Pointman,

Here is a pic of the back of the throttle body with the connections I am talking about. I hope that someone can confirm my thoughts on this.

I think the top connection was to the lower nipple on the subzero valve. The second one down is for the nipple located between the primary injectors on the block, the third is the connection for the oil meter main tube to the splitter which end up on each bolt nipple.

If you followed my pictures above number 8 is what I am talking about.

Also to answer your question, it is my thought that number 7 goes to your mysterious number one tube with the cap on it.

 

I tested my fuel system with the jumper for the fuel pump and found no leaks. Can someone tell me if 2 minutes is long enough to build up pressure? I do not have a pressure gauge to validate the full pressure.

 

okay that last post was a new thread, i will try it separate

Now for you engine guru's, help me out with this final vacuum line thing, that no one has yet answered. I am about to finish this off, and I have put the hoses in place. Can anyone verify that my final hoses are in the correct place and labeled correctly?

Check out this final photo....

 

Ya know somethig? I think if you look at that picture or view from the flywheel end, those hose are, welllllll not quite right.

You have what? Six hose all together. From the left is the EGR, then the switching vacuum line for the ACV, then two air pressure lines for the Relief part of the ACV and last a line for the FPR. Just aft of those five lines is a line that is angled outboard to the right. That is for the twin scroll acutator.

I believe you've got that angled line and another messed up. Just my humble opinion. I could be wrong. ha

 

Hailers is probably right he helped me with this same problem before.

search my name edomund and vacuum lines it should be there with good pics.

thanks again Hailers
ed

 

hailers, i ignored that particular picture, as I agree, the lines are out of sync.

I agree with your assessment of the line positions, and that is the way I have connected them up. I am going to take some more pictures to document the proper line positions from the "rats nest"

The FPR is the last line like you said. The line angled backward to the firewall and somewhat down, is the switching actuator. The rest (EGR, ACV and two for the ACV relief) are one to one order to the upper steel lines.

The only lines still in question on my quest to solve this vacuum line saga, are the ones for the subzero valve, that everyone agrees should be removed.... I would like to know what the original configuration was before i remove it...

Thanks...

I am putting this together tomorrow, after I replace my ground strap, the only part that i have not finished off for this long awaited repair...

 

You "could" be wrong. "ha" is right! I numbered the steel lines with a Sharpie before I took the old rubber off, and I'm still confident that you're right, and that I have the lines wrong.

So, help get me straight. Looking at the flywheel pic, there is a cluster of 6 lines. Four of them disappear under the UIM, one goes to the FPR, and one goes to the actuator. I think the "outboard" line you referred to is the one fartherest to the right, of the group of 4 going under the UIM. Do I need to switch that line with the one I presently have on my switching actuator?

I won't ask you what that will do for my performance--I'll figure that out for myself. Thanks!

 

I am new to this site, but no one should ever have to go through this ever again, so when i get all my digital pictures in place and annotated, I am going to donate them for everyone to use as a reference. I plan to tie all the FSM diagrams, with the "rats nest" pictures, and locations on the engine, so that everyone may enjoy the weath of info... buttsjim, you still have some very good pictures that I would like to use also, if that is okay...

 

Vacuum lines are not that hard to figure out IF you just take a deep breath and use REASON.

Example: The RELIEF solenoid and it's vacuum lines. You know that on a turbo the solenoid gets airpump air from the middle tube on the acv and that the air pressure goes from the acv to the Relief solenoid then back from the Relief solenoid to the Bottom of the acv. So? You can just blow into the lines to figure out whether or not you have the right lines in the right place.

Same with the Switching solenoid. You know that on the acv there is the switching signal pipe that sticks straight up. The vacuum comes from the Switching solenoid so you just blow into the line at the switching solenoid and make sure it exits at the hose that is connected to the pipe that sticks straight up on the top of the acv.

Works something like that. That's the way I figured out how things worked plus reading the FSM Fuel section and staring at the simplified diagrams.

Deep breath and some patience.

 

^ Dang. I hate having to think.

 

I hate the rats nest. If you don't care about emissions then you can use this pic I made a few years ago.


It's missing the twin scroll but you can easily connect just that.


Since this I have removed the PCV crap and the FPR solenoid.


For emissions I just slap on a cat,airpump and an ACV i've manipulated to pump 24/7 to the cat.

Also if you end up using the rats nest a simple trick to figure out the routing is to connect a vac line to one end of the hose and blow in it. Then feel the other ends to figure out which is which.

 

Thanks Digi7ech, I have the unfortunite luck of living in NJ and still have to pass their rigid emissions testing here. I won't take the chance of having to reinstall all the crap that could be taken off this car for that reason... so I just live with the mess...

Hey Hailers.... I used the compressed air before I put the rats nest back into the car, silly huh? at least i got the dust out...

 

On a Turbo car there is something that you need to be aware of concerning the ACV and the Relief portion of that valve.

Airpump air exits a nipple about in the middle of the valve and makes it's way over to the RELIEF solenoid on the other side of the engine. It then passes thru the Relief valve and comes back to the acv at the very bottom of the ACV.

Make sure YOUR DO NOT mix up those two lines, even if they do go to the same RELIEF valve. If you mix them up, what will happen is you will trap air in the bottom of the ACV's Relief diaphram keeping it cracked open when it should be shut. I found out that I had done this on my car today. That is not good for emissions. I've passed with it like this before but it isn't right.

One way to check it out with every thing connected up and the engine hot and at idle, is to pull the bottom line off the ACV and blow in the vacuum line was attached to it. YOu should be able to blow air thru that line. Also suck on that line and make sure it won't hold a vacuum. It should not. If you find this is not the case, it is easy to fix. Just swap the middle vac line with the one at the bottom of the acv and do the test again. It should pass meaning all is now well.

Blowing the lines out is good practice. Unfortunatley the car I bought had, had a fire and I got to ream the lines out due to the melted rubbber/plastic inside the ends of the lines. humor.

 

Hey if possible can I get that vacuum video aswell is it for a 1987 turbo 2 rebuilt my engine and secondary fuel rail vacuum and double throttle vacuum I need locations please

 

Hey can I please have those pictures aswell I'll buy u lunch Jackal0512@gmail.com is it for a 1987 turbo 2s4