transmission help
transmission help
ok so my transmission is starting 2 go out. and i have a 2nd one at home. i was wondering if there was any one near the Santa Monica area that can drop in the 2nd one in for me. when i go to the shop they are charging me around 400bucks to take the old one out and put the one in. any 1 know where i can get it drop'd in for less? or if someone can do it for me for less here on the forums.
ok so my transmission is starting 2 go out. and i have a 2nd one at home. i was wondering if there was any one near the Santa Monica area that can drop in the 2nd one in for me. when i go to the shop they are charging me around 400bucks to take the old one out and put the one in. any 1 know where i can get it drop'd in for less? or if someone can do it for me for less here on the forums.
- Get the car securely in the air on four jack stands OR two jack stands and a set of ramps.
- Unbolt your shifter from inside the car.
- Remove your oil filter (Hey, you can combine this with an oil change or simply replace the lost oil) so that you can easily access the slave cylinder bolts.
- Worm your way underneath your car with a can of PB (Assuming you were smart and purchased a can). Start soaking the heat shield bolts in it.
- While that's soaking, go ahead and disconnect your exhaust at the header. Depending on how clever and articulate you are, it may or may not be necessary to remove the Y-Pipe and mufflers as well...I've done it with the whole exhaust system still in the car..but that's another story.
- Remove the heat shields. Be careful with the 10mm heat shield bolts. This is why you had them soaking...they're brittle and pathetic and they'll **** themselves if you so much as look at them funny. Don't rush it and you won't break ANY of them.
- Get some duct tape or electrical tape (Hell, even aluminum tape will work) and tape your driveshaft to the tail shaft of the transmission. If you do not do this, and remove your driveshaft and attempt to remove the transmission you will lose your gear oil. You can make the decision to just change the gear oil...it's $10.00 for 4 quarts of the cheap coastal brand 80w-90. It'll work. If I were you I'd just freshen up your drivetrain by draining the fluid out of the transmission, remove the driveshaft separately and calling that situation taken care of.
- Remove your starter and disconnect all transmission associated wiring. There is a transmission ground on the passenger side firewall...remove this.
- Remove all transmission bolts. There are five.
- Have a helper support the transmission (Or simply use a jack with a transmission adapter) and unbolt the transmission crossmember from the car. Four bolts.
- Have a friend support the bellhousing of the transmission and you support the tail shaft. Wiggle and pull. Once the transmission is clear, drop it down and remove it from the car.
- This leaves you with the pressure plate and the clutch. Let me just tell you that if you're replacing the clutch, go ahead and replace the pilot bearing + dust seal and throw out bearing. This will cost you a total of $30.00 from advance auto...why have to go through all of this again just for $30.00 in parts? Do it now. If you bought a clutch kit, it will have come with a new clutch disc, pressure plate and throw out bearing...this runs about $170.00 from Advance Auto. So essentially, for about $210.00 you'll have a well reliable, long lasting, worry free 150,000 miles of motoring.
- There are six bolts and washers holding the pressure plate and the clutch to the flywheel. Remove these. Two of these bolts have smooth shoulders on them (you'll see what I'm talking about). Note the location of these bolts and maybe mark them for future reinstallation.
- Assuming you bought the pilot bearing and seal.... go ahead and remove the old one. The ideal situation is to find a friend of a friend of a friend who has the Pilot Bearing Puller that Mazdatrix sells (That Mazda makes and uses for this application). It will never be known to you just how important THAT SPECIFIC PULLER is until you've had to try and remove a Pilot Bearing without one. *IF* you cannot locate one, run up to your local AUTOZONE and rent the Pilot Bearing Puller 'Attachment' and the Slide Hammer it attaches to. It may be necessary to grind down and modify the teeth on the puller so it notches in behind the pilot bearing and pulls it out.
- Install the new pilot bearing by selecting a socket that it the SAME SIZE as the outer race of the pilot bearing. Using a small three or so inch extension aids this. LIGHTLY tap it into place. You want to tape it in flush with the base of the flare end on the eccentric shaft and then maybe 1/4" more for the dust seal (Using the same socket).
- Use about a pinky's worth of grease and work it into the new pilot bearing.
- Following the instructions that came with your clutch, bolt up the new disc and pressure plate. But first, you may want to examine your flywheel for cracks. It may be necessary to lightly sand the flywheel first. No cracks? No problem. Shoot it down with a good bath of brake cleaner.
- Take this time to replace your throw out bearing. It's easy...just remove the old one by hand actuating the clutch fork just far enough for it to pop off the little pivot points...and slide the new one on.
- Clean and VERY VERY VERY VERY VERY lightly grease the input shaft on the transmission.
- Installation is the reverse of removal. I'd really suggest replacing the gear oil and the bearings mentioned above...it'll really save you the heartbreak of repeating all of this over cheap *** parts. You may even want to give the tranny a good scrub down with some engine brite!
- Unbolt your shifter from inside the car.
- Remove your oil filter (Hey, you can combine this with an oil change or simply replace the lost oil) so that you can easily access the slave cylinder bolts.
- Worm your way underneath your car with a can of PB (Assuming you were smart and purchased a can). Start soaking the heat shield bolts in it.
- While that's soaking, go ahead and disconnect your exhaust at the header. Depending on how clever and articulate you are, it may or may not be necessary to remove the Y-Pipe and mufflers as well...I've done it with the whole exhaust system still in the car..but that's another story.
