I have new bushings to install and I'd like to remove the trailing arms. Looking at them, I think it looks pretty straight forward. I'm wondering though about the lateral links. I don't want to replace them unless I have to. How hard is it to get the link undone from the armwithout wrecking that joint?

The little dog-bones that are the inner link of the trailing arm to the sub-frame... I don't suppose those bushings are available are they? Anybody know how much those things are to replace?

Anything else I'm not thinking about?

Thanks,
CW

 

To remove the trailing arms the entire subframe has to drop. Not to the ground but it would be helpful.

That is allot of work. Nothing you can't do in a weekend esp if you have the air tools. If you are dropping the subframe to the ground you might want to consider replacing the diff. mount while it is exposed. And also consider installing a pinon snubber. It costs like 10 bucks. That would help wheel hop.

The lateral links are not hard to get out at all. Just remember they are not the same. Each end is actually different. If you mess that up you might end up having to cut it out because it will get stuck. Don't ask how I know that

If you hear a creaking noise when you are going slow in a parking lot it is the lil dog bone sub links you mentioned. The lateral links and sublinks simply have to be replaced. You can't R&R. If you have the money I would say replace it all. But your looking at $400+ to do that.

And while your in there you should just do the DTSS bushings

And after all that work you will need an alignment. Maybe not so much if you mark the plates on the trailing arm but it would not hurt.

James

 

well, I have the DTSS bushings here to put in along with the trailing arm (front-outer) joint.
I'm not seeing why one couldn't get the arm off without taking the subframe off...care to elaborate?

 

The long bolt that holds the trailing arm in. The head of the bolt is on the outboard and it is very long. It hits the wheel well. You have to drop the subframe enough to slid the bolt out.

You can try cutting the wheel well.

And when you put it back in you COULD put the bolt in the other way. But not sure if that is a good idea but I can't think of why it would not.

James

 

Dern. I see what you're saying. I hadn't figured that out yet. Thanks.
CW

 

James is right, no way to do it without dropping the subframe although i just remove the front subframe nuts and pivot the subframe down enough to get the bolts out and when you put them back in run them in the opposite way so if need be you can remove the arms without dropping the subframe in the future.

 

Guess I'll just be doing the DTSS bushings for now then. I'm already committed to doing brakes, figuring out the high idle, and fixing the PS before she's back on the road... No sense taking on another whole project...if the sub-frame is off, might as well get the dif rebuilt...if I'm gonna do that...and on and on and so forth.

CW

 

 

Silverrotor,
How hard was it to get the bushings out/in? Do you just take the bolt holding the subframe out and pry it down like that?
My car is still apart and I'm wondering whether to do this now or just wait until I am ready to get the dif rebuilt....someday...

CW

 

Ok, that was a bitch.
I got the sub frame to lower like the photo above shows but it was a royal PITA. Camber link needs to come apart to let it down enough. Ended-up taking the whole trailing arm off so I could pound the busing out. The Energy bushings I put in (from Mazda Morotsports) went in by hand.
Now I just have to put it all back together and do the other side...but that's going to be another day.

Cliff notes: if you're going to do the rear bushings, do all of them at once and just drop the whole rear sub assembly...

 

It's good you sorted It out cwaters. I hope my PM was somewhat useful.

 

Man, I would drop the whole subframe and replace the differential mount while you have it apart.

James