So.. The mistake all started with my friend driving the car.


He drove with the E-break on. That blew out my breaks I'm guessing.

And now, my flywheel went loose and my starter busted.


Started fix, easy as hell.

Breaks, even easier.


Transmission removal, not so easy.


I was reading up on some stories and instructions on how to remove the transmission.


Not many steps, I'm glad. But the thing is, is it a lot easier said than done?


The worst work I've done on my 7 would probably be changing starter.


But with all these instructions, removing the transmission seems a lot more time consuming than difficult.


Someone please tell me what I'm saying is right and give me hope. Thanks!

 

It's a bit of a pain in the *** to be honest. You have to take off whatever heat shielding blocking the driveshaft, the driveshaft, shifter, disconnect reverse lights and speedo cable. After that you can attack the tranny bolts. Keep them in order, they are not all the same size.

Unless you have those swivel head sockets it might be easier to take off the upper intake to get to the top bolts. Then have a friend with you on the reinstall because lining up the spline (I think it's called) is easier said than done. About an 8 hour job unless you have rad tools and have done it before

 

Wait why do I need a swivel head socket for?


I thought I can just unscrew it from the top of my car? :O


If I can, then it'll be a lot easier for me since my center console is busted anyways.

 

You can do it either way..... but I will have to say if you have about 2 feet of extensions and a swivel its a lot easier. Trust me...... I've taken my tranny out so many times I think I could do it in my sleep. If you try doing it from the top you will be a little cramped for room to actually turn your wrench unless the whole intake is removed from the motor.

 

you're good to go if you have the swivel head sockets. If you have that swivel attatchment, it can be done, but the angles bind it up real easy.

 

+1 Having a few decent tools and a 200 pc. set of sockets and ratchets will come in handy, always.

As said, the job is not too bad. It's just that this type of job can have some pain in the *** delays associated with unbolting rusty exhaust fasteners, and clearance issues. A hoist makes thing MUCH better, especially because of the room needed to move the tranny away from under the car (without a hoist). Don't forget to unbolt the slave cylinder from the Clutch Bellhousing area on top. Oh, and watch for leaning the tranny down at the back and leaking gear oil from the rear or the tranny - it smells for damn long!

BTW, your buddy driving with the e-brake on probably just wore the rear brakes a bit.

Everything else is just the car making you pay for letting him drive.

 

i did mine with an impact gun both times i did it and makes it a ton easier. i dropped it the second time in under 1 hour start to finish. its harder to get the trans back in than it is to get it out.

 

Its really not that hard to do, I pulled mine last Sat in under 4hrs, including exhaust, heat shields-------

 

Out of curiosity, how many of you guys tilted the engine back on its mounts when sliding the transmission out? Did you unbolt the engine mounts, or just push down on the back of the block/lift the front? Just wondering for future use. I've actually never dropped just the transmission. I've only pulled engines and transmissions together.

Also, the biggest pain in the *** will be getting the splines on the input shaft to line up perfectly (when reinstalling it). This can be a hassle even when you're not laying underneath the car with a 90 lb. object balancing over your head. And never ever tighten the bell housing bolts to "pull" the transmission onto the engine. You'll end up with a ruined pilot bearing.

 

Taking the transmission out wasn't an issue at all for me, as long as you take the shifter out. I just unbolted it, climbed under, and wrestled it out onto my chest. Getting it back in took me pushing on the top of the intake to rock the motor back and a friend underneath benching it back into place.

 

Okay well I got the transmission out in about 2 hours of working.


A LOT easier than I thought it would be.

The instructions I was reading up made it 100 times harder than I thought.

So now here is a new question:

Flywheel's teeth busted off, so I need a new flywheel.

problem is, I can't afford a new one. I'm a high school student. My budget is tight.

Soo.. Which flywheel will work fine in an S4 N/A?

S4 TII
S5 N/A
S5 TII

Let me know please! I need to know which ones I can purchase without worry off of these forums. >

 

A s4 n/a flywheel.

 

Good points/questions, RotaryRocket88.

Through doing it the hard way, I've learned to loosen the engine mounts on the body side until the nuts are almost off (almost so I don't loose them and the washers). I usually get anybody I can find to tilt the engine back to align with the tranny. I also put a socket and ratchet on the front bolt and teach the helper to turn ONLY clockwise (as they see it) slowly when I'm ready, for the splines to align.

You mentioned it, but it's worth repeating. Do NOT force the two together by any means. When all is aligned well enough (gap all around tranny/engine is equal, splines into each other, input shaft into bearing), the two mate fairly easily.

edit: flywheel question: S4 NA is what you need, since the S5 NA would mess the engine balance up (different weight because the front weight and rotor weights are different), and TII flywheels are bigger diameter. S4 NA should be the cheapest anyway. Ask in your local section, someone's bound to have a good one.

 

its soo easy.


its almost too easy. take teh shifter out completly.
drain fluid.
remove driveshaft
unplug everything.
remove clutch slave

unbolt tranny from engine.

unbolt crossmember from car, and then just pull it back and plop, out she fell.

or just use pieces of wood so it falls on something relatively soft.


i had to change out my tranny numerous times. its not that bad at all.


heres a tip. get a buddy with a broomhandle and a length of rope. that way he can hold up the rear of the tranny ( from inside the car) and you can just bench it out.


also, tilting the engine back is a HUGE help.

 

awesome, I was just about to search for a thread like this

I'm about to install a new clutch and flywheel.

Does anyone have any advice on how to torque down the flywheel bolt correctly? I'll be borrowing the flywheel stopper and mazda flywheel tool from a friend (aka, a socket with a big bar welded to it) and it seems like I won't have much room down there to maneuver a giant bar...

 

get a lift? Or huge jackstands? Im about to do the same myself... luckily my buddy has a lift at his house!

 

no need for a lift. just jack up the car about a foot and a half.


also, dont forget about how and where the starter hooks up ( lectrical ocnnections,) end be carefull for the connector for the oil pressure gauge. its mounted to one of the bolts that bolts the bellhousing to the engine.

 

we only tilt it if it's being stubborn... be use a bar for leverage and CAREFULLY tilt the motor backwards. then it slides in/out fairly easily.

i usually tie the rope to the steering wheel...

MUSCLES!!!