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Tracing No Crank Electrical Issue

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Old 10-19-05, 09:57 AM
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Tracing No Crank Electrical Issue

Hi,
Here's the situation. I was installing an interrupt toggle switch for a friend on injector fuse on the driver shock tower to help de-flood. In the process of wiring, I accidently exposed this power circuit to a ground, sparks ensued, etc.

I quickly disconnected the battery, got my wiring straight, plugged everything in with my switch in the off position, and turned over the car. Since my switch was off, I was not going to start. I then tried to turn the car over again, but it does not. Even the idiot lights on the dash are no longer illuminating. The car does have power, headlights, interior lights, etc. function.

I thought perhaps the main relay was cooked. Replaced. Nothing. Checked all my fuses, nothing.

What could I have fried?

Thanks,
-jayson
Old 10-19-05, 10:19 AM
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where did you ground what wire??? the drivers shock tower fuse box???

Did you check the fuses with a meter, or with the (often poor) eye ball tester?
Old 10-19-05, 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Icemark
where did you ground what wire??? the drivers shock tower fuse box???

Did you check the fuses with a meter, or with the (often poor) eye ball tester?
well its power going through the EGI Fuse. I had spliced and run two wires off this into the cockpit to hook to a toggle as an interrupt. My toggle was laying on the tranny hump though, grounding out. So when I plugged in the battery, it melted the toggle post.

Thanks for helping me with this Mark.
Old 10-19-05, 11:32 AM
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Headlights work so the Main fuse is good.

No idiot lights? Sounds like no batt feed to the ignition key and or the alt was sizzled. Put your meter on the *B* post of the alt and see if you have battery voltage there. No voltage? Then look for the single black connector about six inches below and coming from the fuse box and see if it's connected up.

If both of those are good then go to the ignition switch leads and find the lead with a black wire and a black/white wire. The black wire should have battery voltage on it. It comes froom the single black connector mentioned above.
Old 10-19-05, 11:54 AM
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Killing the alternator wouldn't prevent starter circuit from functioning, would it?

But yea, I was puzzled by having headlights, horn, etc. But no idiot lights, starter, etc.

I'm going to go work on the car this afternoon - Any other tips greatly appreciated. Trying to get together a pack of spares to take with me.
Old 10-19-05, 02:50 PM
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********Killing the alternator wouldn't prevent starter circuit from functioning, would it?
************************************************** **************************

The IDEA here is........the wire to the *B* terminal on the alt is the same wire as that at the ignition switch. IF you don't have batt voltage at the alt *B* terminal you most likely don't have it at the ignition switch.

The ignition switch feeds the starter.

That circuit to the black wire on the ignition switch can be dead but you will have headlights because the circuit for the headlights is not fed by the ignition switch circuit.

So it makes sense that you can have headlights (proving the Main Fuse is good) but not power to the ignition switch.

Killing the alternator willl kill the idiot light array because the alt will not be putting a ground on the alt relay in the CPU (series four) to cause the idiot light array to light up when the alt is not putting out.

The 12vdc that feeds the alt relay in the CPU comes from the ignition switch thru the meter fuse (pretty sure 'bout that), so if there is no pwr to the ignition switch then the idiot lights won't come on.

You NEED to download the wiring schematics from the online fsm. Life will be easier.

It's easier to make a fuel cut switch from the wiring at the Fuel Cut Relay above the steering column.
Old 10-19-05, 03:50 PM
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....And it all goes 'click' now.


Thanks!!!
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