tinvestor

Anyone know where to buy flanges for the oil lines to the turbo? I would prefer that they had AN fittings on them so I can hook up nice lines.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

The drain flange is a standard T4 style flange. You an get them from ATP Turbo (.com). HOWEVER an S4 turbo does not have enough clearance in the exhaust flange area to fit both the drain flange and the fittings required, so you are stuck with the stock drain pipe. You can always braze an AN fitting onto it, though.

The oil feed flange is the same size as a T3 DRAIN flange. Russel sells a T3 drain flange with a -10 AN flare that bolts directly to our turbo (I've done it). Seals with an o-ring. You then need a flare reducer to bring that -10 fitting down to a sane (-6 or -4) size.

Digi7ech

iTrader: (1)

APT does sell the adapters. A local hotrod shop will have the pretty earls/XRP AN fittings.

On my car I used a local turbo dealers cnc machine flanges(t3 i think).

It was threaded for something like 4 or 6AN.
I then bought a prefabbed piece of 4an line and some adapter to fit the stock inlet hardpipe.

The prefabbed line was a bit long and does rub against the bottom of the ACV mount on the LIM but it works fine.

Just found some pics from a previous thread.

^ 10an line with 2 turbo adapter flanges(mounts to the front cover perfectly!)


Stock and new oil feedline.

^fuzzy but those are the parts numbers from XRP
BTW the reducer was needed for me because the internal oil restrictor was removed during rebuilding. Without it I would blow huge smoke cloud out my exhaust from excess oil.


Now a 45 degree adapter for the return line might be better if you can fit it. It will help give you a better slope towards the front cover. Mine does not pool or smoke though so the 90 may work for you as well.

pinkfloyd

Wow, it’s great that I found this thread. I was making something up for my oil drain and I realized it performs shitty as the tube actually hangs lower then the drain hole in the oil pan and well it just looks really cheap.

Anyway from looking around it seems the easiest and somewhat affordable way to fix my oil drain is something like the post above. My only question is can I buy those exact parts (part #'s) that you listed and will it work with what I have.

I have a cheap *** OBX SS exhaust manifold stock s4 turbo. I have all emissions removed so rubbing against the ACV mount is not a problem.

I am completely new to SS braided lines (NA lines?) I am looking to build something that’s exactly likes Digi7ech first pic but longer since I have a SS header. Digi7ech if you could tell me exactly what I will need, like part #'s that would be great to build what you built. Also from what I have seen/read it is easy to cut and change the length of NA lines, is this true?

From what it looks like in the pic I need a t4 drain flange with NA fitting to a 90 degree bend thingy to SS line to some size flange to fit to front housing like Digi7ech did.

I will go search around the forum some more but this thread was right at the top of my search and looks almost exactly like what I want.

Thanks a lot guys, peace.

The Floyd

Digi7ech

iTrader: (1)

Here's a link to ATP turbo which seels a similar product to the adapter piece. You need 2.
One for the turbo and one for the front cover.
http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/me...egory_Code=FLA

Then it's just getting an adapter piece. From what ever threading they tapped the piece to 10AN.

actually they state this on the page "Flange is tapped in the center with 1/2" NPT for use with any of our 1/2" NPT to -10 AN fittings."


On Jegs there is part number 555-110150
90 Degree Flare Fitting- Male Thread - Black
1/2'' NPT to -10 AN 90° Flare
I do not use this type so there could be a clearance problem

Then

555-110110
Straight Flare Fitting- Male Thread - Black
1/2'' NPT to -10 AN Flare

Alternatively I used this plus another straight 1/2 not to 10AN adapter

555-100023
90 Degree Max Flow Swivel Hose End - Red/Blue
-10 AN 90° Hose End
This may give some extra length to clear the turbo instead of turning directly out of the adapter.

Then

555-100003
Straight Max Flow Swivel Hose End - Red/Blue
-10 AN Hose End

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
An hose is pretty easy to cut. The SS makes a bit of a pain but one trick is to wrap the section your cutting with Tape. This will help prevent fraying.

pinkfloyd

sweet. Thanks so much for the help and walking me through that.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

The ATP flange will definitely not fit on an S4 turbo when you use an adapter. With a direct 1/2" NPT fitting there MIGHT be a chance but there is very little space in that area. I couldn't get mine to fit. Ended up cutting the end of a stock drain and then brazing a 1/2" NPT fitting onto it.

pinkfloyd

thanks aron, but i was not going to risk it anyway. Well off to order these parts


ok i am an idiot but i cant find a website that sells these ******* parts

NM, found it on jegs.

pinkfloyd

I cant find a place that sells basic SS line that will fit this.

Digi7ech

iTrader: (1)

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...0019&langId=-1

10 an Jegs brand 3 feet for $15

pinkfloyd

woot! thanks again


ok jegs master how come i cant find the Oil Drain Flange (T3/T4) or will i just have to order that from atp?

would be nice to order it all from the same place.

