turbo oil passage flanges... Buy them where?
after installing the new turbo i trie using the setup i had for the oil drain...BUT because of the way it sat my car smoked like craxy and oil FILLED my exhaust...SO, i want to order or make somthin to fit....should i just braze a 1/2 flare or somthin so it will be more sufficent?
here is what im dealing with now..
should i bother with the T/3 or T/4 flange or whatever it is or cut the stock flange and braze?
here is what im dealing with now..
should i bother with the T/3 or T/4 flange or whatever it is or cut the stock flange and braze?
Well,
Your turbo has got to hbe a hybrid and clocked differently from the pic.
If the system worked before then it shoudl now if you only Clock the Compressor cover instead fo the whole cartridge.
Just unbolt the compressor cover and slide it to fit right.
Also, If it's a brand new rebuild then you may not have a restrictore anymore inside the cartridge. Some builders remove the internal restrictor.
This made my car smoke like crazy. Just put a restrictor on the feed line and your set.
Your turbo has got to hbe a hybrid and clocked differently from the pic.
If the system worked before then it shoudl now if you only Clock the Compressor cover instead fo the whole cartridge.
Just unbolt the compressor cover and slide it to fit right.
Also, If it's a brand new rebuild then you may not have a restrictore anymore inside the cartridge. Some builders remove the internal restrictor.
This made my car smoke like crazy. Just put a restrictor on the feed line and your set.
Last edited by Digi7ech; Jun 22, 2006 at 04:14 PM.
lol, actually i have a brake line with fittings for the feed line...im mocking up pic. right now to show all the oil.. i went outside and blown through the feed line (tasted great!!) and it seemed restrictive...and yes it isnt the stock cold side...and i have it turned the way it needs to be because of fitment issues...
Originally Posted by Digi7ech
Well,
Your turbo has got to hbe a hybrid and clocked differently from the pic.
If the system worked before then it shoudl now if you only Clock the Compressor cover instead fo the whole cartridge.
Just unbolt the compressor cover and slide it to fit right.
Also, If it's a brand new rebuild then you may not have a restrictore anymore inside the cartridge. Some builders remove the internal restrictor.
This made my car smoke like crazy. Just put a restrictor on the feed line and your set.
Your turbo has got to hbe a hybrid and clocked differently from the pic.
If the system worked before then it shoudl now if you only Clock the Compressor cover instead fo the whole cartridge.
Just unbolt the compressor cover and slide it to fit right.
Also, If it's a brand new rebuild then you may not have a restrictore anymore inside the cartridge. Some builders remove the internal restrictor.
This made my car smoke like crazy. Just put a restrictor on the feed line and your set.
Yeah, ya know, I have a hybrid and thought about clocking it differently. And, mine did not have a restrictor, and I was gushing oil.(well, almost). ATP Turbo has the right restrictor pills. Now, no more oil blowby.
here is the outcome i plan on doing....braze a 1/2 pipe or somthin where its mocked up...
and pictures of all the oil i had pouring out of it... i filled my driveway right up!!
and pictures of all the oil i had pouring out of it... i filled my driveway right up!!
http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/me...egory_Code=OIL
is this the pill your talking about?
is this the pill your talking about?
Originally Posted by 88rxn/a
http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/me...egory_Code=OIL
is this the pill your talking about?
is this the pill your talking about?
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 29,798
Likes: 128
From: London, Ontario, Canada
That thing was puking oil! The only one I have see that was worse was a 300ZX that literally had 1/2" of play side to side on the turbine and exhaust wheels...
Anyway, your plan to cut and braze seems fine. If you have never brazed before, both fittings need to be tight as brazing will not easily fill large gaps. Both must be ABSOLUTELY SPOTLESSLY CLEAN. For brazing copper to steel, use a pre-fluxed bronze based rod for this purpose. Heat both equally until cherry red and then apply the rod to the joint. Sometimes you need to heat the rod a little too. The flux will melt and make a lot of smoke and the brazing material should flow into the joint. Don't breath the fumes unless you want to stop living (or at least be very sick for the next few days). When it has cooled, remove any excess flux.
Anyway, your plan to cut and braze seems fine. If you have never brazed before, both fittings need to be tight as brazing will not easily fill large gaps. Both must be ABSOLUTELY SPOTLESSLY CLEAN. For brazing copper to steel, use a pre-fluxed bronze based rod for this purpose. Heat both equally until cherry red and then apply the rod to the joint. Sometimes you need to heat the rod a little too. The flux will melt and make a lot of smoke and the brazing material should flow into the joint. Don't breath the fumes unless you want to stop living (or at least be very sick for the next few days). When it has cooled, remove any excess flux.
Originally Posted by Aaron Cake
That thing was puking oil! The only one I have see that was worse was a 300ZX that literally had 1/2" of play side to side on the turbine and exhaust wheels...
Anyway, your plan to cut and braze seems fine. If you have never brazed before, both fittings need to be tight as brazing will not easily fill large gaps. Both must be ABSOLUTELY SPOTLESSLY CLEAN. For brazing copper to steel, use a pre-fluxed bronze based rod for this purpose. Heat both equally until cherry red and then apply the rod to the joint. Sometimes you need to heat the rod a little too. The flux will melt and make a lot of smoke and the brazing material should flow into the joint. Don't breath the fumes unless you want to stop living (or at least be very sick for the next few days). When it has cooled, remove any excess flux.
Anyway, your plan to cut and braze seems fine. If you have never brazed before, both fittings need to be tight as brazing will not easily fill large gaps. Both must be ABSOLUTELY SPOTLESSLY CLEAN. For brazing copper to steel, use a pre-fluxed bronze based rod for this purpose. Heat both equally until cherry red and then apply the rod to the joint. Sometimes you need to heat the rod a little too. The flux will melt and make a lot of smoke and the brazing material should flow into the joint. Don't breath the fumes unless you want to stop living (or at least be very sick for the next few days). When it has cooled, remove any excess flux.
my neighbors werent to happy with all the smoke!!!!the shaft play is in very good shape...this one spins 5X's as long as the other and has 1/2 the shaft play....i REALLY need a resistor!! and as far as brazing...my buddy is very good at welding and brazing so he does all the stuff i cant!
gonna have it welded up tommorow..ill post pictures when im done...
got the pill also and will install it too!!! i will finally have the 7 back on the road!!! hopefully by sunday!
got the pill also and will install it too!!! i will finally have the 7 back on the road!!! hopefully by sunday!
here is the outcome..i lwelded this myself and im not the bes but it doesnt leak so it will work
it is a 1/2 inch piece of pipe from the local hardware store.. cost me $2.50 for it..
Thread Starter
Rotary Enthusiast
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 919
Likes: 0
From: bartlett IL
grind down the weld and hit the entire piece with some paint it will protect the weld and dress the bay a little (even if you choose black) should use high temp paint though.
its a 10 AN NPT to 1/2 inch AN fitting i got from JEGS...
and as far as paiting im doing that today....
the red AN fitting was from JEGS too but i cant remember which one it is..
and as far as paiting im doing that today....
the red AN fitting was from JEGS too but i cant remember which one it is..
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
trickster
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
25
Jul 1, 2023 04:40 PM
