global247

I am waiting on my 13bt from japan2la and mapping out what I want to do. How does this sound and what are your guys projections on whp.

Engine teardown

Aggressive streetport

Basic rebuild kit (seals, gaskits, rings)

Racingbeat REV-TII Turbo Exhaust System....Turbo Back claims 59 hp gain in Tii( I don't care about emmissions)

Removal of emmissions stuff

Good dyno tune

Any suggesstions welcome. I do have a budget and all of that fits into it. I don't mind if I fall within 1K of it for the right reasons/hp gains or tourque gains

Battle Cat

iTrader: (78)

if your gonna rebuild the motor.. why not upgrade to Rotary aviaition super seals, and solid corner seals?.??

might as well..

global247

I have no idea what u just said

need RX7

iTrader: (4)

What ECU are you going to be using?

global247

stock tii ecu

Jager

iTrader: (10)

http://fc3spro.com/TECH/FM2W/power.htm

Use that for reference for now. The more you learn the less you'll need that.

SoloII///M

iTrader: (13)

Don't attempt to do any of that stuff on a stock ECU.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

stock turbo is holding you back

PvillKnight7

iTrader: (16)

Keep the ports close to stock and use stock seals for daily driving. RA seals on used housing will cause hot start issues. Solid corner seals are a waste of money unless your building a drag only engine.

SoloII///M

iTrader: (13)

I can't stress enough - don't bother rebuilding the motor if you're going to do all those power mods on a stock ECU.

Once you blow it up you'll just need to rebuild it again.

g14novak

iTrader: (1)

This is one of the first times I've heard this (about solid corners). Care to explain why?

Are you huffing glue or something? I don't see any issues with the mods he's planning on running on the T2 ecu. Only way he'd be causing any problems is if he went to a upgraded turbo or H/FBP porting. From what I can see, hes streetporting and putting a exhaust on it. Only thing I can see that he needs is a FCD unless he plans on having the ECU chipped or he's going to be hitting fuel cut from overboosting (common problem when installing a aftermarket exhaust on the car).

Evil Aviator

That exhaust will require an aftermarket boost gauge and a fuel cut defenser or aftermarket ECU that eliminates the stock overboost fuel cut. You may also want an upgraded fuel pump, such as the common Walbro 255lph or Bosch pumps, as well as upgraded fuel injectors.

Be careful with that. Many people remove things that they shoudn't, causing the engine to run poorly.

It is impossible to have a good dyno tune with the stock ECU, and your aggressive street port will run like garbage with a stock ECU anyway. Combine that with your overboost fuel cut issues from the exhaust, and you can forget about using the stock ECU with your planned modifications. Therefore, I recommend looking into an Apexi AFC-Neo or Rtek ECU upgrade, or maybe even go to a standalone EMS if you have the money.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

Solid corner seals are used when the builder chooses to eliminate the corner seal plug. The corner seal plug is normally eliminated when the intake port is so big that the corner seal plug could fall out. The purpose of the corner seal plug is to reduce leakage of combustion gas:



Corner seal plugs were first added in series 3 engines. I don't see any point in eliminating them unless there is a danger of them falling out. It is true that the plugs do wear out somewhat quickly, but they are there for a reason and in most builds there's no point in getting rid of them given their low cost.

As for the RA seals causing hot start issues, I recently built a turbo engine with RA 2mm super seals and used housings. The engine fired right up the first time and in 1100 miles has never flooded. Not once.

Besides leaky injectors, hot start issues usually result from

1) the stock ECU's cranking ignition pulsewidth map. I am running a standalone, but the cranking fuel can be adjusted with an Rtek 2.1

2) poor compression. poor compression can be caused by a number of things such as improper clearancing and excessively worn housings. I have used housings, but used housings could be in any condition really. They can have varying levels of wear on the chrome surface, so it's hard to throw used housings into one lot. Any flake along the edges is going to hurt compression. I replaced my rear rotor housing with a good condition used one because of edge wear.

I don't think you can say RA seals and used housings cause flooding. A lot of people with RA seals may have other things going on that cause flooding, like worn housings.

SoloII///M

iTrader: (13)

I would suggest you do a search. Stock ECU + FCD + catless, high-flow exhaust is a very effective recipe for blown motors due to a combination of running lean (caused by the FCD) and poor spark management of the stock ECU.

But what do I know, it's not like I've seen a hundred cases of it over the years or anything.

There are all sorts of band-aid solutions to make the car kinda sorta run OK (bigger secondaries seem to be the most popular) but the real solution is engine management. Rtek, MS, Haltech, whatever.

I'll shut up on the topic now.

g14novak

iTrader: (1)

Clearly were at a impasse here. I've personally drove several friends cars that have the same setup (racingbeat exhaust, streetport, fcd) and they've all boosted fine. Theirs a difference in what you see in writing and what actually happens in real life. One in particular had the mods done about a year and a half ago, hasn't changed anything on the car. Still runs strong to this day as his DD. Boosts 12lbs. Doesn't smoke, doesn't det. Runs perfect. Maybe its the elevation/temp change between here and where you are. Who knows.