Digi7ech

iTrader: (1)

That's a more specialized part so it's not main stream like AN fittings.

If you can find it on a hotrod then Jegs,summit,etc.. will have it.

ATP has been the only online store I've seen the adapter for sale. My local Turbo rebuilder had them as well so a local Turbo shop may carry them.

pinkfloyd

the two fittings I got off atp that attach to the turbo and the block do not screw into the an fittings. They thread in very easy for about a half inch then just stops. Because it threads in so easy part of the way and the threads look identical but its as if it is hitting something even though it is not. I figure i would ask you guys before contacting atp.

Bad grammar ..uhg..

My friend said because its aluminum you need to lube it up but it threads so easy part of the way then just stops. Could it be the threads are off and it binds after being threaded in for a while.

takahashiRyosukeFC3S

i believe like with any pipe thread they are tapered. don't quote me on this but that would be logical. any NPT and most likely AN fittings are tapered they do tighten up the further onto the thread you go.

hope that helps, but i could be WRONG,
Ryosuke

88rxn/a

iTrader: (6)

555-100023
90 Degree Max Flow Swivel Hose End - Red/Blue
-10 AN 90° Hose End
This may give some extra length to clear the turbo instead of turning directly out of the adapter.


did this one fit????
has anyone found somthin that will fit for the stock s4 turbo???
my oil drain is hella rigged and i want it fixedright...
i used the stock drain and cut then re-welded the end that normally hooks to the motor, i turned it so it faces downward and then i have a setup similar to digi after that...

i just want somthin to clear

pinkfloyd

its the none taperd end that is going into the turbo fitting thats not fitting.

88rxn/a

iTrader: (6)

if you find somthin that fits will you post a pic of it and part #...
i have a hell of a time picturing these setups and need simplified answers...
<<<noob!!!...lol

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

All NPT threads (most pipe) are tapered. The taper is what seals the joint. Depending on machining differences between the two parts somtimes it will thread in all the say, sometimes only a few threads.

AN fitting threads are straight thread. Flared AN fittings seal on the flare when tightened by forming a contact ring on the machine surfaces. Cutoff AN fittings or ORB AN fittings rely on an o-ring for sealing.

Can you more accurately describe what is not fitting or take a picture?

88rxn/a

iTrader: (6)

i think he is talking about connecting the T3 oil flange to the AN fitting...i had a hard time fitting it to..it seemed to go only so far and stop...i just tightened it up good and had no leaks yet...it must be because of the flared fitting of the AN

88rxn/a

iTrader: (6)

will this squeeze in their??
its a 10AN fitting

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

AN fittings with flares don't seat all the way to the bottom of the threads usually. You tighten them hand tight, then snug them up 1/4 to half a turn. If it leaks, tighten it a little more. Overtightening them (which is commonly done) causes a deep groove to form around the flare which damages the fitting.

That 1/2" NPT to -10AN will NOT fit on the AN T3 drain flange, but should fit the ATP (or other) 1/2" NPT T4 drain flange fine. NPT threads often only go in halfway or so.

pinkfloyd

Ok, this is what I have


555-110110
Straight Flare Fitting- Male Thread - Black
1/2'' NPT to -10 AN Flare

That that part is trying to fit into this part

http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/me...egory_Code=BCS

("Billet aluminum oil drain/return flange for T3, T3/T4, or T04 turbochargers. Designed to be used with 8mm thread x 1.25 pitch bolts to bolt to turbo. Flange is tapped in the center with 1/2" NPT for use with any of our 1/2" NPT to -10 AN fittings.)

Also here are some pics to better understand what I am talking about. According to atp it should fit but they also say it is flared which you can see in the pics it is not. I just put it up to my mouth and it does make an air tight fit but I still don’t trust it when it comes to oiling my motor. But then again if you look at the pics on the first page his fittings also don’t go in much farther then mine so maybe it is ok and I am just being ****.














Aaron i think this is exactly what you just decribed as only going in part of the way, if its ment to be like that fine. I am pretty sure i will just put it on the car and see if it leeks or not.

Digi7ech

iTrader: (1)

I'm pretty sure you can put teflon tape on those styles of thread.

I did on mine.
Just don't use it on the compression thread end.

pinkfloyd

cool. I thought teflon was a bad idea because it could get stuck in the oil pump or something.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

That looks fine, but you need some kind of sealant. NPT threads will often seal without sealant but you should use something to prevent leaks. My favourite is Teflon tape since it's far less messy then pipe dope/Teflon sealant. Does take some skill to use because you need to be a good judge on wrapping tension and the number of layers. I wrap so that the tape clings to the surface and you can just see a slight discoloration on the high part of the threads through the tape. Two layers is generally enough on most fittings but if you have very thin tape then you might need more. You are supposed to tighten a NPT fitting hand tight and then another 1.5 turns if using sealant or 2 turns if not. Often this is not possible as they tighten up very quickly on the taper.