- Remove the heat shields. Be careful with the 10mm heat shield bolts. This is why you had them soaking...they're brittle and pathetic and they'll **** themselves if you so much as look at them funny. Don't rush it and you won't break ANY of them.
- Get some duct tape or electrical tape (Hell, even aluminum tape will work) and tape your driveshaft to the tail shaft of the transmission. If you do not do this, and remove your driveshaft and attempt to remove the transmission you will lose your gear oil. You can make the decision to just change the gear oil...it's $10.00 for 4 quarts of the cheap coastal brand 80w-90. It'll work. If I were you I'd just freshen up your drivetrain by draining the fluid out of the transmission, remove the driveshaft separately and calling that situation taken care of.
- Remove your starter and disconnect all transmission associated wiring. There is a transmission ground on the passenger side firewall...remove this.
- Remove all transmission bolts. There are five.
- Have a helper support the transmission (Or simply use a jack with a transmission adapter) and unbolt the transmission crossmember from the car. Four bolts.
- Have a friend support the bellhousing of the transmission and you support the tail shaft. Wiggle and pull. Once the transmission is clear, drop it down and remove it from the car.
- This leaves you with the pressure plate and the clutch. Let me just tell you that if you're replacing the clutch, go ahead and replace the pilot bearing + dust seal and throw out bearing. This will cost you a total of $30.00 from advance auto...why have to go through all of this again just for $30.00 in parts? Do it now. If you bought a clutch kit, it will have come with a new clutch disc, pressure plate and throw out bearing...this runs about $170.00 from Advance Auto. So essentially, for about $210.00 you'll have a well reliable, long lasting, worry free 150,000 miles of motoring.
- There are six bolts and washers holding the pressure plate and the clutch to the flywheel. Remove these. Two of these bolts have smooth shoulders on them (you'll see what I'm talking about). Note the location of these bolts and maybe mark them for future reinstallation.
- Assuming you bought the pilot bearing and seal.... go ahead and remove the old one. The ideal situation is to find a friend of a friend of a friend who has the Pilot Bearing Puller that Mazdatrix sells (That Mazda makes and uses for this application). It will never be known to you just how important THAT SPECIFIC PULLER is until you've had to try and remove a Pilot Bearing without one. *IF* you cannot locate one, run up to your local AUTOZONE and rent the Pilot Bearing Puller 'Attachment' and the Slide Hammer it attaches to. It may be necessary to grind down and modify the teeth on the puller so it notches in behind the pilot bearing and pulls it out.
- Install the new pilot bearing by selecting a socket that it the SAME SIZE as the outer race of the pilot bearing. Using a small three or so inch extension aids this. LIGHTLY tap it into place. You want to tape it in flush with the base of the flare end on the eccentric shaft and then maybe 1/4" more for the dust seal (Using the same socket).
- Use about a pinky's worth of grease and work it into the new pilot bearing.
- Following the instructions that came with your clutch, bolt up the new disc and pressure plate. But first, you may want to examine your flywheel for cracks. It may be necessary to lightly sand the flywheel first. No cracks? No problem. Shoot it down with a good bath of brake cleaner.
- Take this time to replace your throw out bearing. It's easy...just remove the old one by hand actuating the clutch fork just far enough for it to pop off the little pivot points...and slide the new one on.
- Clean and VERY VERY VERY VERY VERY lightly grease the input shaft on the transmission.
- Installation is the reverse of removal. I'd really suggest replacing the gear oil and the bearings mentioned above...it'll really save you the heartbreak of repeating all of this over cheap *** parts. You may even want to give the tranny a good scrub down with some engine brite!
thanks Acesanugal. we got all that done. sadly my friend had 2 go get some stitches
coz we didt see the nut behind the 6inch blot from the starter and he kinda jerkd it 2 hard. lost grip. and his finger got cut real bad. then ok hes working with one hand and i rarely work on my car myself. so now next day.(sunday) we start droping the tranny. yet again. it wouldnt just come out. (duh!! forgot to disconnect the dam clutch pressure.) ok got that. still wouldnt come out. we couldnt really get to the 5th blot. toke a while and we where working in the dark to so that didnt help. (10ish) now. next day (monday) tranny drops.! (forgot to wear dam eye protecter) lucky me i kept my eyes closed. tasted like 50 year old chocolate. anyways...ok old tranny is out. phew! (beer me!) now. we try puting in the new tranny. gos in. small problem. its not lining up correctly. sigh...now i am stuck.any know why it wont line up correctly?
coz we didt see the nut behind the 6inch blot from the starter and he kinda jerkd it 2 hard. lost grip. and his finger got cut real bad. then ok hes working with one hand and i rarely work on my car myself. so now next day.(sunday) we start droping the tranny. yet again. it wouldnt just come out. (duh!! forgot to disconnect the dam clutch pressure.) ok got that. still wouldnt come out. we couldnt really get to the 5th blot. toke a while and we where working in the dark to so that didnt help. (10ish) now. next day (monday) tranny drops.! (forgot to wear dam eye protecter) lucky me i kept my eyes closed. tasted like 50 year old chocolate. anyways...ok old tranny is out. phew! (beer me!) now. we try puting in the new tranny. gos in. small problem. its not lining up correctly. sigh...now i am stuck.any know why it wont line up correctly?
Last edited by epic; Nov 25, 2008 at 02:15 PM. Reason: for got 2 add from the starter
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