Turbo ... zoom zoom
Turbo ... zoom zoom
Well, I think I will bolt on a damn snail to my car...
It's not my favour, but anything to quiet down the damn car....
Here's the dealio...
For the oil lines of the turbo, do you think it's ok to run the fc3s.org oil pedestial and get an oil feed from there?
As for the oil return line, I was thinking of tapping into the oil cooler banjo bolt. What do you guys think?
As for the coolant line, feed line would be from the TB and return line will be on the turbo water pump. (I still have the one from the jspec).
To keep the cost down, I was just thinking of using a stock S5 turbo/manifold with a ported wastegate on the RB turbo spacer, this will probably keep me from blowing up my engine from turning the boost up.
As for fuel and timing, I am planning to run 550cc primary and 680cc secondaries controled by the SAFC.
SAFC will be ran off the boost sensor rather then the TPS.
I am also contemplating on using the N370 ecu rather then my N350 ecu so that I can retard timing on boost. The NA specific pins (aux ports/vdi), and TII specific pins (boost controller/knock sensor) will be taken care of. I will run a sheilded line from the knock sensor to the ecu so I don't hack up the harness. I will also be running the N370 afm and N370 boost sensor. It will plug up to the harness but I was wondering if there is anything I should look into?
As for IC, I will be running one off a Audi 5000 with custom pipes, HKS SSQBOV.
What do you guys think?
Car = 1990 GXL
It's not my favour, but anything to quiet down the damn car....
Here's the dealio...
For the oil lines of the turbo, do you think it's ok to run the fc3s.org oil pedestial and get an oil feed from there?
As for the oil return line, I was thinking of tapping into the oil cooler banjo bolt. What do you guys think?
As for the coolant line, feed line would be from the TB and return line will be on the turbo water pump. (I still have the one from the jspec).
To keep the cost down, I was just thinking of using a stock S5 turbo/manifold with a ported wastegate on the RB turbo spacer, this will probably keep me from blowing up my engine from turning the boost up.
As for fuel and timing, I am planning to run 550cc primary and 680cc secondaries controled by the SAFC.
SAFC will be ran off the boost sensor rather then the TPS.
I am also contemplating on using the N370 ecu rather then my N350 ecu so that I can retard timing on boost. The NA specific pins (aux ports/vdi), and TII specific pins (boost controller/knock sensor) will be taken care of. I will run a sheilded line from the knock sensor to the ecu so I don't hack up the harness. I will also be running the N370 afm and N370 boost sensor. It will plug up to the harness but I was wondering if there is anything I should look into?
As for IC, I will be running one off a Audi 5000 with custom pipes, HKS SSQBOV.
What do you guys think?
Car = 1990 GXL
That would be sweet.....if it'll run my OMP.... 
Furthermore, I'll have to switch to S4 electronics and that's not good
Another question..
Should I retard the timing by a little to compansate for the added compression?

Furthermore, I'll have to switch to S4 electronics and that's not good

Another question..
Should I retard the timing by a little to compansate for the added compression?
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 29,798
Likes: 128
From: London, Ontario, Canada
How did you like the stock TII turbo on your car? Or it just don't provide enough power? I was at CP over the weekend and saw a boosted 1st gen with a S5 NA motor running an ebay OBX manifold. Looks very nice. However, he I still running the stock S5 turbo.
Another issue I am trying to solve is the wastegate actuator arm hitting the frame of the car. Again, I am thinking of using the OBX manifold and going with an external wastegate and a T04e 57 trim turbo. My goal is around 300ish rwhp.
Anyone want to shine some light?
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 29,798
Likes: 128
From: London, Ontario, Canada
Originally posted by pd_day
Dude, I've read that like 20x already…haha. Also, I have studied how you, Bambam7 and White_FC boosted their NA. The ECU of choice for you and White_FC was a Microtec, Bambam7 stuck with the stock ECU with SAFC. I am planning on using the N370 ecu and wanted to see if there are anything that I should know before I plug it in....
Dude, I've read that like 20x already…haha. Also, I have studied how you, Bambam7 and White_FC boosted their NA. The ECU of choice for you and White_FC was a Microtec, Bambam7 stuck with the stock ECU with SAFC. I am planning on using the N370 ecu and wanted to see if there are anything that I should know before I plug it in....
How did you like the stock TII turbo on your car? Or it just don't provide enough power?
I was at CP over the weekend and saw a boosted 1st gen with a S5 NA motor running an ebay OBX manifold. Looks very nice. However, he I still running the stock S5 turbo.

