JDM s5 here...


I wired up my Apexi AVC-R boost controller today.. 1 reason being to do the TPS adjustment using the Voltage from ECU method...


but unfortunately.. it's not working correctly


i can't get less than 1.1 volts... or more than 3.8v

according to the AVC-R... i can't go 0% throttle... or more than 90 something %


if i move the TPS manually.. I can achieve the 0-100 sweep... but it seems the TB can't push the TPS in far enough.. or pull it out...


also the TPS it's reading this signal from.. is the further back of the Two... which is the unadjustable one.. :S


Is it supposed to be like this? and the AVC-R just needs re-calibration? or what..


i have a slight hesitation problem...

when i'm using Very VERY light partial throttle... the ecu thinks i'm decelerating and it cuts off the injectors completely (Inj Duty cycle reads 0 on the AVC-R) and the car makes a Grrrr kinda sound... when i let the throttle go completely.. or Press the throttle a little more.. the hesitation is gone...



and also.. I tried wiring up the speed signal.. but the Cruise control Connector is diff on the JDM model.. i have way less pins than in the Wiring diagram on the apexi site...


anyone know which wire is the speed wire for the JDM FC?

 

hmm this could help me out too, i had a tps problem too and i too couldnt get it within specs when i had it all the way down or at a complete idle, but i was close :P

 

anyone?

 

Perfectly normal. The ECU cuts the fuel injectos when the throttle is closed, and it cuts one rotor just before the other to make this process a little smoother. If you're gentle with the throttle you can get it to sit on just one rotor, which is the noise you hear.

Green with a red stripe.

Not sure about the TPS thing sorry. The FSM says you should see ~0.8V closed and ~4.3V open.

 

thanks for the help as always NZ... when it comes to JDM motors you da man


so it's supposed to do this? or is there a way i can iron it out?


is this wire on the Piggy back CC box on the side of the ecu? or one of the 3 main connectors?





it is supposed to be read from the further back(towards the firewall) of the 2 TPS?

or is the AVC-R "looking" at the wrong TPS?

 

I always wondered why the engine sounded like that. Very interesting. Thanks.

I think this might be normal. I don't have a S5 but I have a S5 TB and TPS assembly. I have S4 Throttle sensors on the S5 TPS bracket. I think they are the same as the S5 ones anyways.

I don't get less then 1.23v at idle and no higher then 3.965 at WOT. The Narrow range is a different story.

You will not see 0%. Remember the AVC-R is pre-programmed for throttle sensors that are 1v-5v, and other variations. So if you are seeing 1.1v, you may see a reading of 3% or something like that. For it not going to 100%, I would re-calibrate it. Mine goes to 100%, infact I had to recalibrate it a few months ago cause it went to 100% at around 90% throttle, probubly a screw up on my end when i put it in last year.

BTW, I had to go start my car to get that info from the SAFC, and when i did, the one and only time, it idled rough and sputtered here and there till the timing advanced and it was smooth after that. Once it warmed up fully it was fine too, never done that before...
THANKS FOR BREAKING MY ENGINE!!!!!!

 

It's part of the ECU code, so you can't change it. Remember the injector cut would most likely be even less smooth without it. It's a bit of a crude technique, but then we are talking about a 20yo system.

What makes you think that's part of the cruise control? That box is still a complete mystery to me. On my S4 the cruise control computer is the big shiny anodised metal box to the left of ECU. It looks the same as the US-spec one, it's just in a different place.

It should be reading the full-range signal. I haven't got a pic of a S5 TPS to look at, but the narrow-range TPS is actuated by a lever on the TB linkage, and has a green/red wire; the full-range TPS is actuated by a cam and has a black/signal wire. Both also have a brown/white wire and a brown/black wire.

 

A couple years ago I was playing around with the TPS and I think.....if I remember, if I adjusted the TPS to about 1.10Kohm (S4 TB and TPS) the cutout was not as rough and I would be able to be off the gas till about 1200-1300 before it started hopping around. Right now its around 1800. I think this also has a negitive effect some where so I ended up changing it back. Can't remember what it was though.

Though I would share