Frostycrowd

iTrader: (9)

The test port that is suppose to read 12v is not reading 12v. It was when I was checking it and then I accidently crossed a wire and zapped it. now it reads less then a volt. Feel retarded but crap happens, now I need to fix it. It is a yellow wire with a stripe. IS there a fuse linked in somewhere?

and on a side note: which wire on the trailing coil harness is responsible for sending tach signal?

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like you fried the ignitor.

Wait...the Yellow/Blue wire is the signal to the tach. Is this the one you shorted?

There is no "tach signal" sent to the trailing. There is a trigger and toggle signal sent by the ECU.

HAILERS

You done ruint that darn thing. You NEVER ground the test connector on the Trail or Lead coil assy's. EVER. It is the same wire that feeds the tach. If the tach does not work NOW, then get another trail coil assy and promise to never gnd the test connector again.

You might see if the trail plugs still fire. If so *we don't need no stinking tach to drive*.

RETed

There is not "test port".
That female bullet connector is for a tach connection.
I believe the signal is pull-to-ground?
If it is, grounding it doesn't hurt anything.
Shooting +12VDC will blow it.

No, there is no fuse.
You're lucky if the trailings still fire.
Else, you need to replace the whole coil pack to fix the problem.


-Ted

Frostycrowd

iTrader: (9)

First of all I am not concerned about the coils being bad, they are already shot and the tach is not working, that is why I began testing things.

yes, I am talking about the tach connection, which is used to "test" things.

I did not send 12v to it. I tested it before I took the coils out and it read 12v and when I removed the coils I tested it again and it read less then a volt. I never sent power to it, I grounded it out on accident when I was using a multimeter to test it (after removing coils)

Aaron cake I am not refering to a tach signal to the coil, I am refering to the wire in which the tach gets its signal from the trailing. I have Haltech and know about the ignition drivers

I do however appreciate the post,
From the sounds of the post I missunderstood the test port and since the coils are out of the car I suppose it is not suppose to have voltage.

so question is, is the female tach connection suppose to have power when the coils are removed?

HAILERS

The wire has a splice in it. One part goes to the tach, the other goes to the ignitor in the Trail coil assy. Talking the yellow wire with a blue stripe on it. Bullet connector.

Are you saying/asking what the volage on the yellow/blue wire is when the coils are removed from the Trai coil assy and the ignitor is left in place? And the plugs are attached to the trail coil assy?

It's not stated anywhere what the output of the check connector should be at any given time.

The spark/coils work more or less as described in the following article.

http://www.teamfc3s.org/info/articles/demystifying.html

EDIT: Maybe I missed the obvious. There will be no output from the yellow/blue wire if there are no coils firing. Waste of time looking for a tach signal in that case. There has to be an actual firing of the #1 of the coils for a output to happen. I believe the Feedback signal is required like the article says halfway down the page of the http://www.teamfc3s.org/info/articles/demystifying.html

Just an opinion. Take it for what it's worth. Free wiring manual available online.

Frostycrowd

iTrader: (9)

Yea I am wondering what the voltage is suppose to be when the coil assembly with ignitor is completely removed. The FSM says 12v with them there and I thought it needed to be the same without, but I thought it was checking that switched power was going to the coil, and it is not in fact for that reason. the bullit connector is to check the coil and if the coil assembly is not on I guess it can't check anything.

HAILERS

I'm kinda curious because there is something missing in my understanding. You removed the Trail coil assy which consists of the two coils and ignitors. While they were out, you checked the voltage on the yellow/blue wire and saw 12vdc approx.

If so, then that voltage was coming from the Tach itself. No other place to come from. Why does it read less now? Got me.

HAILERS

You might check to see if the METER fuse is blown..........or key to ON and see if the fuel gauge works etc. It's possible you blew it and that's why you don't see the 12vdc anymore. Just a guess.

Frostycrowd

iTrader: (9)

No, I checked it at 12v when the coils where in and then tested it again when the coils where out and there was less then a volt. I thought I blew something, but it seems it can't read voltage without the coils.