Another issue I am trying to solve is the wastegate actuator arm hitting the frame of the car. Again, I am thinking of using the OBX manifold and going with an external wastegate and a T04e 57 trim turbo. My goal is around 300ish rwhp.
Last edited by Aaron Cake; Mar 30, 2004 at 10:34 AM.
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Joined: Dec 2001
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From: NY, MA, MI, OR, TX, and now LA or AZ!
I don't think the oil feed into the oil cooler would be a good idea, since that's under pressure. Just run it straight into the front cover. (Or just buy a TII front cover like I did). Here's a question, which side should I tap, cold side or hotside of the oil cooler for my feed? I'll be hauling my car to a dyno once it's all done, i'll have a slightly different setup than Aaron, but close enough. S5 turbo, s4 6port block, starion IC, 550 & 720's, FD pump. Oh, stock ECU & s-afc to control it (n338/whatever the s4 vert # is)
Last edited by SonicRaT; Mar 30, 2004 at 10:39 AM.
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 29,798
Likes: 128
From: London, Ontario, Canada
If you are going to tap the oil cooler, ideally you wan to tap the cold (bottom) side. Tapping the cooler is a pain, so you probably wan to tap the banjo bolt instead. You can minimize the oil hose length by tapping it at the engine instead of the cooler. That way, you can loop the hose up over the engine and directly to the turbo, instead of around the entire front of the car.
As for feeding into the cooler, it cannot be done. The oil drain on the turbo must see zero backpressure (or close to it). Only place it can be drained is into the front cover or oil pan. Doing a front cover job is more of a pain and more dangerous then simply tapping the oil pan...
As for feeding into the cooler, it cannot be done. The oil drain on the turbo must see zero backpressure (or close to it). Only place it can be drained is into the front cover or oil pan. Doing a front cover job is more of a pain and more dangerous then simply tapping the oil pan...
Well, I do have a TII front cover, however, I think it would be a PITA to change it out.
Taping the oil pan would be the easiest for the oil drain line I'd think.
And I'll be probably be tapping the cold side of the oil cooler for the feed instead of using the oil pesdestial.
Aaron, when you said you ran high to mid 12's, how much boost were you running?
Taping the oil pan would be the easiest for the oil drain line I'd think.
And I'll be probably be tapping the cold side of the oil cooler for the feed instead of using the oil pesdestial.
Aaron, when you said you ran high to mid 12's, how much boost were you running?
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 29,798
Likes: 128
From: London, Ontario, Canada
A front cover job in the car is a major annoyance. It's easier (in my opinion) to just remove the engine. Also, you need to pay attention to the torrington bearings.
My best runs were at 11-12 PSI. Note that I was on the very edge of detonation. Not enough fuel.
No idea about max power, but it's generally agreed that 12PSI is the limit for the stock turbo. Guessing that 12.5 is about 275 RWHP.
My best runs were at 11-12 PSI. Note that I was on the very edge of detonation. Not enough fuel.
No idea about max power, but it's generally agreed that 12PSI is the limit for the stock turbo. Guessing that 12.5 is about 275 RWHP.
dam that is a good time aaron. I only ran a 14.2 at 101.8mph. That was my 4th try and I think the boost ramped to 8psi. Maybe If I'm not to much of a chicken I should have tried 11 to 12psi.
Can't wait to see the car done. Never did get to see it before!
Can't wait to see the car done. Never did get to see it before!
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 10,630
Likes: 3
From: NY, MA, MI, OR, TX, and now LA or AZ!
Originally posted by Aaron Cake
A front cover job in the car is a major annoyance. It's easier (in my opinion) to just remove the engine. Also, you need to pay attention to the torrington bearings.
My best runs were at 11-12 PSI. Note that I was on the very edge of detonation. Not enough fuel.
No idea about max power, but it's generally agreed that 12PSI is the limit for the stock turbo. Guessing that 12.5 is about 275 RWHP.
A front cover job in the car is a major annoyance. It's easier (in my opinion) to just remove the engine. Also, you need to pay attention to the torrington bearings.
My best runs were at 11-12 PSI. Note that I was on the very edge of detonation. Not enough fuel.
No idea about max power, but it's generally agreed that 12PSI is the limit for the stock turbo. Guessing that 12.5 is about 275 RWHP.
I would say not to use the oil cooler lines for the oil return.
It's gravity drain so you want a good flow through there.
I would recommend to tap the oil pan.
It will have an unhindered/non pressurized route.
The oil cooler could give the return line some resistance possibly causing oil pooling and smoking from the turbo.
The oil inlet from a RB pedastal sounds good.
The stock part comes from the front side of the drivers side any way. Not much more distance.
I recommend a 4an inlet line and 10 an return line.
4an might be too big if the restrictor pill inside the stock turbo is removed.
It's gravity drain so you want a good flow through there.
I would recommend to tap the oil pan.
It will have an unhindered/non pressurized route.
The oil cooler could give the return line some resistance possibly causing oil pooling and smoking from the turbo.
The oil inlet from a RB pedastal sounds good.
The stock part comes from the front side of the drivers side any way. Not much more distance.
I recommend a 4an inlet line and 10 an return line.
4an might be too big if the restrictor pill inside the stock turbo is removed.
Originally Posted by Impreza2RX7
Damn, it'be be easier to part it a N/A out, buy a TII and start fresh..
Not if I have new paint, a mazda reman and a FD torsen in my car already
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diabolical1
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
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Jan 30, 2016 05:50 AM





I have a remapped ECU from Mazdee's that you might be interested in but its out of the 88.
