Trailing arm bushings - install question
What is the simplest way to replace the rear trailing arm bushings? The manual describes taking out the whole rear sub-frame, diff and all. Is there maybe a shortcut? I’ve got a jack, 4 stands and 1 day.
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Why are you replacing them..
are they creaking? |
After about 4 miles of warm up, they clunk & groan with every up/down motion/bump..
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Re: Trailing arm bushings - install question
Originally posted by SureShot What is the simplest way to replace the rear trailing arm bushings? The manual describes taking out the whole rear sub-frame, diff and all. Is there maybe a shortcut? I’ve got a jack, 4 stands and 1 day. Hot_Dog |
I wonder if anyone has tried cutting a clearance hole in the sheet metal, or just removing the front subframe mounts and tilting the unit?
Bill |
Just a thought but couldnt you cut the bolt as you are sliding it out and then go get the same size bolt from the hardware store? This thread is interesting because I have poly bushings left over. some of which are the rear joints blabla
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SaabGuy - My hope is someone has had success with something like that..
Bill |
so the groaning noise is cause by the trailing arm bushings.
Correct? (I have 3 cars to remedy of this problem) |
Originally posted by SaabGuy Just a thought but couldnt you cut the bolt as you are sliding it out and then go get the same size bolt from the hardware store? This thread is interesting because I have poly bushings left over. some of which are the rear joints blabla Hot_Dog |
I've had the rear subframe out of my car several times now (diff mount, bushings, change diff, etc.) and dropping it is not that difficult. The last time I dropped it, I swapped the diff and axles and from start to finish, it only took me about an hour.
Remove the lower shock mounts Unbolt the driveshaft Unbolt the calipers and swing them out of the way (you did take off the wheels didn't you:) ) Disconnect the camber link Disconnect the swaybar (and anything else I forgot) Put a jack under the snout of the diff and remove the two rear diff nuts, the front four subframe nuts and drop The only tricky part about the whole ordeal is getting the subframe back in. Your best bet is to either have someone help line up the front half of the subframe as you're jacking the unit back up, or use two big floor jacks, one on the diff and one on the subframe. Also, unless you have a hydraulic press at home, don't bother tackling the bushings yourself. #1. They're pressed in and need to be pressed out to be properly done. #2. If you chisel them out, it'll take forever and you could scar the surface where the bushing resides and kill your new bushings prematurely. My $0.02 |
Sledgehammer, (cool handle) Do you think the old bushings could be cut out with a Roto-zip
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Originally posted by SureShot Sledgehammer, (cool handle) Do you think the old bushings could be cut out with a Roto-zip Hot_Dog |
Originally posted by SureShot Sledgehammer, (cool handle) Do you think the old bushings could be cut out with a Roto-zip Propane torch narrow chisel, or better yet, a small round punch hacksaw or other cutting tool hammer Once you get the control arms out, fire up the torch and burn the old bushings out. It will take about 15-20 minutes for each one. Just put the flame right on the rubber part of the bushing and work around the perimiter and the rubber will expand as it's burning and force it's way out. You may have to hammer them out to help them along. When the bushings are burned out, you'll be left with a metal sleeve that's pressed into place. Take the blade off your hacksaw and feed it through the hole where the bushing was and put the blade back on the hacksaw. Cut *almost* all of the way through the metal sleeve as evenly as you can. Now, take the chisel or punch and put it between the sleeve and the trailing arm near the cut you made and bang away with a hammer. The cut you made weakend the wall of the sleeve so it will collapse as you chisel at it. Once it's out, lube up the new bushings and pop them in! Or, for about $30 you can drop them off at just about any machine shop and pick them up later :D |
I've got a one piece welded up dual exhaust. That means dropping it, header an all, before I even start.
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Burning? Hack Saw? Christ people!
A drill, punch, and hammer. Use the drill to drill the rubber between outer shell and the sleeve (and separate).. Use the punch and hammer to tap the lip of the inner sleave outwards, the sleeve will pop out. Use a vice to press in the new bushing. You could cut the bolt, I suppose, but just how were you going to get the NEW bolt in there? It's only a few more bolts to drop the entire subframe, don't cheap your way out here and hack up your car. PaulC |
Originally posted by Silkworm Burning? Hack Saw? Christ people! The burning/hacksaw method is quicker and and easier than the other methods I've tried. I've found that drilling them out is a pain, as it leaves too much of the bushing still molded to the sleeve. But then again, this is a forum for people to discuss how they do the same things differently. |
Oh.. Only because it's the nastiest, smelliest, dirtiest thing to do anywhere near a place where you live? That shit STINKS.. Can smell that in your hair for 3 washings!
Hey, if you like that method, more power to you, but the drill worked much better for me (and I did one with a torch, one with a drill) PaulC |
yo guys how much would a shop charge to install all the suspension bushings. i heard that it would be really expensive for a shop to do it but i really don't have the tools or the mechanical knowlege....
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With only one jack & no help, I may visit my local alignment shop & see what they say..
Bill |
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