nunchuckgun

I just bought a Turbo II, I was wondering if anyone can give me an estimation on how much horsepower. So far this is what's done to it:

-Hks intake
-Blitz blowoff valve
-1988 Mazda Rx7 turbo II ecu
-Ignition coils Two trailing and two leading
-Greddy turbo timer
-brand new dual Racing Beat exhaust
-brand new Catco high flow cat
- Racing beat downpipe
-brand new T4 turbo
-brand new dual blowoff valves
-brand new turbo xs manual boost controller
-brand new tre performance 255 lph fuel pump
-brand new 4 inches thick 12inch high 27 inches long 3 inch inlet and outlet front mount intercooler
-New ngk wires
-4 rebuilt 550c injectors by RC engineering
- new fuel pressure regulator

Going to get it dynoed sooner or later, but I want to know what I might expect.

walken

iTrader: (6)

maybe 300 before you pop your engine. you need a way to control fuel and spark with a bigger turbo and 4 550ccs injectors wont cut it.

nunchuckgun

pop? unfamiliar with that one, and ima get it tuned so that the fuel air ratio is set or whatever, im having someone do it, and what do you mean 4 wont cut it?

Alex Rodriguez

iTrader: (137)

he means 4 - 550 ccs injectors is not enough fuel

for a proper set up like you have you need atlest 720s for secondaries and some sort of engine management system

personally you are pushing that motor too muci you ha a t4 turbo with 550 injectors

POP

SpeedOfLife

iTrader: (16)

4 550cc injectors will not keep up with the fuel demands, even by bumping the fuel pressure you probably would blow (or 'pop') the motor at some point due to a lack of fuel (running lean).

Alex Rodriguez

iTrader: (137)

THESE ARE THE ONLY MODS you should have giving you power as for now

-Hks intake
--brand new dual Racing Beat exhaust
-brand new Catco high flow cat
- Racing beat downpipe


-brand new tre performance 255 lph fuel pump
-brand new 4 inches thick 12inch high 27 inches long 3 inch inlet and outlet front mount intercooler

shadoe

720's are needed big time on secondaries and you def need to tune

nunchuckgun

well i actually bought it like this, the guy was parting it out and i bought the whole thing so hes going to reassemble the motor sometime this week so before i run it ill get those thrown in because i still have to get the intercooler piping & downpipe taken care of, he hasnt run it since he did the work so he said so im hoping the motor hasnt been damaged because of it running like that before he decided to part it... so 750cc? and the car has 4 total fuel injectors? am i going to need to get a whole set of 4 fuel injectors or just 2?

nunchuckgun

plus i appreciate you guys help, if i hadnt of asked this would have ended terribly :\

SpeedOfLife

iTrader: (16)

Yeah, the car has 4 injectors unless someone added some (not a real common street mod, you probably just have 4). It's up to you whether you get 4 injectors, but the best way to go if you want to make 300+hp is to get at least 4x720cc injectors, maybe two ~720's for the primaries and two ~1000's for the secondaries. It also depends on how you want to manage fuel, like if you use an Rtek ECU that assumes there will be 4x720cc then you will want 4x720cc unless you have a way to tune.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

You need to find out the specs on this "T4" turbo. It could be anything... it could be a 300hp capable turbo or a 450+ hp capable turbo. You might have an ebay turbo and ebay manifold which will **** on you.

nunchuckgun

yeah i been tryna figure out what kind of turbo it was, ive got a picture of it it but it doesnt really reveal much

Alex Rodriguez

iTrader: (137)

looks like a ebay turbo, what are the numbers on the hotside it looks kinda small,

prof

Looks a little like a hybrid turbo, what hot side (exhaust end) is on the Turbo ?

Turbo could be good for 350+ bhp if it's a hybrid, but not on your stock injectors and ECU. I made 317BHP flywheel on a T04B hybrid with stock injectors, slightly increased fuel pressure and a chipped ECU at 0.75 BAR of boost - but the AFR's were starting to creep up at the end of the graph - time for bigger secondaries (I have some 800cc units to go on along with a larger intercooler and Greddy eManage Ultimate).

nunchuckgun

well i took a closer look at the pic (since i dont have the car at my house yet) and on the blue thing it says its a t4 v band and the part no. is ST1 and then theres 5 6 27 etched in the top and j84 etched on the side, i looked up j84 t4 v band turbo on google and a rx7club thread came up how ironic, to me the turbos look alike so i sent the guy a pm along with the pic to find out the specs and etc heres the thread

