Okay i've tried just about every method there is for setting the tps. If i set the tps at 1 volt at idle(hot engine) using the green/red wire i get hesitation with light load and light throttle application.

If i use the ohms method by unplugging the tps connector and set the tps to 1 ohm using the black and green/red wire the hesitation goes away. But when i hook everything back up and check the voltage at the green/red wire it reads at .64 volts. Does this mean i have a bad tps??? Why are these two methods of testing so far off?

I've checked for dead spots before and found none...and i made sure that all of the above testing was done on a fully hot engine... and my motor pulls 19inhg. Doubt if it is a vacuum leak, all vacuum lines have been replaced.

 

It should test closer than that, so you may be looking for a weak ground or a weak harness connection - maybe at the ECU.

 

where does the black wire at the tps ground at?? or does the ecu ground it??

 

The difference of 1kohm and .64volts wouldn't that indicate a high resistance or something wrong in the tps NOT the ecu end???? Anyone??

 

hello......

 

If you are suffering from hesitation maybe you should try searching the Archive.

At the very top there is a nice little thread about regrounding things. It also says that it might fix hesitation.

 

all factory grounds have been cleaned and tightened....

 

Oops.
Weak grounds are so common that I jumped on that without looking further.

Resistance ~1K, Volts ~.6 -- The voltage source must be weak, or the TPS resistance is not stable/repeating.
Check the IG1 12v feed to the TPS. If it's good then the TPS has to be about worn out.

 

sure thing sureshot....thanks for the answer. I'll check it tonight. thanks

 

well i got a break from work and went out to my car to test, this is what i got at the tps:

green\red- 1v

orange-5v

yellow-.89v

red-5v

blue- ground 12v to battery pos

black- ground12v to battery pos

all measurements where taken with engine warm and tps connector connected....but didn't you say there is supposed to be a 12v feed wire to the tps. The only 12v i got was the blue and black wires but only when connected meter to battery pos. Should i be getting 12v somewhere where im not getting it???

 

The 12v reading is what you should see at one of the two pins of the TPS check connector. One should show 0 and one should show ~12v. Key on engine fully warmed up.

 

Oops - I did it again - The signal voltage supply to the TPS is 5 volts.

So - the TPS seems OK.

Now about the mis-fire. Any more symtoms?

 

right....so the supply voltage is good then right??? then all that leaves is a bad tps. remember 1kohm on narrow range = .64v to much of a difference

 

missfire?????????? well hesitation i would call it....so would you say i need a new tps then??

 

Does it matter if which side of the TPS check connector shows 12V, & which 0?

(A)(B)
..(C)

^ if I'm looking at the plug like this, with the positive line on the multimeeter in (C.) & the negative on A or B,..
Should I set (A) to 12v & (B) to 0v?..
or (B) to 12v & (A) to 0v.
..or does it make a difference?

 

Here is that video of my previous bad TPS mis-fire. link to short video

That TPS had a 0 ohms spot at about 10% throttle.

 

what i just checked with all the voltages was checking the wiring and the ecu end right not the tps

 

Is the dealer the only one that sells a tps....should i look aftermarket or is that a bad idea???

 

i found one at advance auto parts for $138 bucks....thats great compared to 350 that mazda wants. GP Sorenson makes the one at advance. Would this tps work i mean all that is in there is resitor right

 

When you are checking and setting TPS voltage at the TPS check connector, it makes no difference whether A-B or A-C shows 12v as long as you adjust the TPS such that the other shows 0. Set it and do a 10-15 minute test drive. Then come back and verify the setting. Then make sure you set the idle speed to 600-800 rpm.