vl4bad

Hello

Ive acquired a clean turbo 2 thats in great condition from a friend.

The car sat for 2-3 years and I'm reviving it.
I've been trying to get this car started the past few days.

Upgrades: Rebuilt 13b j-spec (not sure if ported)
Racing beat version 1 exhaust
Greddy FMIC/piping
Greddy profec boost controller
Greddy Emanage Ultimate


the car is relatively stock. I'm trying to get it started and the car cranks but doesn't turn over. Ive been troubleshooting, the Buzzer on the dash doesn't STFU after the key has been in the on position after 15-30 seconds. i tried push starting and no luck, only a small amount of smoke came out of the exhaust. and I'm wondering if it is maybe something to do with the Greddy Emanage. I have no experience what so ever with tuning but I've watched it before and i know how fragile it is to the engine. every parameter matters and has to be done correctly or pop goes the motor. Im wondering if anyone here has experience with this and would give me some advice and or help maybe helping me throughout the hoops of tuning this or looking at it or even getting the car to just start and idle AT LEAST. Ive turned it over by hand and by ignition and the engine will crank but will not try to start. Ive resorted to rx7club because this place is awesome and i love my rx7 so i want to actually get this thing started and start driving it. any advice is welcome, I'm not a noob to rx7's I just blew my motor on my FC 6port gt45 turbo build due to a waste gate failure, car was fully built minus the n/a crap. but now that i have a turbo 2 I'm looking to make this my daily driver for now and not blow up another motor lolol

Things I've looked over:

-Charged my battery to a full charge(6-24-15)
-Alarm system key FOB is working
-Checked fuses by eye, will get a tester soon.
-Checked for spark which I have but confused to which plug wires go where for each coil pack( maybe this is simply it)
-Replaced fuel filter with a new one, even though after testing the old one that worked good. (thought it would be good to have a new one anyway)(6-25-15)
-Checked all sensors were plugged in, the oil sensor has a connector next to it that is just alone, has a red/black wire going into it & the sensor on the oil pan has a black cover on it that is kind of loose, maybe I need a new one? Or its just a cover for the actual sensor and is fine?
-Why wouldn't I have air? Idk if that even makes sense lol
-I will do an oil change and coolant flush tomorrow (6-25-15)
-I don't know if maybe its the TPS needing to be adjusted?? haven't learned how to do that yet


The bottom line is, I need help tuning the Greddy ultimate E-manage, or getting this car to start up. It was running prior to me buying in 2011. Thank you.

MickeytFC

iTrader: (1)

Start with spark. The plug wires are labeled on the coils. T1/T2 etc. The front box is the leading coil and the rear (toward the firewall) is for trailing.

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

Does it have compression or does it sound like a sewing machine when cranking?
Many times when a rotary sits it needs some help to raise the compression, e.g. ATF
into the engine. Some say they have problems with using the ATF, but at the dealership
they did it for years and on our '88TII, when it would sit all winter, there would be a no
start in the spring, but after a few squirts into each leading spark plug hole, it fired right up
and was fine. This was car with only 14,000 miles and needed help.
This is not used to clean the engine, or to eliminate a flooding condition, just to build compression.

S2-13BT

I'd replace the fuel too.

2 years is too long.

vl4bad

it has compression maybe no enough, so ill take a trip to auto zone and buy ATF..
and idk what a sewing machine sounds like lol

so the front box i would connect t1 to the top plug and t2 to the bottom plug on the front set of plugs, and same for rear? this is a stupid noob question -__-

Nick_d_TII

iTrader: (6)

One is marked T (trailing) and L (Leading). Leading coil goes to bottom(L), Trailing coil goes to top(T). 1 is front rotor, 2 is rear rotor.



Sorry for the huge image, it was the first one I found..

vl4bad

I checked the plugs and they're all good. I tried to start the car today and still didn't start. Idk what to do. I have fuel and spark I don't know why it won't start

And that stupid buzzer noise in the cabin won't shut off after 10-20 seconds it turns on.
I filled my coolant up. My oil level is full. Idk this car is really getting me pissed I've had it for almost 2 weeks and still no progress. Car cranks but doesn't sound like it's even trying to turn over.

lduley

iTrader: (1)

Whats your compression #'s? Just cause the "woosh" sounds good doesn't mean its good enough to go up up and away

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

starting fluid

no start issues are usually misplaced plug wires, old rotten gas, no fuel pressure or no spark.

everyone sais they have fuel, most are in fact wrong or the fuel they are trying to burn is garbage. if it attempts to start on starting fluid then you will have a hint of the problem.

vl4bad

Ok I used sea foam and the car tries to almost start, like the Rpms go up a bit and then it just does and continues to go up again and dies. I know the deflood method with the fuse. But it's attempting to start but doesn't...
When it was trying to start white smoke came out of the exhausts. I know it's from the sea foam and will clear but

where am I at now?

