track Brake setup?
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 1,907
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From: Oakville, Ontario
track Brake setup?
Hey guys I have a 91 Coupe with 5 lug and the 4 piston front and 2 piston rear calipers
I'm running Ebc green stuffs and brembo blanks
it seems im overdriving my brakes i can do my usually run which is about 10-15 mins and by the end i have huge brake fade and usually my pads are smoking.... it's worse now that i turbo'd the car
any suggestions? Im running Dot4 brake fluid as well
I'm running Ebc green stuffs and brembo blanks
it seems im overdriving my brakes i can do my usually run which is about 10-15 mins and by the end i have huge brake fade and usually my pads are smoking.... it's worse now that i turbo'd the car
any suggestions? Im running Dot4 brake fluid as well
EBC greens are NOT track pads. You have a couple options -
1 - Brake ducting as mentioned above. Run full ducting from the front fascia to a backing plate that will accept the ducting and direct air into the rotor hat area.
2- Better pads. If you are using EBC green pads I assume you aren't running very sticky tires. Try some Hawk HP+ pads. They work very well with street tires if you don't have a ton of weight or power.
One or both of these will help. Be sure to flush your brake fluid as well.
1 - Brake ducting as mentioned above. Run full ducting from the front fascia to a backing plate that will accept the ducting and direct air into the rotor hat area.
2- Better pads. If you are using EBC green pads I assume you aren't running very sticky tires. Try some Hawk HP+ pads. They work very well with street tires if you don't have a ton of weight or power.
One or both of these will help. Be sure to flush your brake fluid as well.
For some pads that work well on both the street and at the track, try:
- Porterfield R4-S
http://porterfield-brakes.com/manufa...ld+Brakes.html
Depending on your style of driving, you might try the standard R4 compound
in the front or all around. However, these are NOT for the street.
Other than my first few track weekends with stock Mazda pads, I have used
the Porterfields on the street and on the track. I've been doing track days
for about the last 8 years with my '88 GTU. Never really had any problems. I
just made sure the new pads were bedded in properly and I warmed up
and cooled down the brakes around each track session. The rotors are Mazda
stock, although I've contemplated replacing with slotted rotors.
As previously said, be sure to bleed the system or completely flush with
fresh fluid.
R/
John
- Porterfield R4-S
http://porterfield-brakes.com/manufa...ld+Brakes.html
Depending on your style of driving, you might try the standard R4 compound
in the front or all around. However, these are NOT for the street.
Other than my first few track weekends with stock Mazda pads, I have used
the Porterfields on the street and on the track. I've been doing track days
for about the last 8 years with my '88 GTU. Never really had any problems. I
just made sure the new pads were bedded in properly and I warmed up
and cooled down the brakes around each track session. The rotors are Mazda
stock, although I've contemplated replacing with slotted rotors.
As previously said, be sure to bleed the system or completely flush with
fresh fluid.
R/
John
My second time ever at VIR with some V700s I blew my 75% material EBC green stuffs down to the backing plates on all four corners in the first 20-minute run group!
Edit: If you're using sticky tires I'd recommend going straight to hawk blues on the front and something weaker on the back, and using motul 600 fluid, which has the best wet and dry boiling points short of castrol SRF but costs 1/5th the price. Is this a turbo or an NA?
Edit: If you're using sticky tires I'd recommend going straight to hawk blues on the front and something weaker on the back, and using motul 600 fluid, which has the best wet and dry boiling points short of castrol SRF but costs 1/5th the price. Is this a turbo or an NA?
Last edited by Gene; Dec 4, 2009 at 10:19 AM.
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Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2009
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From: Oakville, Ontario
it was an n/a and i could get the pads smoking real easy now its a n/a-T2 and i can fade them in one corner im a very aggresive driver and I am very comfortable pushing the car to the edge
I just took an apex seal out i think maybe just a chunk cause it sounds like its down on a rotor face
ah well 13b rew time
I just took an apex seal out i think maybe just a chunk cause it sounds like its down on a rotor face
ah well 13b rew time
If it's only one rotor face it's probably a side seal.
If you're going to all the trouble of a motor swap consider the cosmo 13b, I think it may be an easier swap and it's got bigger intake ports.
If you're going to all the trouble of a motor swap consider the cosmo 13b, I think it may be an easier swap and it's got bigger intake ports.
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