sublime42o

hey guys ive got a problem with my TPS... at a normal idle the engine revs
between 1400-1600 rpm constantly..... Its not affecting performance or
anything so I wasn't really worried about it. But today I took my car to get
inspected, and the idle problems cept it from being inspected. The
inspector guy at jiffy lube tried it, but with the changing idle and the car
revving itself, it was not possible for him to do an emissions test.....
what should I do? I tried adjusting the TPS according to the manual, and it
did not make any difference. The previous owner of the car said he had
bought a few TPS replacements and they worked for a couple months then quit
working again. Am I just going to have to buy a new TPS so that it will
temporarily work and I can pass inspection?? It costs $326.47 from mazdatrix!! too much ahh!!

THANKS!!!

-Tom


oh yeah and i could just pay somebody off and get passed without emissions... but i need the emissions read outs so i can show my dad that my cat is dead and needs to be replaced with a bonez superflo :-)

ducetius

check for vacuum leaks, intake leaks, adjust tps before thinking about buying anything.
I believe this is a vacuum leak because my S5 TII had the same prob.

silverrotor

iTrader: (1)

$327usd? I bought mine for under $200 can form Dealership, before discount.

I just looked under Mazdatrix' site. You've been told wrong. http://www.mazdatrix.com/c-6.htm

sublime42o

89-91 NA TPS is $326 on that site!

thanks ill check the vaccum lines

Detriuch

iTrader: (1)

yea check your leaks man. my friends 89 gxl did they same we had the idle as low as it could go. but he had a few vaccum leaks and a leak in his intake manifold. and the maf cant account for that. so that what caused his high idle

sublime42o

same thing could be wrong to cause rapid idle change from 1400-1600 rpm?

Spawn VII

you know... i have the same problem... i fixed the jumping by screwing in the bac screw all the way in... not that it's really fixed, but leads me to think something's wrong in that area... it MIGHT be that hose that goes from the IC to one of those valves....

sublime42o

where is the BAC screw?? my manual hasnt come in the mail yet... what is the IC?? intercooler? if so i dont have an intercooler.

ducetius

The cycling is caused by the ECU detecting more air in the system then either the throttle position sensor or the mass air flow sensor tells it. So you either have problem sensors or extra air. too much air is relatively cheap to fix, takes time but if you are here you should already love getting under the hood of your RX, sensors you can test but fixing is $$$.

When you turn the screw on the bac you are basically just controlling the amount of air bypassing the throttle plates . if you have cycling with a smaller vacuum leak you can usually compensate with this. if you have a bigger leak then you will still cycle even with the bypass completly closed off. But you car runs better with no leaks so why not fix the problem.

The extra air can come from vacuum leaks, intake leaks, sticky BAC. Search the forum for advice on finding and fixing these probs

While you are waiting for your FSM just use the online versions.

http://www.teamfc3s.org/main/factory_service_manual/

sublime42o

i was looking under my hood last night and noticed that the lines coming from the air pump to the actuators for my 6 ports are missing. I didn't think my 6 ports were working...... it looks like they connect to the bottom of the 6 port actuators... i can see the remains of an old broken on line on one of the nubs. Could this cause my idle? i dont think it would... but either way i need to fix it.

ducetius

I think the 6pi actuators connect to the air pump so it doesn't look like this is the prob, but you should fix it anyway. there are quite a few lines though so best to use either flammable spray (the engine speeds up when you spray near a leak) or listen for leaks with a piece of vacuum tube.

sublime42o

listen for leaks with a piece of vacuum tube??

HAILERS

On the front of your n/a, you have three *vac* hose. Only one is having a vacuum pulled on it from the dynamic chamber. Its one of the small lines. If the two small lines are crossed, you get a strange idle, if it will idle at all. The one that is pulling a vac From the dynamic chamber, should be making its way to the left side of the engine. It supplies vac to the solenoids. The large *vac* line supplies fresh filtered air to the oil injector spider, and the third small line supplies fresh filtered air to the fuel injector air bleeds.

So either swap the two small lines or find the nipple on the chamber that is actually supplying a vacuum, and attach it to the line that goes to the solenoid valves.

Could be the problem. Might not be the problem. Look for leaks spraying starter fluid around the hoses. Avoid spraying into the intake for long periods of time because it causes detonation.