im about to buy an na fc. ive been reading what is rquired fr the swap. now it says i need a turbo rear end. can i just buy an aftermarket lsd of will i need the driveshft? and what else from a rear end?

 

i used to have an 88 na but had to sell it so im familiar with rotary.but ive never done this swap. i just wanna know what exactly ill need besides the motor trans ecu any info would be appreciated. thanks

 

wireing harness.

 

well i know that im just curious what i would need for after the trans will i need a driveshft/diff/anything else?

 

The n/a and TII use different rearends (7" vs 8" I believe, not totally positive. Not to mention different diff housing, axles, etc). To use an n/a rearend with a TII trans, you'll need to run a custom driveshaft. I believe Mazdatrix sells them, or you could have one made.

 

so theres a special driveshaft i can get and i wont have to change out the rear end?

 

Yeah, but unless you can find a used one that driveshaft costs almost as much as a TII rear end with an LSD (if you have a non LSD NA car).

A drivetrain swap isn't required for the swap though, you can run the NA trans until it breaks if you don't have the money now.

 

Here are a few drivetrain layouts you can run:


ONE:

t2 engine
t2 transmission
t2 driveshaft
t2 half shafts and diff

Two:

t2 engine
t2 transmission
t2 driveshaft (you will need to slot the holes to fit the n/a diff)
n/a half shafts and diff (as power and rear grip goes up, stuff WILL start breaking

three:

t2 engine
na transmission (has no problems handling power produced by the factory ht18 turbo, zenki or kouki)
na driveshaft
na half shafts and diff

Four:
t2 engine
na transmission
na driveshaft
t2 diff


I'll talk some about "four" since i have the setup sans engine.

I had to FULLY cut/slot my driveshaft to get it to fit on the t2 diff. Why? Because the bolt pattern is wider on the diff than on the driveshaft. At stock n/a power i shouldn't run into problems for a while but i'm anticipating it not working out for long. I do have an n/a diff i welded up along with another n/a driveshaft as a backup. IIRC you can change out the driveshaft flange on the diff with a t2 flange. You can also drill holes offset of the t2 holes. this is probably ALOT safer than slotting the driveshaft but keep reading. I did my best to use my noggin to REDUCE the risk of failure.

Large washers were used that fit inside the recessions of the driveshaft to allowing larger pressure points holding the driveshaft and diff together. I have done several burnouts and have drifted with said setup without any ill effects nor have i noticed it being "off balance".

I have also done the same to my "hybrid" half shafts. However, i do not have an extra pair of cv axles and SHOULD the slot mod fail, best case scenario will have me hunting down t2 cv axles in full sooner rather than later. I'm not running a super wide/grippy tire and my wheels weigh 16 pounds each so just by using some diy logic i figured it would work out. For the application it does but i DO NOT recommend it unless you're in a pinch and boost levels are kept STOCK with normal compound street tires between 195 and 215 widths. Even so, you can't guarantee everything will "hold up fine"

 

t2 engine
na transmission (has no problems handling power produced by the factory ht18 turbo, zenki or kouki)
na driveshaft
na half shafts and diff

did not know....thanks for the info

 

Ok i have done this swap many of times this is what you will need....you dont need to swap out the rear end mazdatrix sells a driveshaft for swaps its really simple and it saves a lot of time now for the swap i recomend getting a front clip because it has everything....thats the easiest way to do it.....also remember to find the year to match yours for example if you have a s4 n/a its easy to find a s4 turbo how ever if you use a s5 engine you need to use a s4 wireharness and ecu and you need to change the front cover from s5 to s4

 

thanks for the info im told s5 parts are hard to find. ar s4 any easier?

 

why buy NA if you want turbo??

if you have not bought it yet, just look further and buy a TII, that will be a lot cheaper!

 

well if i can find an fc TII i would buy it if its a good price and good condition

 

even if its in a bit less condition, i think it would still be cheaper/better to get a TII and have a rebuild done then to do a full turbo swap

 

well the only thing really is its harder to find. and i can get the motor trans ecu and wire harness easily. but im told ill need the driveshaft, map sensor maf sensor knock control unit and knock sensor. and a few of these items are hard to find like the knock control unit, map and maf send\sor. any one know where to get them?

 

Do yourself a favor and listen to furb....just speaking from experience....its cheaper, less time comsuming, and a lot faster just to buy what you want. You can buy a modded turbo car for the price of doing a swap. you will need a complete drive train from engine to rear end....there are a few exceptions, but most na cars you will want to swap the brakes also....unless you dont want to stop and want to do the one wheel peel....plus hood, ecu etc....save your cash and your mind

 

well some people like having the thought and experience from doing their own swap. but if you just want a quick 7. definitely just buy a turboed one.