trying to change oil wtf???
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 632
Likes: 0
From: Austin, TX; JABLAM!, WA; Iraq
Originally posted by scathcart
lol
we told the customers for one.
and two, a mechanic would do the same thing. Do you know a better way (without drilling into the bolt and using an ez-out) to get a bolt off? I don't. I usually would just wire brush the paint and weld a nut on the end and then crack 'er off. Easy, no damage.
Sean
lol
we told the customers for one.
and two, a mechanic would do the same thing. Do you know a better way (without drilling into the bolt and using an ez-out) to get a bolt off? I don't. I usually would just wire brush the paint and weld a nut on the end and then crack 'er off. Easy, no damage.
Sean
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 287
Likes: 0
From: Marion, AR 72364
I noticed recently on my 86 NA that the oil pan drain is shaped a little strange. Instead of being a threaded hole with a square edge for the bolt to seal to, there is a taper, or reverse chamfer. This taper is shaped like the hole was countersunk. The oil drain plug had a crushable aluminum washer on it that had roughly conformed to the taper. It leaked some, so I did away with this and used a copper washer from the parts store.
Perhaps you have a similar situation and the thing is really locked down because of the taper. From what you describe the problem may require putting the vehicle on a lift so more effective methods can be used.
I have a lot of experience with EZ-Outs. They are ineffective trying to back out a bolt that is siezed into the threads.
As a last resort, the suggestion to weld a nut on the plug head is a good one. The heat from welding will cause the bolt to expand, but it can't because of the relatively cold threaded hole. This means the plug will actually be compressed some. When it cools off it will be microscopically smaller than it was and should come out easily.
Perhaps you have a similar situation and the thing is really locked down because of the taper. From what you describe the problem may require putting the vehicle on a lift so more effective methods can be used.
I have a lot of experience with EZ-Outs. They are ineffective trying to back out a bolt that is siezed into the threads.
As a last resort, the suggestion to weld a nut on the plug head is a good one. The heat from welding will cause the bolt to expand, but it can't because of the relatively cold threaded hole. This means the plug will actually be compressed some. When it cools off it will be microscopically smaller than it was and should come out easily.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
alphawolff
1st Generation Specific (1979-1985)
17
Nov 17, 2015 05:57 PM
rotor_veux
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
7
Aug 31, 2015 07:49 PM



