Turbo I believe
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 11
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From: Reedsville, Pennsylvania
Turbo I believe
whats up guys,
I have a 1987 Turbo II with around 73k miles on it.. I purchased the car with no previous knowledge of what was done to the car. I have a little idea about how these rotary engines work. 1st problem is that about a month after I bought the car it began missing around 3700rpm and stumbles the whole way up to the redline when I apply heavy throttle. If I easy on the gas, it will smoothly accelerate up but not when under full load. I have taken it to many garages just to end up spending all kinds of money on sensors that never fixed the problem. For some weird reason my car does not have an airpump?????? It also has a full turbo back racing beat exhaust with a fuel cut defensor. 2nd problem is I think recently my turbo went out. I was driving it and looked in my rear-view mirror and saw the most amount of smoke coming out the back of my car. I immediately pulled over and then my oil light came on along with a buzzer that made me almost sh*t my pants. The car was still idling fine when I killed it. I got out and there was oil on the ground. A friend of mine told me it was probably the turbo. I am not sure and before I take it somewhere to get looked at I would like a little idea of what I am gettin into..Thanx everyone.
P.S. The car idled fine before I turned it off so I dont think it was the engine. Can a car loose oil when the turbo goes?
P.S.S Also wonderin if it was the turbo..what do I need to do to fix it..Rebuild, new, or and kits out there at a decent price......Thanx again
I have a 1987 Turbo II with around 73k miles on it.. I purchased the car with no previous knowledge of what was done to the car. I have a little idea about how these rotary engines work. 1st problem is that about a month after I bought the car it began missing around 3700rpm and stumbles the whole way up to the redline when I apply heavy throttle. If I easy on the gas, it will smoothly accelerate up but not when under full load. I have taken it to many garages just to end up spending all kinds of money on sensors that never fixed the problem. For some weird reason my car does not have an airpump?????? It also has a full turbo back racing beat exhaust with a fuel cut defensor. 2nd problem is I think recently my turbo went out. I was driving it and looked in my rear-view mirror and saw the most amount of smoke coming out the back of my car. I immediately pulled over and then my oil light came on along with a buzzer that made me almost sh*t my pants. The car was still idling fine when I killed it. I got out and there was oil on the ground. A friend of mine told me it was probably the turbo. I am not sure and before I take it somewhere to get looked at I would like a little idea of what I am gettin into..Thanx everyone.
P.S. The car idled fine before I turned it off so I dont think it was the engine. Can a car loose oil when the turbo goes?
P.S.S Also wonderin if it was the turbo..what do I need to do to fix it..Rebuild, new, or and kits out there at a decent price......Thanx again
Rpm abuser
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 780
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From: New Port Richey, FL
does the engine run anymore, or did it blow? also about the air pump. You dont need an air pump if you have no cats on your exhaust because all it does is pump fresh air into the cats to pass emmissions. there is no grave importance to it. most people take it off on purpose to save hp. take it to a place and check compression on the motor. if the rear rotor housing has less compression it means your car blew an apex seals. if there was alot of compression it could of blew a seal to the housing of the rotor. the real question is there engine damage. you can pick up a new rotor rebuild for about $500 at rotoryaviation.com. and ive seen some good rebuilt turbo's on rotoryworld.com good luck
i love assembly lube
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 284
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From: High Point, NC
the stumble is the secondary injectors. check the connection where the wiring harness plugs into the injector. that could cause the problem, as it did in my 88 n/a. if they are secure, and it is still doing this problem, send the injectors to a shop to get them checked out. so many people told me my TPS was bad and all this junk, but it was simply just the connection on my injectors.
The hesitation:
Where is the oil leaking from, it it is leaking from the turbo, you might have blown a seal, if it isnt from there then it is probally somewhere else.
I have this hesitation whenever I accelerate right around 3500-4000 RPM
The dreaded 3800 RPM hesitation is cause 90% of the time by poor ground connections between the engine, the battery, and the car. Clean or replace all the under hood ground connections. Some people have also claimed replacing/regrounding the pressure sensor's ground wire has helped. If there is still a problem after that, look at cleaning the fuel injectors and (on a N/A) that your 5th/6th ports are operating correctly.
The dreaded 3800 RPM hesitation is cause 90% of the time by poor ground connections between the engine, the battery, and the car. Clean or replace all the under hood ground connections. Some people have also claimed replacing/regrounding the pressure sensor's ground wire has helped. If there is still a problem after that, look at cleaning the fuel injectors and (on a N/A) that your 5th/6th ports are operating correctly.
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 11,576
Likes: 27
From: Morristown, TN (east of Knoxville)
The stumble is either one of the secondary injectors (they come on between 3500-4000 with 1/2 throttle or more) not working...due to it being stuck shut, a bad connection, wire in the harness, or possible (if it is an 87 model) a bad resistor in the injector resistor pack. Not your average joe at the corner garage will be able to fix this for you.
As for the oil, turbos just don't up and **** oil out on the road. Sounds like you blew an oil line...there are 2 oil cooler hoses on the drivers side of the car, near the front is where they bust. Check it out. Do NOT run the car anymore, at all. IF you need to check for the leak, fill the car with oil, remove the EGI fuse closest to the engine in the underhood fusebox, then crank it over for a while. IT'll build oil pressure and you can find the leak that way without danger to the engine.
As for the oil, turbos just don't up and **** oil out on the road. Sounds like you blew an oil line...there are 2 oil cooler hoses on the drivers side of the car, near the front is where they bust. Check it out. Do NOT run the car anymore, at all. IF you need to check for the leak, fill the car with oil, remove the EGI fuse closest to the engine in the underhood fusebox, then crank it over for a while. IT'll build oil pressure and you can find the leak that way without danger to the engine.
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