xoulu

Hi what fluids are you guys using on your FC?
Can you guys verify the amount also

Oil (6.1 quarts?) - I will be using Royal Purple

Transmission (2.1 quarts?) - ?

Rear Differential (1.4 quarts?) - ? (Can I use ReLine 75W90 GL-5?)

Limited Slip (1.4 quarts) - ?

Coolant (9.2 quarts?) - ?

Power Steering (size?) - ?

Brakes (size?) - ? (I have some Motul RBF600 Dot4 can I use?)

Clutch (size?) - ?

Sparks plug - ?

Thanks!

clokker

iTrader: (2)

Engine oil: Castrol GTX 10w/30
Trans/diff: Red Line
Brake/clutch: ATE Super Blue
Spark plugs: NGK
Coolant: distilled water, Water Wetter, generic "green" antifreeze
Washer fluid: distilled water and rubbing alcohol
Air for tires: imported nitrogen

xoulu

What red line are you using for the trans? Can you use the same for the trans and diff?

Do you remember how many quarts you used for each?


Thanks!

jdonnell

iTrader: (1)

Oil: Valvoline VR-1 20w/50 (I like it because it has ZDDP); ~4.5 qts
Rear Diff: Amsoil Transmission Fluid 75W90 (~1.3 qts)
Trans: Same as above; Sometimes Redline MT-90 (~2.9-3 qts)
P/S: Castrol ATF
Brake Fluid: Prestone DOT 3
Plugs / Wires: NGK
Coolant: Mazda Type FL22

eage8

iTrader: (9)

You'll want to use Redline MT-90 for the transmission.

no, don't use that in the diff, use 75w90, or Amsoil SG 75w140

FSM should have fill quantities.

xoulu

What Castrol ATF are you using for the P/S?

jdonnell

iTrader: (1)

Bottle says 'Domestic Vehicle ATF'. They have a newer version but it doesn't have the correct Dextron listed as I recall. Not sure what to use after my bottle is empty?

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

street car:

engine oil: anything, if you're a snob, castrol 10-30 or 10-40 is fine, if you are paranoid, 20-50 is ok, the engine doesn't seem to care much.
Manual trans: 50% ATF, 50% gear oil, works just as well as synthetic, but is cheap and available anywhere.
diff: i like redline 75-90, but any 75-90 is fine.
brake/clutch fluid: any dot3/dot4 is ok, i usually use the Mazda stuff, for some reason i have tons?
coolant: i like the Mazda stuff, its ~$22 a gallon, but its a more pleasant shade of green than most coolants.
p/s just uses atf, or ps fluid, not sure how much
spark plugs: stock NGK's

the front hubs: i would use a synthetic, the redline CV2 works well here
hinges/locks: we used to have this spray lube, that didn't leave a residue, brush on grease works too.


race/track car

engine oil: castrol HD40, you want a straight weight oil. or idemitsu, it was designed for a rotary race car.
premix: idemitsu, see SAE 922375, its designed for the rotary.
coolant: water, with water wetter
manual trans: redline MT90
diff: redline 75-90, or the 80-140, or shockproof if you like changing oil a lot
brake: the ATE was good, motul is good, freshness is most important

front hubs need synthetic, and possibly the rear bearings too.

Evil Aviator

Engine - Castrol GTX (See the FSM for the proper "weight" for your local weather)
Manual Transmission - Red Line MT-90
Differential - Red Line 75W90
Coolant - Prestone and distilled water
Grease - Royal Purple or Red Line
Brake Fluid - ATE Super Blue (Typ 200) or Castrol LMA (Advanced Performance)
Clutch Fluid - Castrol LMA (Advanced Performance) or generic DOT 3
Fuel - 87 Octane Top Tier Gasoline

I use a Mityvac fluid evacuator for the brake fluid, and for filling the transmission and differential I use a simple gravity system that I made myself with vinyl tubing, hot glue, old oil bottle, and a stick that acts as a plug for the tubing.