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=678533

everyone keeps saying to get an esm also, anyone have preferences?

t24todd

iTrader: (7)

yea got to get all the listed mods above to run saftly by any means..

nunchuckgun

k so i decided to pm the guy first instead of read his thread and found this little bit of info, if anyone can go off this let me know

Compressor A/R is .70, exhaust is .84, non-divided, v-band.
OK, the back of the turbo has the following:

5327-5794
5617
K27.015

The tag says:

Turbocharger
Type: T4 V Band
Part no: ST1
Serial number: T511090390184

J84 is cast into the front housing

The inlet is about 4" across and tapers to what looks like about 2 1/2", and the outlet is about 2 1/2" as well.

Yup, firsthand experience, I have a messed up one here in my garage. They're cheap China T70 knockoff turbos. (Where do you think ssautochrome gets theirs?) I disassembled mine after the wheel ate the compressor away and the wheel wasnt balanced, the compressor inducer fins weren't sharpened and the shaft is very thin compared to any quality T70 turbo. The casting of the CHRA looks awfully cheap as well. I had a friend who rebuilds turbos for a living look at it and he just laughed. Just wanted to give a word to the wise, I don't want anyone to go through what I went through with that turbo.

Cesar

PS Here's a pic so you don't think Im BSing, I took this when I got my new turbo to show they are the same dimensions as far as compressor and turbine housings. You can also see the shaft size differences and the dull compressor wheel blades.




man...this doesnt look good for me...

nunchuckgun

ive decided to just take the turbo off as soon as i get the car and get a new one anyone have any suggestions as to what brand/kind to get? im trying to spend at the most 600$ sounds kinda cheap i know, but im a broke dude haha

Alex Rodriguez

iTrader: (137)

well first you need a standalone, you can run that turbo but remember its only temporary

i would get the standalone because its the most expensive part in the engine build

then worry about turbos and stuff, now if that turbo you have is in bad condition ..ie..shaft play, in /out side-side, cracks,bent fins

then find something used even the stock turbo will be fine

arghx

iTrader: (3)

If you want a hybrid, go with the BNR or even the Knightsports hybrid if you find one. I would recommend you pick up an Rtek 2.1 ECU (just send in your stock one) and probably 1000 cc secondary injectors.

Rob XX 7

iTrader: (8)

245 to the wheels- remember your injectors and ecu limit you

nunchuckgun

i see, i fond an apex'i Power FC ecu and a haltech ecu, which one would you recommend?... the turbo is brand new, he hasnt run the car since he dumped all the new parts into it, so itll last me for a little while and i prolly wont run the boost really high most likely at like 7 psi?

and holy **** that rtek one is only 400$? i think im reading that wrong if not thats nice, those apex and haltech ones are like 1200, are they the same or better?

arghx

iTrader: (3)

There are tradeoffs between the two systems. The cost difference between the two totally depends on what you end up buying (which Haltech model for example, whether it's new or used).

The Power FC will require an adapter harness from Banzai Racing to work. If you want to do any serious tuning on your own, you will have to purchase the Datalogit box in order to get a laptop interface. Besides the adapter harness, the Power FC uses your factory engine harness. When I installed mine, I bought a used engine harness from a parts car that was in better shape than my original one, plus I verified that all my engine sensors were in good shape.

The Haltech is a lot harder to install as you will have to replace your stock engine harness. You need to be experienced with automotive wiring or pay someone else to put it in, as there is a much bigger chance of you screwing something up compared to the Power FC.

As far as features go, both give you full control over timing and fuel and people have made a lot of power reliably on both systems. The Haltech has more overall features such as programmable rpm based outputs.

There are many tradeoffs between the two systems and which one you should choose depends on a lot of factors such as your budget, what you plan to do with the ECU, your wiring ability, the condition of your factory harness and sensors, etc.

nunchuckgun

well my main objective is mostly to daily drive it but have a decent amount of get up if that helps. im most likely going to get the rtek ecu because of the simple fact that its cheaper, and shortly after im going to replace the turbo, i still need to get the piping done and buy those new injectors so my priorities are as follows

injectors, piping & downpipe
ecu
new turbo

just found a guy selling a knightsport turbo/manifold and downpipe i need the downpipe and the new turbo so i could kill 2 birds with one stone thatd leave just the piping, ecu and injectors

once again i greatly appreciate everyones input

Brody8877

iTrader: (10)

i didnt know knightsport made a turbo manifold.

any cheap, powerful and reliable never goes in the same sentence.