TPS Problems S4 TII
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TPS Problems S4 TII
So since I purchased my TurboII its had a relatively high idle at some times (750 some days and others 1500-1800) and at high rpm with mid to full boost will hesitate at some points on occasion, I figured while I was purchasing some parts I stopped by BanziaRacing's website to pick up one of there TPS adjustment lights.
Got that thing hooked up, and nothing, turned full out and full in no lights what so ever, searched the club for a bit and found nothing about these things not working, So figured id break out the multimeter and have at it, the TPS after adjusting the screw almost fully out I can get it to read 2 Ohms at closed and at WOT its at like 10 Ohms! I guess that explains my hesitations?
So two questions
1 is there anything im missing, I followed the FC3Spro TPS adjustment exactly so I am assuming the TPS is toast
2 can you buy these new from anywhere, remanufactured or rebuilt? what is the case when one of these takes a ****?
Thanks
Matt
Got that thing hooked up, and nothing, turned full out and full in no lights what so ever, searched the club for a bit and found nothing about these things not working, So figured id break out the multimeter and have at it, the TPS after adjusting the screw almost fully out I can get it to read 2 Ohms at closed and at WOT its at like 10 Ohms! I guess that explains my hesitations?
So two questions
1 is there anything im missing, I followed the FC3Spro TPS adjustment exactly so I am assuming the TPS is toast
2 can you buy these new from anywhere, remanufactured or rebuilt? what is the case when one of these takes a ****?
Thanks
Matt
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New TPS cost $230 from Mazdatrix (http://www.mazdatrix.com/getprice.as...=18-911A-N326), but you can get a good used one from a forum member. I picked one up that came off of a jspec motor, so it likely had a lot less use than others you might find.
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Sweet thanks for the info, that is a bit pricy though, Ill look for something used for a bit before i bit that bullet
Last time I dug into it the only way I could even get close to 1 ohm was backing the screw out to its last thread and it was still reading a hair under 2 ohms up to 10 ohms on WOT, I figured being close would help but instead it fixed my high idle, high rpm hesitation, but added low throttle bucking and odd throttle transitions that make it seem like I cant drive
Matt
Last time I dug into it the only way I could even get close to 1 ohm was backing the screw out to its last thread and it was still reading a hair under 2 ohms up to 10 ohms on WOT, I figured being close would help but instead it fixed my high idle, high rpm hesitation, but added low throttle bucking and odd throttle transitions that make it seem like I cant drive
Matt
#4
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You want to adjust the screw until the top pin on the TPS plug (3 wires) reads 1.0 volts. Do this only when the engine is warm, and the key is turned to "ON." It doesn't have to be running, and you can ground the multimeter on the battery. Resistance value can be erratic, and half the time I can't get them to read correctly with a multimeter, so voltage is easiest.
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If I didnt have such good self control I would have thrown that multimeter through the wall when I relized it wasnt zeroed out.........
full closed at 1 ohm WOT at ~6 Ohms, about to take it for a spin
remember kids, dont smoke crack
full closed at 1 ohm WOT at ~6 Ohms, about to take it for a spin
remember kids, dont smoke crack
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