Turbo Coolant Return Leak
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 3,881
Likes: 3
From: Jacksonville, Tampa & Tallahassee
(87' TII)
So I've been tacking and fixing minor leaks for the past year, first the stock rad, then the water pump, then the heater hose, then the 90* throttle body hose etc...
Finally I come to those stupid LIM O-rings; RTV'd em up cleaned the mating surfaces, and installed a new gasket, and bolted everything back up.
As I get underneath to remove the jackstands I notice a small drop of coolant on the bottom of the coolant return line for the turbo...took the hose off, not surprisingly its got a small crack, no biggie replaced the hose.
Come out the next day and there's a small puddle under the new hose
Nothing else is leaking, those hose is not punctured, cracked or cut, but there is coolant all along the underside of the hose. I slid the hose all the way up to the nipple for the WP housing and it stopped for a minute or two, but then it started leaking again.
How do I fix this? Can the nipple leak where it connects to the housing? Is it replaceable?
So I've been tacking and fixing minor leaks for the past year, first the stock rad, then the water pump, then the heater hose, then the 90* throttle body hose etc...
Finally I come to those stupid LIM O-rings; RTV'd em up cleaned the mating surfaces, and installed a new gasket, and bolted everything back up.
As I get underneath to remove the jackstands I notice a small drop of coolant on the bottom of the coolant return line for the turbo...took the hose off, not surprisingly its got a small crack, no biggie replaced the hose.
Come out the next day and there's a small puddle under the new hose

Nothing else is leaking, those hose is not punctured, cracked or cut, but there is coolant all along the underside of the hose. I slid the hose all the way up to the nipple for the WP housing and it stopped for a minute or two, but then it started leaking again.
How do I fix this? Can the nipple leak where it connects to the housing? Is it replaceable?
For starters get a longer hose and make sure it is up 3/4 of the way at least on both nipples.
As for your question yes there can be a crack or hole in the nipple any where from the base to the tip. Not sure exactly how to fix it cuz ive never had that problem (yet), but what i would do
is after you get a longer hose and make sure both ends are clamped tight
if it is still leaking take the hose off and plug the nipple on the turbo and pressurize the coolant system to see if the is a leak in that. if not put unplug put the hose back on and pressurize the system and find the leak.
now to fix it i would try either soldering the crack or whole or perhaps jb weld to first try and stop it. if that doesnt work i would try removing the nipple and replace it with another. not sure how they work screw in or weld in. I know you can buy screw in nipples so you may need to cut it off die grind the threads and tap a new thread for a screw in one. But on the other hand depending where the crack or whole is ie: if it is near the end or middle you could cut off that part of the nipple and just use a new longer hose and go right to the top and clamp down tightly.
But what ever you do find the leak first!!
As for your question yes there can be a crack or hole in the nipple any where from the base to the tip. Not sure exactly how to fix it cuz ive never had that problem (yet), but what i would do
is after you get a longer hose and make sure both ends are clamped tight
if it is still leaking take the hose off and plug the nipple on the turbo and pressurize the coolant system to see if the is a leak in that. if not put unplug put the hose back on and pressurize the system and find the leak.
now to fix it i would try either soldering the crack or whole or perhaps jb weld to first try and stop it. if that doesnt work i would try removing the nipple and replace it with another. not sure how they work screw in or weld in. I know you can buy screw in nipples so you may need to cut it off die grind the threads and tap a new thread for a screw in one. But on the other hand depending where the crack or whole is ie: if it is near the end or middle you could cut off that part of the nipple and just use a new longer hose and go right to the top and clamp down tightly.
But what ever you do find the leak first!!
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 3,881
Likes: 3
From: Jacksonville, Tampa & Tallahassee
Thanks,
I know the hose should be longer, although thats longer than the one that came on it (and thats what I used to size this one), and the leak persists despite the hose completely covering the nipple.
I'll try the pressure test, and hope that the nipple is rusted through somewhere, because I highly doubt those nipples are screw in, and welding and cutting (which requires tools I don't have) are exactly what I'm seeking to avoid.....along with sourcing and replacing the waterpump housing.
I'll try the JB weld idea, looks like I'll have to drain the coolant to keep that area dry long enough for it to stick...
I know the hose should be longer, although thats longer than the one that came on it (and thats what I used to size this one), and the leak persists despite the hose completely covering the nipple.
I'll try the pressure test, and hope that the nipple is rusted through somewhere, because I highly doubt those nipples are screw in, and welding and cutting (which requires tools I don't have) are exactly what I'm seeking to avoid.....along with sourcing and replacing the waterpump housing.
I'll try the JB weld idea, looks like I'll have to drain the coolant to keep that area dry long enough for it to stick...
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Thread Starter
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 3,881
Likes: 3
From: Jacksonville, Tampa & Tallahassee
Hose that came off didn't have clamps on either end (and it didn't leak), but I believe it was 5/16 cuz you could see how it had to stretch around the nipple. I'll get some 3/8 hose and some clamps while the JB Weld dries....
yeah try a clamp dude... the hose/nipple could be seated funny and a lil bit is coming out, Ive seen it b4. Hopefully thats it. JB Weld wet stick should work good if its a crack or something *temp fix*, i like that stuff better than the typical epoxy type.
after pulling my turbo off to port the wastegate i am having he same problem (or at least i think that is where the leak is coming from. im gona find small hoseclamps and put 2 on the motor side of the hose cause thats where i originally had the leak that gav me the most problems
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 3,881
Likes: 3
From: Jacksonville, Tampa & Tallahassee
Clamps were not the the issue. The old hose was 5/16" stretched over a 3/8" nipple (probably 1/2" with rust/corrosion
) so it sealed just fine.
However over time, the heat of the turbo petrified this hose such that it no longer had any elasticity, therefore because it was not placed in the EXACT same position as it was originally, it allowed coolant to seep past.
It was replaced with a 3/8" hose (w/o clamps) which obviously fit much more loosely and still allowed coolant to leak.
) so it sealed just fine. However over time, the heat of the turbo petrified this hose such that it no longer had any elasticity, therefore because it was not placed in the EXACT same position as it was originally, it allowed coolant to seep past.
It was replaced with a 3/8" hose (w/o clamps) which obviously fit much more loosely and still allowed coolant to leak.
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 3,881
Likes: 3
From: Jacksonville, Tampa & Tallahassee
JB Weld Takes too long to cure and this seemed a more appropriate product for the job; I used JB's Water Weld to sure up the base of the nipple

Longer hose w/ hose clamps added....

Since I have no coolant, I'll have to wait till tomorrow to see if this was effective....

Longer hose w/ hose clamps added....

Since I have no coolant, I'll have to wait till tomorrow to see if this was effective....
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