try to get my carb to run right
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try to get my carb to run right
ok ive been looking every were and i cant find a good write up on how to hook in a 85 distributer in my 86 13b, i put the racing beat holly setup on and tuned it... i had it run on the factory cas and it lags like a *****. dose any have a good diagram on factary parts. please help
matt
matt
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Ive got the same setup. Im on the stock CAS and the car is pretty slow. I have heard people say it will run the same with a distributor, but I think it will run better. How do you tune the holley? Can you feel your secondaries coming on because I cant feel mine working. A shop down the street told me they werent working due to low compression, but I think that is BS. Where in GA are you at? I live in lawrenceville. I am going to try to figure out how to wire in the distributor it shouldnt be that hard.
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i dont live in ga, i use my brothers name and he lives down there and he dose not have a 7 anymore he drives an 8... i live out side philly. my boy did it for me. he messed with hollys on pition motors so i had him do it. and i feel it kick in but its to slow to really feel it
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It's really easy to hook up a first gen dizzy. Just go to the first gen section, and download the FSM, just like i'm sure, you have the second gen FSM, right? It's not exactly a complicated feat of wiring. I'm running a 12a Dizzy right now, due to the CAS code not working for the megasquirt, way back when I built it. I'm going back to the CAS and regular coils now, though.
I honestly don't think it will help your problem, though.
I honestly don't think it will help your problem, though.
#6
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Remove cas, install distributor (make sure modules are working), install coils (MSD blaster2's work great) Install ground and voltage to coils, get a set of plug cables and install them, the distributor cap is marked t1, t2, l1, l2 (trailing-leading) or you can use the dummy method: T1=Top Front Plug, T2=Top Rear Plug, L1 = Lower Front Plug, L2 = Lower Rear Plug... Then install the distributor to coil cables...
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If you can, you'll want to run a direct fire setup, you can use the various 'mods' as well, but whatever you can do to get the load off of those j109's would be ideal. Expect it to be a bit on the 'laggier' side and less responsive all around even when converted and the carb is tuned though. What size carb are you using?
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i did the racing beats set up 600 cmf holly, rb header, i and a miner street port, and every seems to have there same opinion on a carb set up i personaly have not like my fuel injection since i had it
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Yeah, i've used that setup and most other combinations of carb setups, and they all suffer from being a little laggy, and somewhat sluggish. FI's a pain to get used to or get working right, but it's generally a lot smoother and responsive, but that's getting off-topic.
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Have you checked for power at your ignitors? Using the stock ignitors? What coil setup are you going with, a stock setup, blaster/aftermarket ran through the cap/etc?
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ive been goin with stock, i tryed wiring the distrib and i gess the ignitors are what on the side.. ive never messed with a distrib befor, and i try 85 coils, and supposively here a way to do it with the 2nd gen coils
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You can't use the 2nd gen coils without doing a little rigging (IE removing the ignitors, making the 'trick' board, etc). For now I'd try using the stock FB coils, all you should have to do is ground them, run the signal wire and an ignition sourced +12V to the coils terminal and the ignitor, I'm sure you can find which pins/etc in the 1st gen FAQ under the direct fire guides.
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Ignitor, you'll need +12V (ignition switched) to go to the positive terminal on the coil, as well as the B terminal on the ignitor, then a wire from the negative terminal on the coil to the C terminal on the ignitor.
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Originally Posted by Angel Guard Racing Team
Ignitors!!!!!!!! Where the hell did I get the word modules from???? LOL!!!! Sorry...
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