turbo swap won't start...
#1
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turbo swap won't start...
ok, I swaped a tII drivetrain into an '88 vert. I know that i must have missed something. The engine turns over but won't start. I don't have any of the emissions on the car. Also can't find any vacuum leaks or open vacuums. Will the car start if i put the injectors plugs on the wrong injectors? (ex. primary injector plug on secondary injector or vise versa) I know that i can try to start the car with ATF in the leading plug holes, but heard that it's not good for the motor. I haven't tried to do this though. Also I AM getting spark and fuel, but does smell like it's flooding. Is there anything (plug) that i could have missed that will make the car not start? thankyou for any help. I really want to get my car started...
#3
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what kind of motor is it.....usdm jdm... miles on it??? try putting just regulat engine oil in the leading to get it started.. also do a comp check .. you never know if its a jdm...
#4
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No, I haven't done a compression check yet. The motor is from my old T2 that i wrecked. I'm not sure how many miles were on it since it was rebuilt.. But it was in good running order.
#7
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You have spark and fuel and won't start is what I read. You smell fuel, I think.
So disable the fuel pump all together by pulling its plug. Then spray starter fluid into the filter/afm for about one to two seconds and try starting the car and see if it does/does not start for a moment.
Make sure the battery is fully charge before doing the above. A rotary turning slowly does not really like to start right up.
Sitting for six months shouldn't cause a apex seal to stick at all.
You might try a touch of oil in the rotors if the above does not work out. This atf isn't required and motor oil never hurt a thing.
So it's....disable the fuel pump (don't be pulling fuses).......spray two seconds in the intake.....start the engine with a fully charged battery. IF it does start for a moment, then repeat these steps a couple of times and then reinstall the fuel pumps plug.
I assume the cas is located ok and the turbo inlet duct is connected at both ends.....and a lot of other assumptions.
So disable the fuel pump all together by pulling its plug. Then spray starter fluid into the filter/afm for about one to two seconds and try starting the car and see if it does/does not start for a moment.
Make sure the battery is fully charge before doing the above. A rotary turning slowly does not really like to start right up.
Sitting for six months shouldn't cause a apex seal to stick at all.
You might try a touch of oil in the rotors if the above does not work out. This atf isn't required and motor oil never hurt a thing.
So it's....disable the fuel pump (don't be pulling fuses).......spray two seconds in the intake.....start the engine with a fully charged battery. IF it does start for a moment, then repeat these steps a couple of times and then reinstall the fuel pumps plug.
I assume the cas is located ok and the turbo inlet duct is connected at both ends.....and a lot of other assumptions.
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#8
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Originally Posted by HAILERS
You have spark and fuel and won't start is what I read. You smell fuel, I think.
Originally Posted by HAILERS
I assume the cas is located ok and the turbo inlet duct is connected at both ends.....and a lot of other assumptions.
thanks I will try your method, this evening..
also open to any other suggestions.
#9
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ok, I unpluged the fuel pump and sprayed starting fluid in the afm, also put a little oil in the leading plug holes. I got what sounded like it wanted to start, but just backfired... then tried it a couple more times and nothing. Could my starter be the problem? anything else that I can try?
#10
Originally Posted by HAILERS
So it's....disable the fuel pump (don't be pulling fuses).......spray two seconds in the intake.....start the engine with a fully charged battery. IF it does start for a moment, then repeat these steps a couple of times and then reinstall the fuel pumps plug.
#11
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Originally Posted by Goofy
Did you only try once? And did you escalate to reinstalling the fuel pump?
#14
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Sounds like a heavily flooded engine. The light weight oil should help a lot used with the starter fluid. At least it sounded a bit like it wanted to start. The oil should help build compression and the starter fluid with the pump disabled should get it to go varoom for a moment or so.
That said, trying to start it probably is dragging the battery down and as the battery goes down the starter starts to drag along and the spark gets less intense and before you know it your throwing things at the car. humor, sorta.
I'm not all that much against pull starting although I don't do it myself.
Timing should be checked. Align the pulley marks....pull the cas out.....take the top off the cas.....align the marks on the bottom gear of the cas .......then stare inside the top of the cas and note how one of the top two *gears* is cutting right across one of the corners of one of the black coils.........insert the cas and when through turn the cas body til the *gear* is cutting across the corner of that black coil just like before you stabbed the cas.
That said, trying to start it probably is dragging the battery down and as the battery goes down the starter starts to drag along and the spark gets less intense and before you know it your throwing things at the car. humor, sorta.
I'm not all that much against pull starting although I don't do it myself.
Timing should be checked. Align the pulley marks....pull the cas out.....take the top off the cas.....align the marks on the bottom gear of the cas .......then stare inside the top of the cas and note how one of the top two *gears* is cutting right across one of the corners of one of the black coils.........insert the cas and when through turn the cas body til the *gear* is cutting across the corner of that black coil just like before you stabbed the cas.
#17
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Time to start trying to get this started again... (needed some time to cool off) I will the checking the timing as you stated Hailers. On the ECU ground.. Are there more than one? it's just the one to the block right? Also about the fuel lines I'm pretty sure they are right, but i'll check anything right now!
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