Is a turbo transmission longer or shorter? And can it fit in a GTU?
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Is a turbo transmission longer or shorter? And can it fit in a GTU?
bought a GTU with a bad tranny (Manuel). The guy gave me another tranny that he was gonna put in himself. now that i bolt that tranny in, the "fork" doesn't budge
suggestions that to what my problem is?
suggestions that to what my problem is?
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THE CLUTCH SLAVE CYLINDER IS NOT BOLTED, AND THE FORK HAS TO HAVE PLAY BUT WON'T EVEN MOVE. SO, I THINK I JUST NEED TO GET ANOTHER TRANNY
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#16
This sh*t burns oil!
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If you got a Tii transmission to put in your GTU did you also get everything else required to make it work? Once the transmission is in you wont be able to more the fork for the release bearing by hand like everyone else said. Do you have a Tii slave cylinder? You also may have to adjust the rod on the clutch pedal going to the clutch master cylinder. I had to do that, then again mine was originally atx the mtx swapped w/ a s3 trans.
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hmmm... Maybe I did something wrong ... but I put a t2 transmission in my 88 gtu ... without ..doing ... anything special. *shrug*
(update) : I used the whole t2 drive train btw.
(update) : I used the whole t2 drive train btw.
Last edited by TweakGames; 07-14-08 at 12:32 AM.
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If you got a Tii transmission to put in your GTU did you also get everything else required to make it work? Once the transmission is in you wont be able to more the fork for the release bearing by hand like everyone else said. Do you have a Tii slave cylinder? You also may have to adjust the rod on the clutch pedal going to the clutch master cylinder. I had to do that, then again mine was originally atx the mtx swapped w/ a s3 trans.
ALSO, I THINK ITS TOO SHORT.
#22
This sh*t burns oil!
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How did you put the "wrong transmission" in your car. The TII trans is the same length, only the craptastic 6-speed in the RX8 is shorter. Is the fork for the release bearing near the top of the bellhousing(fc push style) or the bottom(fd pull style)?
If it is a FC TII trans as long as you have everything else it takes to make it work there is no problem, it physically fits fine.
If it is a FC TII trans as long as you have everything else it takes to make it work there is no problem, it physically fits fine.
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How did you put the "wrong transmission" in your car. The TII trans is the same length, only the craptastic 6-speed in the RX8 is shorter. Is the fork for the release bearing near the top of the bellhousing(fc push style) or the bottom(fd pull style)?
If it is a FC TII trans as long as you have everything else it takes to make it work there is no problem, it physically fits fine.
If it is a FC TII trans as long as you have everything else it takes to make it work there is no problem, it physically fits fine.
THE GUYS I BOUGHT IT FROM TOLD ME THE GUY WHO HE BOUGHT IT FROM SAID IT WAS FROM A GXL
#25
Can you actually take a picture of the "Newer" transmission? I kind of have the feeling that since you are a new rotary owner, the previous owner might have suckered you by giving you a wrong replacement? I've seen plenty of ads on craigslist where the seller either has no idea what they are selling or they are just trying to make their stuff sound good for those who don't know. For example, there was an ad for a TurboII transmission but the photo proved it to be a regular n/a transmission. Then I've seen ads for the 2nd gen n/a transmission but really it was a 1st gen transmission.
It might actually be a long shot, but if the two transmissions that you have are physically different, and the "Newer" one is really shorter... not seems shorter or maybe shorter but FORSURE shorter than it could be that he gave you a 1st gen transmission, which doesn't mean it wouldn't work for the engine but the rest of the drivetrain just won't line up.
Also, the transmission fork will only move freely when it is separate from everything else. This means you can look into the bellhousing and hit your forehead onto the transmission 'spindle... I forgot what this is called but it goes into the E-shaft'. When you move the fork or throw out bearing back and forth, it should try and slide back into the original position. If it is kind of ehh and stuck, try coating the area with a bit of synthetic wheel bearing grease. But like Faberio said, once the transmission and engine are together, the fork should not be able to move... only with the help of the hydraulic system... clutch slave cylinder.
But if I were you, I'd take the engine and transmission back out and inspect the above stuff and yet check the inside of the E-shaft once the transmission is removed. I have a feeling that you might have also messed up your Pilot Bearing by "Forcing" the engine and transmission together by using the mounting bolts. After you inspected everything and are in the process of putting them back together, try to align the teeth on the transmission with the pattern of the clutch and pilot bearing and it should just slide in. Then if you have maybe 1/2" or less space between the two I believe it is then okay to use the bolts to bring them together. Oh yeah, don't forget to bleed your clutch system too if the pedal is spongy.
It might actually be a long shot, but if the two transmissions that you have are physically different, and the "Newer" one is really shorter... not seems shorter or maybe shorter but FORSURE shorter than it could be that he gave you a 1st gen transmission, which doesn't mean it wouldn't work for the engine but the rest of the drivetrain just won't line up.
Also, the transmission fork will only move freely when it is separate from everything else. This means you can look into the bellhousing and hit your forehead onto the transmission 'spindle... I forgot what this is called but it goes into the E-shaft'. When you move the fork or throw out bearing back and forth, it should try and slide back into the original position. If it is kind of ehh and stuck, try coating the area with a bit of synthetic wheel bearing grease. But like Faberio said, once the transmission and engine are together, the fork should not be able to move... only with the help of the hydraulic system... clutch slave cylinder.
But if I were you, I'd take the engine and transmission back out and inspect the above stuff and yet check the inside of the E-shaft once the transmission is removed. I have a feeling that you might have also messed up your Pilot Bearing by "Forcing" the engine and transmission together by using the mounting bolts. After you inspected everything and are in the process of putting them back together, try to align the teeth on the transmission with the pattern of the clutch and pilot bearing and it should just slide in. Then if you have maybe 1/2" or less space between the two I believe it is then okay to use the bolts to bring them together. Oh yeah, don't forget to bleed your clutch system too if the pedal is spongy.
Last edited by Druken; 07-17-08 at 12:42 PM.