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

seafoam isn't a compression aid, ATF is barely a compression aid but it works most of the time. not sure who recommended seafoam to start a flooded or low compression engine but i wouldn't waste the time or money on it when cheaper materials work better.

pull the plugs out, clean them with starter fluid and leave them out. remove the EGI fuse and crank the engine for 20 seconds and let it rest for 20, rinse and repeat until no vapors are coming from the engine(usually 3-4 tries). put about a tablespoon of ATF or marvel mystery oil into each leading plug hole(preferrably with an oil squirt can, 2-3 shots should be good) and reinstall the plugs and wires.

now reinstall the EGI fuse, apply about 15-20% throttle, cross your fingers and turn the key.

S2-13BT

Did you drain the fuel and put fresh stuff in?

vl4bad

Atf as in auto trans fluid right? Lol

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

yep

vl4bad

Update:

I did the atf procedure and the car cold started for a few seconds and ten died. In the process for some weird reason, I tried holding throttle open and the pedal didn't feel the way it's suppose to, so I checked my throttle body and the butterfly's were barely opening, when I opened throttle by hand while looking at it, the butterfly's were barely opening but when I pulled the more specific part that opens those (the part with the spring and rod) it opened just fine. It's sticking I think. What do you think maybe it needs lube/grease, if I'm correct and it does what would I purchase to apply for that to stop the sticking?

Good news is the car actually started after the ATF and I heard the idle for a split second for the first time, definitely motivation. Thanks!

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

i can't really tell by the description, there's quite a lot of linkage on the throttle body.

if the car is an S4 1986-1988 you can actually apply full throttle while cranking to see if that helps more.

vl4bad

This is the only photo I have on my phone, it's on that side of the throttle body I circled it. It has a spring around the part that moves when throttle opens and it controls the butterfly's opening up. When I use the pedal it like sticks, and if I do it by hand I can make it fully open but it feels as if it's sticking or something like that...

vl4bad

update: so whenever i try to get the car started, the car will crank and fire and turn on for about 2 seconds it goes to cold start's highest RPM (around 2k) and then just dies out or pulses on off, slowly going up to 2k then back down to 0. i had my mothers car with jumper cables hooked up to my battery to insure a good battery charge that wouldn't drop... the car back fired pretty loud one time and then the white smoke everywhere thing was happening but it wasn't for that long i tried to crank it like that and it bounced up and down like that for about 15 seconds. what now? should i continue to do the ATF a few times? or do i diagnose something else not allowing it to stay on and idle? ALSO the idiot buzzer and idiot cluster, all the lights are on and that stupid buzzer comes on about 15-20 seconds in with the key on...i filled coolant i have fresh oil waiting to be changed once the car will start...now what??

almost forgot to say, i had my fiancé in the drivers seat trying to start the car while i mess with the throttle body by hand to insure the pedal thing wouldn't cause a problem of starting.....now what??

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

the secondary butterfly shouldn't really be an issue but you can lubricate that plunger/slide so that it works freely, it is supposed to have a slight delay but it should open when you open the throttle so that is an issue.

the white smoke is from the ATF, don't really worry too much about that for now, it'll burn off.

for the start and stall condition it may be the ECU needs some tweaking, if the engine isn't getting enough fuel then it will hunt and stall like you describe. check the fuel pressure and if that is ok then you may want to look into trying to tweak the ECU to richen up the mixture. this all assuming you drained the old gas and put fresh fuel in, if not then start there.

vl4bad

i have GReddy emanage ultimate, if i can just plug in my laptop to it, i could probably mess with it, i just checked my plugs again and the rear plugs get oil/gas on them, front are good...

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

if the rear is wet and oily try replacing the rear leading plug. if it's fouled then it won't run properly.

vl4bad

well today i went out there and tried to get everything started, and now the car doesn't even try to fire up, it just cranks forever. I'm losing faith in this car. i want it to just idle I'm not asking to go down a 1/4 mile or drift a few turns. JUST IDLE ALREADY.

vl4bad

so the car will only start if i use starter fluid in the intake... I've done the ATF method, new spark plugs, and now when i turn it by hand it doesn't sound like it has much compression anymore compared to before i tried the ATF....so does this mean rebuild :/ I'm guessing some of the seals are stuck or something like that, because it was a rebuilt engine and sat for way too long. damn.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

flooding an engine or cranking it dry for long periods can cause compression to drop, i wouldn't give up just yet. but did you answer as to whether you replaced the fuel in the tank yet?

even if there was only 2-3 gallons of old fuel in the tank and you topped it off with 5 gallons of fresh fuel, that still isn't good enough.

vl4bad

the car didn't have any gas in it when i got it, i put in 2 gallons and already burned through that trying to start it and filled it again with another 2 gallons.. i never tried draining any fuel since it was on E

whenever i spray starter fluid into the intake the car will start up for a second or two, or 3-5 seconds and then just dies even if i apply throttle..which the butterflies got even more screwy and stick more since I've sprayed the starter fluid into the throttle body intake..