But what do I know, I'm just some dumb kid.

Ignorant people these days. If its not set up their way, its wrong.

Yes, a stand-alone would be the correct way to go. But seeing as he hasn't posted his budget, I posted what would be the easiest way to go. If he can afford it, definately step up to a Rtek. If he can go up even higher, I personally prefer the Microtech EMS. Most tuners will say the same.


And to arghx, If your worried about the corner seals dropping the plug, shouldn't you be a little more worried about the ENTIRE corner seal dropping in the intake? Or does the little rubber piece aide in this action(plug gets caught on intake port, rolls corner seal out of rotor).

thejallenator

iTrader: (14)

as far as emissions....
http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/2n...s_removal.html great site

PvillKnight7

iTrader: (16)

For a daily driver the ports should not be so wide that the rubber inserts are unsupported. In the picture the red is the plate and the solid red line is the outer edge of the port. The corner seal has plenty of support in this case but the plug doesn't. The plugs can not be used.

vrracing

iTrader: (1)

We did something like what the OP says he wants to do; rebuild JDM Tii, street port, freeflowing exhaust (Bonez cat, Corksport catback) but all emissions intact.

I bought the porting template from Pineapple Racing. When I talked to Rob he said I should plan on getting an SAFC or other fuel computer because the N370 would cause the engine to go lean; especially while under load like going up hills, just because of the porting.

So I also got the RTek 1.8 mod done to the N370 which calls for 720/720 injectors. I used 720/1000s and figured I'd be rich.

I also got a Zeitronix wideband. Even with the RTek modded N370 we were lean just like Rob said. And this is measured. It's not that "my friends car does this or that."

Note that the RTek 1.x mods assume an otherwise stock engine. They can't account for every possible modification.

Keep in mind that your engine is a big air pump. Everything you do from intake to porting to exhaust that increases how efficiently your engine pumps air means you'll be leaning out the mixture. Lean is bad. Lean goes boom.

So if you have an S4 you can get the RTek 2.x version that lets you manage your fuel mixture to accommodate your mods and very shortly you'll be able to do it for the S5s as well. Or you can get an SAFC or go whole hog and go standalone.

Either way if you do any intake, porting or exhaust mods you must buy a wideband or you'll become really proficient at pulling and rebuilding that engine.

One other tip on the rebuild, get the Pineapple waterseal o-rings. They are expensive but were much beefier than the OEM ones (and if you dont get the wideband you'll find you can't reuse the OEM ones but you can the Pineapple ones! )

Oh, and my final suggestion. $1000 budget buffer is optimistic. Double whatever you think it is going to cost you.

Mazdatrix has a video on porting. RotaryResurrection has a great writeup on doing teardowns and rebuilds. I had both for my build. Really helped.

Good luck with your project.

SoloII///M

iTrader: (13)

Does insulting the other party usually win you arguments?

I never said that his setup was wrong, just that it was a time bomb. Which it is. On some cars it works, but on all cars it is marginal.

Since it's quite an effort to pull a motor, rebuild it and reinstall it, I'm just suggesting that he go about it in a way that will improve his chances of not having to, uh, do it again.

Evil Aviator

I forgot to mention that the stock turbo wastegate is probably going to need to be ported, so I hope that is included in the engine teardown and rebuild.

global247

ok..... so littaraly all I have considered is what I had on my list. I am williling to go a thousand or so over the budget if it makes sense. Good info though. If there are things I am missing thank you for filling in the holes. With a standalone what kind of power can I expect from this setup... By the way, i am not doing the porting or tuning or install, I am paying for that all to be done by a rotary shop near me that knows what they are doing, i just need to figure out what all I need to buy and have done.

Evil Aviator

If the rotary shop knows what they are doing, then why do you need to ask us? That should be a red flag telling you not to use their services. A rotary shop that actually knows what they are doing will tell you exactly what you need based on your budget and performance goals.

global247

well...... i go up there about once a week with my ideas and he filters my ideas and fine tunes what I want to do. I am trying to get an idea of what I want, what it will cost, and what setups make what kind of power. I am getting a good idea by reading all of the replys on my posts and it is moving me along in the decision making process. The shop is doing the work but isn't really "in" to it, knows how to but doesn't like anything other than stock setups unless you go into pure racing....... so i am doing the research and he is going to do the work and make sure I don't screw anything up royaly

KompressorLOgic

iTrader: (6)

for fuel with the stock turbo, or even a bnr upgrade stage 1-4 , id probably go with the rtek 2.1 coupled with at least 4x 720cc injectors. then of course upgrade the fuel pump to like a walbro 255 or something.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

I'm not the guy to ask. I put brand new OEM corner seals in my motor recently, and the plugs were already installed. I think solid corner seals are pointless on most builds. It's regressive; it's moving backwards in the evolution of the rotary engine, despite the plug's seemingly limited lifespan. Mazda has improved the corner seal plug in the Rx-8 Renesis engine.