Okay I have a few questions regarding my first hands-on with a vehicle.
I am replacing the clutch with a new clutch kit, as well as a flywheel.

I am thinking about getting the OEM replacement clutch from exedy, and a used flywheel from the junkyard. But for worse case scenario, does anyone know of a reputable place to get an OEM flywheel for a 1987 N/A rx7? I don't really want the light weight ones since I don't have the money for an upgraded clutch kit to match up with the lightweight flywheel, nor do I have the money to get a light weight flywheel lol.

Another question is, what are the tools that you need to get the transmission out without taking the engine out. I am planning to replace clutch and flywheel from under the car. Maybe an impact wrench would be good for the flywheel?

I was wondering what bolt sizes I need to carry with me to the junkyard in order to get the flywheel out. As in what size bolts are holding up the tranny (tranny mount), what size bolts are used to attach the starter as well as the tranny to the engine.
Basically every bolt size as well as tool needed to get the tranny off, access the fly wheel, take flywheel off, install flywheel as well as new clutch, and to get the tranny on.

Thank you in advance guys. I am excited about working on my first car. Just need to walk in knowledgeable and not unguarded.

 

Wait...whats wrong with your flywheel where you need to source another one?

You will need to resurface any OEM flywheel you use, so just have yours resurfaced.

FYI, You don't need an upgraded clutch to run a lightweight flywheel.

As far as tools, a 14 socket and wrench. To get the flywheel off you will need a 2 1/8 socket. And a 12 socket for the clutch slave cylinder.

 

I just want to source another one just in case the one in there right now isn't able to be resurfaced. Because it seems this one has been resurfaced once or twice, and I'm afraid there isn't much surface to resurface lol.

And so basically all I need to bring to the junkyard is 12cm and 14cm socket, as well as a 2' 1/8" and an impact wrench? Will I be able to get the drive shaft off too? (Sorry, totally my first time even messing with a car :P)

And I will be able to replace clutch and flywheel under the car without pulling the engine correct?

 

I think that's it, you will have to remove the exhaust. Remove the driveshaft, remove the heat sheilding, remove the clutch slave cylinder and then drop the starter and the trans. You may need 10mm for the exhaust shield bolts.

Bring a prybar as well, you may have to use it to crack the trans off.

 

Thank you!

I have one other quick question. I went under the car to look for myself, but where the bell housing and engine bolt together, I only see two bolts on the bottom side, but I'm sure there are a couple more at the top but I can't see it from under the car. How do I access it? When I take the shifter boot off and stuff from the inside?

 

you have to disconnect the clutch lines from the body and unbolt the slave cylinder also to get to the ones on top, theyre actually an easy trans. to remove, haha

 

One of those bolts is actually holding the starter on, and the trans bolt hides behind the starter.

One of the trans bolt is long and has a nut on the back side, you can access the nut from the top or the bottom.

There are 5 in total bolts that hold the trans to the engine, two on the bottonm, one on the very top, and then one on each side near the top. the lowest 4 can be accessed underneath, the very top one is best taken of above. Unless you have a lot of extensions. That one may need a wrench with the extra wrench trick.

 

I have two clutch kits in mind from Exedy, one is their normal OEM replacement kit and the other is their stage 1 organic clutch. I don't really want to spend $250 on a clutch right now, BUT if it is worth it I mind as well. My 7 has no mods on it what so ever and I plan to keep it that way for now since it is a dd. And I plan to get another to work on for mods. So would the OEM replacement kit suffice? Or does the organic clutch help start off better? (I mean sometimes I do like to out run people from a red light when they think they're all tough and bad when they are only on a civic)

 

OEM replacement will be fine.

 

just a little hint, you might want to bright a 3 or 4 lb sledge hammer to get the flywheel off. once you get the 2 1/8" nut off, the flywheel is pressed in. The easiest way for me to get the flywheel off is the hit it lightly with the sledge hammer. it pops right off. just make sure you thread the nut back on a little to catch it, its a heavy s.o.b.

 

Friday I replaced my TII trans with a slightly better condition one, also to inspect my clutch, flywheel, and PP (Exedy 4 puck sprung). I only had the car probably 16" off the ground (from bottom door to ground) and it was slightly to low to fit the transmission out from under the car, but if you look by the front wheel, theres the soft skirting you can slide the front bell housing out through, it barely fits but just rotate it out that way since the back can fit out normally.

Also make sure you have a clutch alignment tool or your gonna spend all day with a few people trying to line the thing up. It took me 30 minutes to get the transmission out from the time I had it on the stands (2 people), and 2 hours to get it in (pain in the ***) with 3 people.

Pretty much once the transmission shaft is aligned and basically snug against the engine, it takes about 20 minutes to finish.

However, i did NOT need to resurface my flywheel so I didn't take it off, I hear its a PITA though. However I believe the flywheel is 44 pounds? (correction anyone?) and if it falls on you, you will never want to see it again. (pressure plate hit me in the cheek when I took it off, thats around 12 pounds, I'll never do that **** again).

 

OE clutches work fine. i have a cheapo generic OE clutch replacement that is holding over 325WHP still after 35k miles in my T2. $185 for a cheapo kragen clutch that is holding up, funny thing is i have seen stage 2 "spec" name brand clutches give out at just about the same power level that were basically brand new and were rated at 450RWTQ.