i should just send it to some one so they can dremmel it.... im not too handy with a dremmel

 

ill pay with in reason for this to be machined

 

Why not just pay within reason for the correct engine and accessories to begin with?

 

because i want to tryit my way, because im stubborn

 

ok so i got the intake off and looked at it and it really doesnt look all that difficult to machine, so ill have pics up soonest

 

I take that to mean you've the n/a intake off. If so, then remove the gasket from the n/a and offer it up to the turbo intake and it should look similar to the jpg I attached above.

If you have the turbo intake in hand, then you can see the cavity that I filled in. Using a Dremel with a course drum works pretty good and fairly fast. Takes maybe ten drums or less. Take care not to grind thru the intake runners.

If you can, post a picture of the turbo manifold. The face that mates with the enigne, thank you..

EDIT: By the way, the turbo is water cooled and there is no water return nipple on the water pump housing for that on a n/a water pump. There's several ways around that, but one that came to mind this last week is that you could route a hose from the turbo discharge to the water nipple on the BACK of the water pump housing. Same size hose. That would make for a simple solution. You'd lose the water from the rear rotor housing to the BAC then to that nipple on the back of the water pump, so you'd have to decide it it's worth that or not. OR you could buy a tee and use both.

 

yea when I finnaly saw that setup... was the most tiggerrigged setup ever.

if you have hoses running accross engine bay, using spacers, brackets, random washers, epoxy, etc. to make **** fit, THATS GHETTO!!! you put that crap under load and it's gonna spit like nasty zit.

You are anything but custom fabricator my friend.

I'm not even talking about wiring, because thats category on its own.


For first timers, dont try to custom fabricate (it's harder than you think), use as much as stock turbo 2 pars as possible.

You can fit turbo2 engine (even series 5) and run it with NA wiring with Turbo ECU, everything is 100% BOLT ON, NO NEED TO MAKE IT HARDER USING 6 PORT BLOCK.

 

Heh. Then it's nice to know that the "triggerrigged" setup ran for about 20K of serious abuse on the track and as a daily driver, ran 12s, got better mileage then it did when stock and had no failures associated with the turbo install except for a slit oil return hose. Not bad considering that it was just a "proof of concept" prototype.

Please, insult my wiring.

Yep.

Or do it properly with a standalone and new harness...

 

Own3d

 

ill get a pic up soon. iv noticed someone has allready done some work on this manifold and filled a few things. thanks for all the help sofar guys

 

Just because welfair pays for peoples food because there to lazy dosent make it the best idea. Nor does "politicaly correct" triggerrigged setup as it is indeed one of the most hacked jobs ever.