Well, I saw a couple of threads about how to make a CAI for a TII and I wanted to try and see what I could come up with, you know, to test stuff...I was bored. I think I made it the straightest possible way trying to stay as close to 2.5" as possible. This is what I came up with. One 90 degree turn and one 27 degree at turbo inlet.

How well did that CAI do?

I'll wait for a couple of posts.

EDIT: And tell me why you think what you think.

 

Won't that get water in it when it rains?

Otherwise, very nice.

 

looks fine to me. Water is ok once in a while (don't go driving through rivers) but my main concern is the mud, drit and debris that could damage the filter and motor.

Will the fact that you go from a small diameter pipe to a large diameter coupler/pipe (right before the AFM) affect the velocity of the air?

now do you want us to try and figure out whether you gained/lost boost or had no effect?

 

it looks really ghetto. hopefully no water or mud gets in there

 

I don't think he's asking if it looks pretty. speaking of pretty, how's you lab retriever?? giggidy giggidy OH YEAH!

 

Ok, let me clarify a few things.

It is a ghetto/home depot mod that I made with left over intercooler piping, cuplers and stuff I had lying around. I know for the rain problem, and I didn't really care, I just wanted to try it out. Thats something I could figure out later. Also, how to make it smother.

The point was to see if I could get a gain.

 

well did you?

 

Do you think I did?

You didn't answer....in fact, nobody did.

 

You didn't out Mazda at all but you did the usual cai idea that everyone does. Mazda would have designed the car with the CAI in mind and would have made it function better.

 

This is really simple. I understand that in 1 hour, I didn't out-engineer Mazda, in the sense you use it, but did I get a gain?

And I only see 2 votes on the poll and 7 replies.

 

3 votes

 

i didn't vote because there is no way to get a conclusive answer. I can pull a YES out of my *** but It'd be full of **** (no pun intended).

I don't know. Honestly.

One part of me is saying: "yo, foolio he's pulling in MAD cold air now!"

The other one is saying: "yo, duuuuuuuude, look at that 90* bend! and then look at the diameter change between the pipe on the filter end and the couple/pipe on the AFM side. that COULD cause an issue with the velocity of the air going past the AFM."

then some little bastard is saying: "STFU you can't tell so quit speculating and get some AIT sensors on there!"

So, all the voices in my head are making me crazy.

 

You need to turn your AFM so it's level again. Gravity is helping the flapper door stay closed.

 

Why would you not just pipe some cool air to the area where the filter is originally with some flex tubing?

 

I think Mazda wins and you failed. the flapper door in the afm is very sensitive and by turning it on it's side, it will fall open a little due to our ever present friend, gravity. it should be placed like they had it from the factory, with the bottom down.

 

The stock air intake system pulled in cool air....

Don't worry about it. You can't measure it on a dyno.

The size of the piping will make no difference to the airflow velocity through the AFM. You don't want velocity before the TB if you are looking for more power. Velocity is directly related to pressure which equals to airflow resistance.

The flapper is vertical, gravity is not keeping it shut. If the AFM intake side was angled downward then you might have a very small case which will only get shot down by others with their AFMS mounted weird with no bad sydefects.

We can't tell you that. But from looking at it.. the reducers will cause restriction but still won't be enough to measure on a dyno.

 

Without some way to 100% seal off the filter from the engine bay heat, that tube will make ZERO positive effects and will only make negitive effects on the overall appearance of your car.

So tell me, have you taken an AFM and stood the intake side straight up? Obveously not. If that was effecting the AFM, which im sure it does a tiny bit it could make the engine run leaner as the CFM climbs. Now installing the AFM straight down or straight up will make a large difference.

 

Hmmm, interesting. Keep going people.

 

Its all been covered before.

 

Sure it has, but we still have 50/50 opinions on the matter.

 

Thats because people don't know about airflow.

 

cooooool explain it.

 

I'm not quite sure you even know what engineering is.

You've used PVC under the hood, which is well known for breaking down at elevated temperatures(it loses its plasticizer and cracking - which explains why Mazda never used it on any of their cars under the hood), you didn't support your MAF sensor with a bracket, you are using unlined hose clamps which cut into the coupler, you don't have any way to keep water from getting sucked into the air filter, and I'm guessing you don't have beads rolled into the ends of your chrome pipes going into the air filter.

 

Read the thread, and then answer. Makes you seem less like an idiot.

 

If your willing to learn everything about fluid dynamics, go read online or take a course. Im still learning it but I know some of the basics

As far as restriction goes for bends, there would be about .05 - .10 inch H20 with a smooth 90 degree bend ranging from 2" to 4". Thats not even .01% of increase in pressure or drop in air density. You could have 6 bends and still not be able to measure the power lost.