Frostycrowd

iTrader: (9)

Okay well I put a known good coil off another car on and the voltage from the tach port is now saying .02 volts. It is not reading 12v as the FSM says it should. What do I do know?

HAILERS

I must have missed it. What part of the factory service manual says the test port/check connector/bullet is supposed to read 12vdc? Personally I've never looked at that bullet connector for voltage.

Frostycrowd

iTrader: (9)

like the 2nd to last page on the engine electrical.

HAILERS

Before I go out and mess with my car in the rain, you do know the ignitor gets it's electrical ground for it's internal circuit, thru its metal chassis and at least one bolt has to hold it to the chassis or there will be no spark or much of any thing. I need an answer to that.

HAILERS

Well, I got wet. No, there is NOT suppossed to be voltage at the black check connector that has the yellow/blue wire going to it. I checked it out myself. Maybe some stray voltage like 0.06vdc which is nothing at all.

I did this on a fully functional 1986 non turbo car who's tack works like a champ and I also used my Fluke to look at the rpms at the small, black, check connector. With the engine running and tach working like a champ, the voltage is something like 0.46vdc which is meanigless imho. My tach works and the Fluke can pick off the rpms on that connector.

Frankly I never use the FSM Engine Electrical section. The diagrams exist and as far as I am concerned that's all I need. My suggestion is to pull your small, white, two wire plug off the coil assy. See if there is batt voltage on the two Black/Yellow wires.

I forget and am too lazy to look. Does your engine run?

HAILERS

If your engine won't start, and you have no spark on either coil, lead or trail, you might look at a thread just below yours that has a title like *I have no spark* or something close to that. His was a buggered up afm killing things. Like the ref voltage used by most sensors and internal ECU use.

http://www.teamfc3s.org/info/articles/demystifying.html

Frostycrowd

iTrader: (9)

Hailer your a good man for checking all that out for me. Yes the coil is bolted down. and since that test port seems useless I guess I will just move on and check that voltage you recommended. the car does start and runs just fine, I am running haltech and it seems without trailing spark it floods alot easier. probably due to my tuning. The leadings are running great and I through a timing light on each wire to check spark and the trailing are deffinetly not sparking.

EDIT: Just checked voltage. 12v at both power wires and 12v at signal wires. I cranked it while checking the voltage of the signal wires and one ignition driver voltage did not change at all while the other one changed rapidly. So I think I found the problem. I am going to trace down that wire to the ecu and make sure it is connected properly.

HAILERS

Maybe it's a HALTECH problem? I'm clueless on how those work.

On the stock trail coil, according to the article I attached somewhere above, you have two sources of power, the black/yellow wires that feed the two coils. Then you have a trigger signal coming from the ECU.......a feedback signal from the ECU......and a Select signal coming from the ECU that decides which of the two coils in the Trail is going to fire. No select signal, no firing. Or no firing of the number one coil equals no firing of the other coil and it comes to a dead end right then and there.

I'd try the TED in a thread above or post in the HALTECH section of this forum.

Seems somewhere on a Haltech site they'd explain how to rig the trail coil assy.

On the flood during start, that should be overcome using the Haltech. At least from my understanding. You should be able to reduce the amount of fuel the injectors inject during Start. How they manipulate that is unknown to me. I know you can do that on a RTEK 2.1 so a Haltech should certainly have that feature...somewhere.

HAILERS

Or try this: http://www.k2rd.com/haltech/drawings/rx7drawings.html

Or PM Mr. J-Rat. I saw where he responded to a Haltech/coil wiring in the Haltech section.

HAILERS

Or try this: http://www.k2rd.com/haltech/drawings/rx7drawings.html

Or PM Mr. J-Rat. I saw where he responded to a Haltech/coil wiring in the Haltech section.

Or try this thread: https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...CH+TRAIL+COILS

Read what the j-rat wrote on that last thread and note the AUX

Frostycrowd

iTrader: (9)

yea I appreciate the help, it has gone from coil problem to haltech problem. Yea I could take fuel out no problem at idle but its been running a year with no problems on the tune so Ill see if I can track the wiring issue.