SureShot

What is the simplest way to replace the rear trailing arm bushings? The manual describes taking out the whole rear sub-frame, diff and all. Is there maybe a shortcut? I’ve got a jack, 4 stands and 1 day.

Sniper_X

Why are you replacing them..
are they creaking?

SureShot

After about 4 miles of warm up, they clunk & groan with every up/down motion/bump..

Hot_Dog

Unfortunately, there is no possible way to get the front outer bolts out unless you drop/lower the rear subframe. I've bought the urethane trailing arm bushings for my '90 GXL, and attempted to do this same job last Fall while repalcing the rear wheel bearings and installing toe eliminator bushings. After attempting unsuccessfully to remove the front outer trailing arm bolts, I just threw in the towel and called it quits. The problem is that the bolts, which are maybe 6" long or so, fit in such that the nut is on the inside of the frame. When attempting to pull the bolt outwards, there is not enough clearance and the bolt hits the car's body. The subframe needs to be lowered for the bolt to clear the body as it's pulled out. If Mazda had reversed the bolt, such that the nut faced the outside, than the bolt would be easily removable. In any event, removing the trailing arms is a big PITA.

Hot_Dog

SureShot

I wonder if anyone has tried cutting a clearance hole in the sheet metal, or just removing the front subframe mounts and tilting the unit?
Bill

SaabGuy

Just a thought but couldnt you cut the bolt as you are sliding it out and then go get the same size bolt from the hardware store? This thread is interesting because I have poly bushings left over. some of which are the rear joints blabla

SureShot

SaabGuy - My hope is someone has had success with something like that..
Bill

Sniper_X

so the groaning noise is cause by the trailing arm bushings.

Correct?

(I have 3 cars to remedy of this problem)

Hot_Dog

I'm sure that you can cut the bolt, but you'd have to use a welding torch since there's no room to saw it off with a hacksaw. The bolts are special bolts, they are used to adjust the rear toe. They have a flat spot running along their length. A off-center washer, with a hole corresponding to the bolt's shape, fits onto the bolt and into a recessed circular opening on the outside of subframe. By turming the bolt, the eccentricity of the washer allows adjustment of the rear toe.

Hot_Dog

LT1-10AE

I've had the rear subframe out of my car several times now (diff mount, bushings, change diff, etc.) and dropping it is not that difficult. The last time I dropped it, I swapped the diff and axles and from start to finish, it only took me about an hour.

Remove the lower shock mounts
Unbolt the driveshaft
Unbolt the calipers and swing them out of the way (you did take off the wheels didn't you )
Disconnect the camber link
Disconnect the swaybar (and anything else I forgot)
Put a jack under the snout of the diff and remove the two rear diff nuts, the front four subframe nuts and drop

The only tricky part about the whole ordeal is getting the subframe back in. Your best bet is to either have someone help line up the front half of the subframe as you're jacking the unit back up, or use two big floor jacks, one on the diff and one on the subframe.

Also, unless you have a hydraulic press at home, don't bother tackling the bushings yourself.
#1. They're pressed in and need to be pressed out to be properly done.
#2. If you chisel them out, it'll take forever and you could scar the surface where the bushing resides and kill your new bushings prematurely.

My $0.02

SureShot

Sledgehammer, (cool handle) Do you think the old bushings could be cut out with a Roto-zip

Hot_Dog

Can't really tell you with certainty what grade (i.e., hardness) bolt is used. In terms of U.S. grades, I would suspect that it is a grade 5 -- don't really think that they would have used a hard grade 8 bolt. As you've mentioned, it looks like the flat spot was milled along the length of the bolt.

Hot_Dog

LT1-10AE

It could be done, but you're looking at a lot of time. If you want to do it yourself, grab the following tools:

Propane torch
narrow chisel, or better yet, a small round punch
hacksaw or other cutting tool
hammer

Once you get the control arms out, fire up the torch and burn the old bushings out. It will take about 15-20 minutes for each one. Just put the flame right on the rubber part of the bushing and work around the perimiter and the rubber will expand as it's burning and force it's way out. You may have to hammer them out to help them along.

When the bushings are burned out, you'll be left with a metal sleeve that's pressed into place. Take the blade off your hacksaw and feed it through the hole where the bushing was and put the blade back on the hacksaw. Cut *almost* all of the way through the metal sleeve as evenly as you can.

Now, take the chisel or punch and put it between the sleeve and the trailing arm near the cut you made and bang away with a hammer. The cut you made weakend the wall of the sleeve so it will collapse as you chisel at it. Once it's out, lube up the new bushings and pop them in!

Or, for about $30 you can drop them off at just about any machine shop and pick them up later

SureShot

I've got a one piece welded up dual exhaust. That means dropping it, header an all, before I even start.

Silkworm

Burning? Hack Saw? Christ people!

A drill, punch, and hammer.

Use the drill to drill the rubber between outer shell and the sleeve (and separate)..

Use the punch and hammer to tap the lip of the inner sleave outwards, the sleeve will pop out.

Use a vice to press in the new bushing.

You could cut the bolt, I suppose, but just how were you going to get the NEW bolt in there?

It's only a few more bolts to drop the entire subframe, don't cheap your way out here and hack up your car.

PaulC

LT1-10AE

Heh...What are you going to harm with a propane torch? That's comical.

The burning/hacksaw method is quicker and and easier than the other methods I've tried. I've found that drilling them out is a pain, as it leaves too much of the bushing still molded to the sleeve.

But then again, this is a forum for people to discuss how they do the same things differently.

Silkworm

Oh.. Only because it's the nastiest, smelliest, dirtiest thing to do anywhere near a place where you live? That **** STINKS.. Can smell that in your hair for 3 washings!

Hey, if you like that method, more power to you, but the drill worked much better for me (and I did one with a torch, one with a drill)

PaulC

ggyygg88

yo guys how much would a shop charge to install all the suspension bushings. i heard that it would be really expensive for a shop to do it but i really don't have the tools or the mechanical knowlege....

SureShot

With only one jack & no help, I may visit my local alignment shop & see what they say..
Bill