so im trying to get my 88turbo II to start and im just having no luck, i got fuel and spark, have de flodded motor several times, so i go to run a comp test and im getting it to peak around 30psi?! i add some atf to the holes and it maybe goes up 5psi? im pretty sure this means new motor time...but any thing else simple it could be? also if i get the car towed pop the clutch it runs okay then clears up then seems fine in the upper rpm band and once it gets down below about 2500 then it sill die and not restart with the starter and the only time i can get it to run is getting it towed? any insight?

 

you need a rebuild

 

 

i know this has been covered many times, but will i know if i can just get away with a rebuild or is there a way to tell if any internal damage has happened without tearing the motor apart, or would it be worth it to just find another motor

 

before you go off and REBUILD IT..
Please For the Love of GOD,find a thread that tells you HOW TO Compression test the engine.
.The Rebuild word gets thrown around an awful lot around here..get a TRUE second opinion.

 

That's right. I had a mechanic buddy along recently to do a comp check on my S4 vert, asked him if he had taken the check valve out of his tester, well we got 50psi. Turns out he did not take the valve out. So I'm going to buy a tester of my own and remove the check valve from the unit. I know my comp is OK as it chuffs strongly and regularly with the plugs out and it starts up hot or cold very nicely. But I might sell it so I should know what the compression is.
Mike

 

excellent advise, well the process i did was take take out the schrader valve on my compression tester so i got a pumping reading, then i hooked up my tester to the leading hole, cranked while WOT and its a even 0-30-0 sweeping motion, did the same on the 2nd rotor and the same sweeping 0-30-0, so i tried adding some ATF and it seemed like that help for a split second than back to normal, and what i mean by "help" is that it went up to about 35psi.

i tried the exact same procedure to the trailing holes and readings were the same

i put the schrader valve back in so i could get a max reading and i got 28-30psi, for how low compression this is im so surprised the motor could actually run? so what do you guys think gone apex seals? stuck seals?

 

I thought you put the compression tester end in the Trailing plugholes, (top). Would that make a difference? Would like to know
Mike

 

i thought that too but i was following the diy on rotary resurection
http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/2n...ion_check.html

 

Click on the link, 4th post down is a great guide on compression testing

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/compression-numbers-841732/

 

If you do have to rebuild after the second compression test....(hopefully not) the only way to check if you have to replace anything is to take off the lower manifold and feel inside the ports to feel for chips or scraps in the housings or rotors. other than that, there is no other way unless you take everything apart.

 

okay well i did re do the test and nothing improved at all, so i pulled the intake manifold and whole turbo and exhaust manifold, and looked in the exhaust ports with a mirror and all the apex seals are intact on all 3 sides of the rotor(front and rear), i really dont know what im looking for but all the edges seemed pretty smooth and didnt see any big gouges that stood out