krazydru784

ok so my idle is still shitty after all my troubleshooting...here the situation. my idle was bad wen i got my car back up and it seems that my safc II setting was on hot wire instead of flapper...that y my afm readings were so off..so i fixed that..also it was set on 6 cylinder instead of 4..fixed that..i checked my tps as it was reallyt low..lik .4 volts...thats off my safc reading..so i took off my intercooler..and do the ohm setting on it...isit the reading supposed to be 1v=1k ohms? because when i set it at 1k ohms my safc is reading lik 1.3-1.4 volts...first off is this off...well assuming the safc was right..i set the tps at about 1.3 volts...it was warmed up..but not scorching hot...seemed to idle better...then i took it out for a 20 minute freeway drive..wen i got bak on sidestreets the idle was shitty...barely keeping above 700.. i checked my tps and it was down to .9 volts...is my tps juss messed up? should it drop nearly .5 volts juss from getting warmer? everything else seemed to be in spec with it lik it would go up 5 volts smoothely etc...and my vacuum on my boost gauge also reads -10..nowhere near -20 ever..it used to be around -14-16..im thinking it may juss be a vacuum leak now..but ive checked all visible ones...u guys think it could be my tps..? or should i take off my uim and check all the hoses down there? also my idle is like this wen my bac is all the way open and im running the richest...o yea its a 88 TII..sorry for the long post.

Cosmo Donk

Have you measured the resistance of your TPS to see if there are any spikes?

krazydru784

yup..its seems smooth from 1k-5k ohms..i actually set the tps by using the reistance method

SureShot

When I set the TPS, I push the fast idle cam back (at the thermowax plunger) with a screwdriver to make sure the throttle is sitting on the hard idle stop.
It saves having to warm up the motor.

wozzoom

Bingo! We have a winner. You can't set the TPS unless the car is warm or you move the fast idle cam. That's why it changed so much.

HAILERS

Dittos to all the above. When cold the tps reading on a safc will read close to two volts.....and drop when the water temp gets hot and should reside at approx one volt when the car is fully warmed up. Post ***** here.

krazydru784

well wen i set it i thought it was pretty warmed up...i drove it around for a decent amount of time. and my temps were up..then i shut down the car..may have waited about 10 mintues..then set it..i suppose when i went on the 30 min dirve it was warmer then before? but regardless my tps was still near 1.0 volts on the safc while being much higher then 1k ohms on my reading..y is this off?

HAILERS

The FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL (FSM), states in the CONTROL UNIT section, that the output of the TPS, with the car at idle, should be APPROX 1 VOLT. That's good enough for me and MAZDA. It should be good enough for the rest of the world.

JKM

One thing...you can't let it sit. After driving it around a bit, you need to pop the hood open and set it RIGHT NOW. Even if you do it right then, if it takes you too long to do the adjustment it may not be right. That's why you usually need to drive, set tps, drive again, set again a few times to get it just right.

It took me 3 tries to get mine set perfectly.

HAILERS

Yo. Just let the car idle and use a long asrse screwdriver so you don't have to remove the intercooler. OOOps, watch out for the alternator output terminal if you do that. I popped my main fuse doing that, so be careful.

By the way, there is nothing wrong with .9v or 1.05 volts. Like the manual says *APPROX*. It's in the FSM.

krazydru784

hmm sounds good..but im beginning to think its a vacuum leak under the uim more and more thats killing my idle...i can hear a sucking sound from around there...im pretty sure that its not normal.