The 6.1 qt capacity is for a completely dry engine, such as one that has just been rebuilt. Otherwise, not all of the oil will drain, so you will end up using about 5.5 qt or so. The normal burn rate is about 1 qt per 3,000 miles, which works out well if you are on the 3,000 mi interval, otherwise you will need to periodically add a quart if you are on the 5,000 or 7,500 mi interval as per the FSM.

Synthetic engine oil is usually a waste of money for a street car. However, if you drive your car in the cold Alaska winter, then synthetic is a good idea.

I really like the Fumoto oil drain valve (F-106 with no nipple). It makes oil changes easier, it eliminates the need to replace the crush washer, and if you have a low-profile drain pain then you can change the oil without jacking up the car (assuming normal ride height and no incline).
Fumoto Valve | Qwik Valve™

Go to this website, click on "Second Generation" at the top of the page, then download the FSM for your car (1988 and earlier or 1989 and later). The capacities are listed near the beginning of each appropriate chapter. The two maintenance schedules are at the front of the manual. Use Normal if you just use your car for commuting on fairly level ground, or use Unique if you race, autocross, often drive up steep hills, or otherwise place a high load on the car.
Foxed.ca - Mazda RX-7 Manuals

I recommend a good synthetic gear oil for the transmission. Personally, I don't trust that Mobil 1 uses a significant amount of actual synthetic base stock in their oil, but all of the other major brands seem to be good (Red Line, Royal Purple, Amsoil, Motul, Idemitsu, Neo, etc.). I tend to use Red Line because I prefer Group V base stock over Group IV, and it is usually less expensive than the other brands.

Be sure to note that a non-turbo transmission has a fill hole and a drain hole, while a turbo transmission has a fill hole, inspection hole, and two drain holes. Always open the fill hole first because it sucks to drain it first and then find out that the fill plug is stuck and requires professional help for removal.

Your car has either one or the other, not both. Regardless, Red Line 75W90 GL-5 will work great either way.

See the FSM for the proper mix for your local weather, and follow the procedure in the FSM so you don't end up with air in the system. You can flush the system with a garden hose, but let the water drain out and fill with distilled water and ethylene glycol coolant.

Yes, DOT 4 is fine. The one to avoid is DOT 5.

Motul RBF 600 is overkill for most situations, so once you use it up then you may want to switch to something cheaper. ATE Typ 200 (Super Blue) is nearly as good for racing, but it sells for about half the price. For street driving and occasional autocross, Castrol Advanced Performance is a good quality, long-lasting brake fluid. You can compare them with this chart:
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/gr...pID=BRAKEFLUID

Read here:
Spark Plugs

archaphil

iTrader: (1)

For $30 that is a nifty gadget.

rx7jocke

engine oil: castrol magnatec 10w40 fully syntetic
premix: triboron 1%
gearbox: redline shockproof heavyweight (best mod on my car)
Differential: castrol 75w140 (nissan gtr standard oil)
coolant: special racecoolant, cant remember name but its transparant
Brakes: noname dot5

thinking of going shockproof in diff aswell with lsd additive

xoulu

Thank you all!

Evil Aviator

Yes, it is my favorite low-budget modification, and I have been using them since 1988 with excellent results. Drain plugs are standard equipment on aircraft, and very common on race cars. It is beyond my comprehension why auto manufacturers don't install them at the factory.

Just for clarification, DOT 5 is not compatible with DOT 3 or 4, not compatible with ABS, and requires complete flushing of the system when converting. I would recommend avoiding this conversion in most cases.

rx7jocke

i changed to it when i rebuildt my calipers and changed all brake lines and master cylinder.... i removed abs aswell. it was also a different color so u can tell when it is flushed :-)

clokker

iTrader: (2)

I have always understood DOT5 fluid to be primarily used for cars that don't get driven much (like show cars) because its silicon base isn't as hydroscopic as regular brake fluid.
Other than its aversion to absorbing water though, DOT5 isn't as good performance-wise as regular fluids.